you can get an aftermarket keyless entry for our cars pretty easily and cheap from ebay
some of these include factory alarm arm and disarm which is very easy to do, but for those that don't, it is a little bit more work to make it work
you will need to add a diode (it only allows current/voltage to flow in one direction); I'm not sure of a exact part number (I have used ones that say 1N4007 before), but if you ask someone at a electronics store, they should know if you tell them that's it for automotive use
anyway, for the lock output coming from the keyless entry unit, you can just splice a wire directly to the Nissan alarm arm wire with no problems
now for the unlock and disarm is where you need the diode, if you just wired it the same way as the lock/arm, someone would be able to break a window, press the unlock button on the drivers control panel and that would disarm the alarm
the keyless entry will have an output for unlock which you connect to the car's unlock wire, splice a wire from that wire to the alarm disarm wire, you will need to have a diode between where you have connected the Nissan unlock wire to the unlock out from your keyless entry

...........______|-->|_____Xnissan unlock wire
__________/________________Xnissan disarm wire

the lines represent the wires coming from the keyless entry unlock output, the |-->| is the diode showing that current can go the the right only (your diode will have a stripe at one end, this is the end with the arrow in my drawing), the dots are just there for text formatting purposes
where it says Xnissan wire, thats where you connect it to the stock wiring for either unlock or disarm
now, you will be able to lock your car and arm it with remote and unlock with disarm
email me if you have any questions and the wire colors you need are on my site (click on my car); be sure to check all wires first because they should be right, but I've had a few people tell me that some aren't

 

here is a diagram showing a good way to put a diode between two wires
<img src="http://crimestopper.com/TechEzines/Resistor.gif">
it's best to solder where it says, but you may be able to get away with just wrapping it around tightly and taping or wire nut it if you're really lazy or dont like soldering

 

awesome dude! i cant wait to get this thing installed this weekend! Good description, made total sense. Basically im splicing the unlock wire with the keyless unit unlock wire, and then splicing the alarm disable wire into the unlock wire wire, and just put a diode on the car unlock wire somewhere, does it matter where? your drawings cool, but ill try my own just to make perfectly clear.... Hows that look? anyways talk to ya later, Brandon

 

yup, that picture is exactly what you need to do. I was gonna do a nice drawing like that in Paint, but I got too lazy =). The diode just needs to be there to prevent the current from going from the unlock to the disarm when you dont' want it to so it should go after the wires split like you have in your drawing. I'm sure you probably know this, but you missed 2 splicing points on your drawing where the wires from the unit split and go to alarm and locking wires; just wanted to make sure. ICQ/IM/email me if you need any more help.

 

cool! yea i thought of showing the splicing points on the unlock wire, but figured its all good, just need to show te wire is being split in two. Gonna go grab some breakfast and ill go on icq...

 

Hey its mee again Anyways thought id just make it easier on myself and be the lazy idiot that i am and take pictures of the wires down there, and you could just help me out with the best locations to splice em at and all. Hehe i dont want to seem like some helpless moron, but hey i might as well reduce the install time by not going through all the wires and figuring em out, and itd just be easier to know which exact ones they are.. anyways if you could help me out, id appreciate it, thank you!

Here they are...







this ones not to clear, but i made marking on the pic...



there they are. Install goes down tommarrow!

 

and last but not least, here id a closer pic of what i bought BTW, it does have a 2nd out put buy holding down the lock button, it has dedicated panic, and trunk and then another output for whatever.

 

the two lower blue lines are pointing to the ignition harness which you will need for power and accessory (ignition power)
the gold box on the left is the security where you will find arm/disarm; the gold box on right is ASCD (cruise control) I believe so don't worry about that
I forgot that your car doesn't have a door lock timer so check the wires in the little box in front of the ASCD and maybe there's something there, but if not, you may have to go to the keypad entry unit which is another gold box which is located behind the right side of the glove box up against the side of the car for lock/unlock
for trunk, you will have to take off the drivers side kick panel (one screw and one thing that pops out,but you need to take off the door sill first) there is a huge bunch of wires there and maybe you can find the right one in there, but I couldn't so I took off the door sills for front and back on drivers side and got the trunck wire from back underneath the rear seat and just ran a wire back up under the door sills

Good luck

 

Yo guys?! I needed that info last week when I attempted to install mine. I am having that problem with the unlock/disarm part. Is it possible to connect one of the outputs on the remote system to put the windows down?? I aslo want to install a power trunk release. is all this possible? thanks guys.

 

GEEEEEEBBUS... well the whole day down, and 2/3rds done. Got the doors down, and now the trunk is left, and wow can i say, PAIN IN THE ***!!! The biggest problem and really about the only problem, was that the wiring info was completely wrong! At least for my car it was, and i dunno if its becuase of year or trimline, but dayyyum we had to go through and test almost every wire to see which functions they did. THe only thing the same as the sheet was the parking lights, oh and the ignition wires, and thats it. I had to take both sides of my car apart, glove box off and stuff. We ended up doing the locks throught the keyless entry on the passenger side, and just about everything else including alarm on the other side. We managed to find the trunk in the keyless entry side, so we will do the trunk on the passenger side too. Whats interesting though is that it has a negative pulse to activate it, but we didnt connct it up because my dad didnt know whether the relay still needed to be used becasue the soloniod still might have needed more power then the keyless put out. And it wasnt brown, it was light green with a black stripe. And no thats not the alarm wire, alarm active is green! ( i think or its yelloe, i might be getting em confused, ill check later, wrote it down , too lazy to get it.) IT was gettin late so we said screw the trunk, but we got the doors hooked up. Things left undone are we didnt hook up the horn, too late, the trunk, and dome light. WE found the wire for the cool beep noise of the keypad so i wanna hook it up to the thing so it makes that beep instaid of the horn when i lock/unlock. As for the windows, we didnt accidently come across them, i dunno whats involved in that, im not even gonna worry bout it. Im just happy my keyless entry works, and next week the trunk will work too, were going for round #2, hehe. What a pain in the but though, that the wires werent the same as on the sheets, both, craigs wiring sheet and matts wiring sheet. odd. BUt i appreciate all of the help you guys gave me. Thanks!

 

brandon - sorry about all the confusion with the wires; the colors were right with my car and some others I've talked to; at least you got it working
that's weird that you found a trunk release with a - signal; I guess that's how it's controlled with keyless entry

daboxgti-if you have a GXE, you may be able to find the - trigger for the trunk in the nissan keyless entry harness; otherwise, you will have to add a relay because most alarms will give you a - output for trunk, but our car needs a +
you can get a relay for $2 or $3 at Radio Shack or somewhere like that. It's just a standard 12V relay (SPST if they are labeled).
if you look at my site in the how to section, there is a thing about relays; look at that for position of pins
you will need to wire them as follows
85: constant power
86: negative output from your aftermarket alarm unit
30: constant power (can be wired into same wire as 85)
87: to nissan trunk output + wire

let me know if you have any more questions

 

I'm going to be installing my remote start next week, it looks JUST like Brandons. I have a 92 GXE, will any of those wiring diagrams work for me?

also,if not, how can I test with a voltmeter? i don't know how to, and i don't wanna screw anything up

 

5.99 at radioshack! hehe got one there last night

yea daboxgti- if you look in the keyless entry harness for it. it is on the small plug and its the light green with black strip. (at least on my car!)

 

Ok here's the deal, I just went to RadioShack and got a set of 1kV, 2.5A Silicon Diodes. Before I put this in, is this the right one? The salesman there had no clue what the difference was between all of them there. so I picked the one that I thought could come close. Brandon- I'm not sure which question you are answering, but what I wanted to know was where is the wire to my window switch? Should I connect the remote output to the Auto-Down window switch or should I just connect it to the manual window switch? Craig- I dont already have the power trunk mechanism. do you think this is difficult to install? I was thinking of getting the whole system from a GXE from a junkyard and putting it in. Would my car already have the wiring for it?
I like adding options

 

you can buy a good sharp point tester from anywhere. I got one from Target for $5. It should be for 12V applications. It has a pointy end that you can poke into wires so you can test them without cutting and if there is power, it will light up. Some wires need a - signal so it won't light up when you do it, but it will give it a - pulse (ie if you're testing for the unlock wire, poke into the wire and it will cause the doors to unlock); if you do get one of these, be careful - I've stabbed my finger so many times with the thing and it is sharp

I'm not too sure about the diodes you got,they might be a little too much since we only need it for 12V, but they should work; if you have time to wait, I can send you some of the kind I used for free in the mail; just email me your address
as far as wiring to the windows, you will have to buy a seperate roll down module if you want that unless your alarm already has that output
as for the trunk, if you don't have a button now, it may be a pain to do; you could buy the solenoid, relay, and button from a junkyard, but I don't know if that's worth it or not and I do'nt know whether or not the wires are already there

[Edited by «§»Craig B«§» on 02-11-2001 at 01:51 PM]

 

Sorry daboxgti, hehe i didnt read that you wanted the windows too. I was talking about the trunk. I got a relay at radio shack for 5.99, and the trunk release wire is the green with black stripe in the keyless entry box, but i forgot you have an SE so you dont have it. I dont know about the windows, we didnt 'accidently' come across them in the keyless entry like how we found the trunk release. They do also sell power trunk relaese kits, check out autotoys.com theyre pretty cheap too, i think like 10 bucks?

Ngthing- hmmm well, i think im gonna seriously recomend you have yours installed, or work with a person that really knows what their doing. Theres no way in hell i would have been able to do this on my own with testing everywire with the voltometer and all. It would have been not so hard if all the wire colors matched, but they didnt. Also would have helped to have a FSM which im gonna buy off ebay now, haha Have fun installing, but i seriously reccomend you just have it done, i should have done it too, haha. Craigs cool though, if you got anyproblems he'll help you out.