Hi,

I had air flow meter replaced by
garage three days ago as remedy for bad stalling problem -- I could not rev. engine above 2000 rpms or it would immediately cut out. (Stumbling and
spluttering along like in the silent
movies was only driving that was
possible). I had alternator replaced
also about 4 weeks ago and garage
put in a new battery along with air
flow meter.

For two days car runs sweet, I
drove 20-30 miles in the city.
Yesterday took it 50 miles to NH,
again no problem, cruising at 70-80
mph. On the return trip disaster!
started jerking and dying on me all
over again...I made it home by
keeping it at about 55 mph and
again the crucial 2000 rpms, it did
stall/stop once but by then I was
off Rt. 93 and close to home.

I paid $600 to the garage for air flow
meter job so am pretty angry with them; I could have been stuck somewhere. But is it their fault? are problems like
this very elusive? anyone had
similiar situation and what solved
it? I have 170K on my Nissan but am
reluctant to part with it just yet
so I am willing to spend some more
money to make it run. Garage also
mentioned my water pump is fading
and will need replacing but I don't
think this could be related.

Anyway if anyone has had similiar
pronlems it would be great to hear
from you...

Thanks
Martin

 

Did you run the diagnostics on your ECU to determine if it found anything? Usually it would. Check out the test site to search for previous threads discussing this.

http://test.maxima.org.

 

I have this stalling/jerking problem as well. It only happens within the first 10-20 minutes of driving until it's properly warmed up. The guy I bought it from maintains it's the AFM since he had the same problem before. A shop scanned it and couldn't see anything, they want me to leave it overnight, but I need the car and it also doesn't happen every time, just now and then. I also noticed this happens on colder mornings more often. The car would also not start from the first crank, but will immediately from the second, I don't know if this relates to the same issue. After it's warm then it would start without a problem again. The AFM is $500 new and I decided, instead of replacing it, to wait until the problem gets worse. It would stall at any speed when it feels like doing it, the rpm gauge starts going back and forth, and the car starts slowing down. Most of the time I'm able to let go of the gas pedal and the accelerate again, but sometimes it'd just die and I have to pull over and restart it again. This is extremely annoying, I hope someone can help out. It's a 93se.

 

I have had bad trouble with AFM which (fingers crossed) now seems
to be solved. Here is a blow by blow account:

- Garage replaced AFM ($350 part $90 labor). I was happy. Car
driving beautifully. Then after about 80 miles along
it stalls on the highway, an
hour from home. I limp back by keeping it below 2000 RPMs
( approx 55 mph) - an unnerving experience as it bucked and
threatened to stall all the way...

- Garage promptly replaces AFM again (no cost). This time I
get about 4 miles and it stalls on a crowded rotary!! It does
start again and once again I get home ok but exasperated !!

- I like and trust my garage who persuade me to let them have
one last look. This time they go after replicating the stalling
and find that simply pushing down on the AFM with your hand
immediately does it. They check various online forums and
decide that *reconditioned* AFMs (which is what they've used) are
problematic. They install a *used* AFM. (and credit me $160)
(I also notice when I pick it up that the original AFM had
4 pins and the reconditioned ones 5 (I have not checked
the one in there at the moment, I am almost afraid to look
at it ...)

Now 70 miles later, so far so good, been in town, highway, daytime
nightime, humid, hot, cool.... (OK so before it failed after 80)
but I guess this time they seemed to have understood the reason...

Hope this helps, best of luck.....

 

juses you guys are getting raped 350 for part 90 for labor 600 for both holy crap mine went out back in aprill and i just went and paid 10$ for a junk yard afm and it literaly takes less than 5 minuites to change there are alternatives to paying these prices like checking with the .org for a cheaper alternative you could also go to autozone and get a refurb with a lifetime war. for about $180 and they would proboly put it in for you for free like i said its as easy as changing your air filter

 

Thanks for the account. Our problem is similar, just it only happens to me occasionally during the first 10-20min until the engine warms up. Never afterwards and I have no issues with rpm or speed limitations. You're correct about the pins, I tried a used MAF with 5 pins (mine had 4) and it didn't work. The car wouldn't even crank. I'm glad you guys pointed out that reconditioned MAF's are good for nothing. Subs is right, they overcharged you. I changed the MAF in 10 minutes and if you take a look at it, it's really easy. The price of a used one will depend from junkyard to junkyard, I've heard they range from $30 to +$100. I'm sceptical about the $10 subs claimed. The part is $500 new at the dealership. Keep us updated, I'll post my progress as soon as I find a good used one again.

 

The scrapyard/used MAF seems to have done the trick. Two weeks and 300-400
miles later and not the slightest
problem. (And to think I was ready to
scrap my car because of two reconditioned MAFS in a row failing
completely (and costing $160 more)) Also watch out for the number of pins, check the number on your old MAF (4 or 5) and make sureits replacement has the same.