Does $759.- sound right to replace a Knock Sensor?
08-21-2003, 01:27 PM
#1
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Does $759.- sound right to replace a Knock Sensor?
As has been documented many times on this board, my Max has had a stuttering/idle problem for some time. I swapped out coils/EGR valve/O2 sensor/MAFS/Throttle Position Sensor put in new plugs, fuel/air filter, etc all to no avail. I finally broke down and took it to a Japanese car specialize who threw it on their machine and found that the Knock sensor was giving a bad code. He seems to think that this is the precise problem as my max only has 70k easy miles on it plus the fact that I tried all the other usual suspects. What I was floored by was the price-$759 due to the fact that the top part of the motor has to be removed in order to replace the knock sensor. Does this sound about right?
08-21-2003, 01:42 PM
#2
possible... it's doable in a day though, so 759 is pretty high. there's at least $100 in sensor and gaskets there, but I doubt it's worth 650 in labor to do. I'd do it for $300 if you were in Houston. 
08-21-2003, 01:56 PM
#3
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Originally posted by Matt93SE
possible... it's doable in a day though, so 759 is pretty high. there's at least $100 in sensor and gaskets there, but I doubt it's worth 650 in labor to do. I'd do it for $300 if you were in Houston.
possible... it's doable in a day though, so 759 is pretty high. there's at least $100 in sensor and gaskets there, but I doubt it's worth 650 in labor to do. I'd do it for $300 if you were in Houston.
08-21-2003, 02:01 PM
#4
$550 in labor!!!!!!!!!!! Hell I'll do it for $500!
WAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYY TOOOOOOOOO MUUUUUUUCCCCCCCHHHHHHHH. Should be maybe 6-7 hours max. Even at $50 per hour, it's only $250 in labor.
WAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYY TOOOOOOOOO MUUUUUUUCCCCCCCHHHHHHHH. Should be maybe 6-7 hours max. Even at $50 per hour, it's only $250 in labor.
Originally posted by Ekote
$550 in labor. $165 for the part. $40 for a gasket...
$550 in labor. $165 for the part. $40 for a gasket...
08-21-2003, 02:19 PM
#5
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Wow, you'd give me a whole $50 off? Thanks!
The mechanic said the top end of the motor has to come off, hence the high labor price. Since it is a reputable shop, it would, of course come with some sort of a warranty. The kicker would be if they did all this work only to find that it didn't fix the problem. I guess one can't dwell on that type of possibility. Any other constructive suggestions before I pull the trigger on the job?
The mechanic said the top end of the motor has to come off, hence the high labor price. Since it is a reputable shop, it would, of course come with some sort of a warranty. The kicker would be if they did all this work only to find that it didn't fix the problem. I guess one can't dwell on that type of possibility. Any other constructive suggestions before I pull the trigger on the job?
08-21-2003, 02:28 PM
#7
Top end of the motor?? Whatever 
It's only the upper manifold(easy as hell), the lower manifold(a little harder) and maybe the fuel rails. Again pretty easy.
Not only is that shop "reputable", they must be rollin' Mercedes S600s on 22" dubs yo.
It's only the upper manifold(easy as hell), the lower manifold(a little harder) and maybe the fuel rails. Again pretty easy. Not only is that shop "reputable", they must be rollin' Mercedes S600s on 22" dubs yo.
08-21-2003, 02:35 PM
#8
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Originally posted by Jeff92se
Top end of the motor?? Whatever It's only the upper manifold(easy as hell), the lower manifold(a little harder) and maybe the fuel rails. Again pretty easy.
Not only is that shop "reputable", they must be rollin' Mercedes S600s on 22" dubs yo.
Top end of the motor?? Whatever
It's only the upper manifold(easy as hell), the lower manifold(a little harder) and maybe the fuel rails. Again pretty easy. Not only is that shop "reputable", they must be rollin' Mercedes S600s on 22" dubs yo.
Anyone?
08-21-2003, 02:41 PM
#9
Seattle?! What shop is this????????? How many OTHER shops have you tried?? I could refer to my friend's shop but I don't know if he's cheaper. But couldn't he be?? What do want from us?? Instructions?? How would that help? I don't think you are going to do this yourself anyway.
If my schedule gets less that overly crazy, I could do it. But I'd check with the resister like the other guy said to confirm before ripping everything off.
Smart arsed comments? Dude, we are trying to tell you that's way too much. If you want to pay that much, please by all means go right ahead. It's not my money.
If my schedule gets less that overly crazy, I could do it. But I'd check with the resister like the other guy said to confirm before ripping everything off.
Smart arsed comments? Dude, we are trying to tell you that's way too much. If you want to pay that much, please by all means go right ahead. It's not my money.
Originally posted by Ekote
This is unreal. I post a problem on a board looking for some help and all I get are vague comments about how what I have heard is crazy, but no viable options. How am I supposed to get this pos fixed if I can't, well, get it fixed. If that shop is too crazy-high wtf am I supposed to do? I have asked several times on this board for a reliable mechanic in the Seattle area, but I get no solid answers. Excuse me for my ****yness, but I am getting tired of answers with smart *** comments like "they must be rollin' Mercedes S600s on 22" dubs yo".
Anyone?
This is unreal. I post a problem on a board looking for some help and all I get are vague comments about how what I have heard is crazy, but no viable options. How am I supposed to get this pos fixed if I can't, well, get it fixed. If that shop is too crazy-high wtf am I supposed to do? I have asked several times on this board for a reliable mechanic in the Seattle area, but I get no solid answers. Excuse me for my ****yness, but I am getting tired of answers with smart *** comments like "they must be rollin' Mercedes S600s on 22" dubs yo".
Anyone?
08-21-2003, 03:12 PM
#10
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Fair enough. I'm just getting sick of this problem and it's nobody's fault but mine (to quote Zeppelin). It's Mark's Japanese Auto in Bellevue. I just want it fixed. I'm not confident enough in my own abilities to do it myself, but I don't want to get hosed.
08-21-2003, 03:15 PM
#11
Dude read up on using a 470k or 550k resister(I forget which one) to bypass it. If you car runs like a bat outa hell, then consider getting it changed. Until then, there's no way I'd open my butt cheeks to the tune of $700+.
08-21-2003, 03:21 PM
#12
for that kind of money, and in the seattle area, just have Jeff92SE do it. If hes too busy, I'll do it.
Also the reason why I can not come up with an answer for a reliable shop in the Seattle area is because I do all of my own work. The only thing I cant do is alignments and I'm not familiar with Air Conditioning.
The only place I can recommend is Auto Works of Issaquah, but they are expensive, my Dad uses them for his work, and they do a good job.
Also the reason why I can not come up with an answer for a reliable shop in the Seattle area is because I do all of my own work. The only thing I cant do is alignments and I'm not familiar with Air Conditioning.
The only place I can recommend is Auto Works of Issaquah, but they are expensive, my Dad uses them for his work, and they do a good job.
08-21-2003, 06:25 PM
#16
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Ekote---
Here is the link to show you what is needed to replace the knock sensor: http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...k_sensor.shtml .
Now, how to use a 470K resistor to checkout if that is your problem: on the female side of the connector--see above link--install the resistor across the terminals and cover up the male connector. Drive and see how she feels. If all is well, then the knock sensor needs replacement. However, if you are sure of the abilities of the auto shop that you mentioned, then they may be right as you have eliminated about 95% of the other posibilities that could cause your problem.
HOWEVER, there seems to be one thing that you did not check: injectors! Check the resistance of your injectors (should be around 10 - 14 ohms) to see if one is not working properly. That can--and will--cause the stuttering/idle problem that you have.
Now, as for the price, $550.00 for labor comes out to about $79.00/hour for a 7 hour job. Although that may seem high, but that is the going hourly rate here in VA. People are saying that it is an easy job, but as you can see, it is time consuming. You have to worry about gaskets, dropping washers, specific torque sequence, etc. As with anything else, if you can't--or don't want to--do it yourself, then you will have to pay. It is a simple as that. Now, with all of that, does the price seem high? No, not really. Especially if you shop and around and compare it to the price a $$tealership would charge you.
I, personally, have my KS shorted out with the resistor and the car runs like a champ. I will replace my KS myself, but I have other things that I will do first. Give the resistor trick a try and run only 91 or better octane gas. But, check your injectors also before you plunk down the dollars.
Here is the link to show you what is needed to replace the knock sensor: http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...k_sensor.shtml .
Now, how to use a 470K resistor to checkout if that is your problem: on the female side of the connector--see above link--install the resistor across the terminals and cover up the male connector. Drive and see how she feels. If all is well, then the knock sensor needs replacement. However, if you are sure of the abilities of the auto shop that you mentioned, then they may be right as you have eliminated about 95% of the other posibilities that could cause your problem.
HOWEVER, there seems to be one thing that you did not check: injectors! Check the resistance of your injectors (should be around 10 - 14 ohms) to see if one is not working properly. That can--and will--cause the stuttering/idle problem that you have.
Now, as for the price, $550.00 for labor comes out to about $79.00/hour for a 7 hour job. Although that may seem high, but that is the going hourly rate here in VA. People are saying that it is an easy job, but as you can see, it is time consuming. You have to worry about gaskets, dropping washers, specific torque sequence, etc. As with anything else, if you can't--or don't want to--do it yourself, then you will have to pay. It is a simple as that. Now, with all of that, does the price seem high? No, not really. Especially if you shop and around and compare it to the price a $$tealership would charge you.
I, personally, have my KS shorted out with the resistor and the car runs like a champ. I will replace my KS myself, but I have other things that I will do first. Give the resistor trick a try and run only 91 or better octane gas. But, check your injectors also before you plunk down the dollars.
08-21-2003, 06:42 PM
#17
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resistor
I also jumpered out the Knock sensor with a 33 cent resistor and the car runs great and since I always use 93 octane I am not going to worry about knocking and will wait until something else more important needs work before I pay to have the intake manifold removed (Like VTCs).
08-21-2003, 08:04 PM
#18
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Re: resistor
Originally posted by ljbrew001
I also jumpered out the Knock sensor with a 33 cent resistor and the car runs great and since I always use 93 octane I am not going to worry about knocking and will wait until something else more important needs work before I pay to have the intake manifold removed (Like VTCs).
I also jumpered out the Knock sensor with a 33 cent resistor and the car runs great and since I always use 93 octane I am not going to worry about knocking and will wait until something else more important needs work before I pay to have the intake manifold removed (Like VTCs).
BTW, the 4dsc site does a nice job of explaining how to change a knock sensor but the sticky on this site DOES NOT explain how to use a resistor to subvert the ks. The sticky ***** are wrong on this point...
08-21-2003, 08:38 PM
#19
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Originally posted by Ekote
the search feature on this site doesn't seem to work. anyone happen to have a link about how to workaround/disconnect the knock sensor?
the search feature on this site doesn't seem to work. anyone happen to have a link about how to workaround/disconnect the knock sensor?
08-21-2003, 09:33 PM
#21
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Ekote---
I am with you on the stickys. Although there is some good information, there seems to be missing detail for the newbies who need the most guidance. It would be nice to have some detailed, up-to-date information under the "shop Talk" link on the main Maxima.org page. That way, this can be, truly, a one-stop location for advice, reference, and information. Otherwise, you have to go this site and that site to find the same info that is talked about here. I have no problem refering people to the stickys and FAQ, but some--not all--of the info is vague at best. Hmmmmm.
I am with you on the stickys. Although there is some good information, there seems to be missing detail for the newbies who need the most guidance. It would be nice to have some detailed, up-to-date information under the "shop Talk" link on the main Maxima.org page. That way, this can be, truly, a one-stop location for advice, reference, and information. Otherwise, you have to go this site and that site to find the same info that is talked about here. I have no problem refering people to the stickys and FAQ, but some--not all--of the info is vague at best. Hmmmmm.
08-22-2003, 07:40 AM
#23
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heres the cheapest place to get a kn http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33691
i bought one from this guy about a month ago
i bought one from this guy about a month ago
08-22-2003, 07:59 PM
#25
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Don't sweat it. I'm picking one up this weekend. The stickies didn't say crap about how to do this. How is someone supposed to know how to do it if they have never done it before. Anyways, thanks for the offer...
08-24-2003, 09:59 AM
#27
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I did not mean to imply that jeff was a '****'. I apologize for being such a *****. This car has driven me to new heights of a$$hole-ish-ness. At any rate, I appreciate all of you have attempted to help. Once I get this problem fixed, I'm done. Been eying a used WRX...
08-24-2003, 11:14 AM
#28
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Posts: 18
hey i think i have similar problems
I think I have similar problems. I have tested/replaced a variety of items (plugs, wires, etc) but nothing works. Does your car have this problem continuously or sproadically? And if you get higher octane fuel, does it perform better?
Thanks from misery in company
Brad G
Thanks from misery in company
Brad G
08-24-2003, 12:27 PM
#29
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This problem is now consistent with everytime I drive it. I am going to try using the 470k ohm resistor inserted into each female end of the plug connecting to the knock sensor this Tuesday. According the shop I took it to, the ks is bad, hence the resistor fix. I will update on Tuesday and let you know if it worked. The high octane fuel is for after you subvert the ks with the resistor...
08-27-2003, 03:10 PM
#30
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Update. I installed the 470k Ohm 1/2 volt resistor in the the 2 female ends of the knock sensor plug. For the first 10 minutes I was in Maxima nirvana: no stuttering, incredible acceleration, steady idle, etc. Then, the stutter started again. A orgasmic temporary reprieve resulted in a disasterous fall back to reality. I am gonna disconnect the battery overnight hoping that the computer will clear out the bad knock sensor code and read the bypass as legit. If not, I spose I'll move onto the injectors. Unreal.
09-06-2003, 10:19 PM
#35
I think my white92 Might be having the same problems. I havent gotten out and driven it yet because of insurance, but it doesnt idle well. hmmmmm. I know of a cliff, but my driveway is more suiting 
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