CAI
Y
Carsound Cat
GReddy
UDP

My 2nd pull I did 180 and 185...they only printed me out the last run because they were so busy though.

BTW this was right off a 30 minute highway drive in 100 deg. Texas heat and my car was feeling like a dog. Hopefully when I get my heat soak problem solved and piddle around on it I can be putting down 190ish.

Now if only I could weigh in at 3000 lbs like the lucky 4th gen GXE guys

Wait, I thought stock on the VE engine is 190 HP? You sure you don't have the VG?

EDIT - nevermind I just checked your homepage... silly me

But seriously isn't the VE 190 stock?

It is the VE with 190 hp. Hp is always rated at the crank. So that is why the number is less...

yes it puts out 190 at the crank. but his numbers are at the wheels

Stock VE's put down 160-165 WHEEL hp

Compared to VG's putting down oh 125ish at the wheels

don't remind me

Those are really good numbers james. I cant find my old dyno on the web, I might have to scan it again.

Did you install the 170* thermostate yet? Definitly a worthy mod.

Nice flat torque response, VE POWA!@

What did you dyno at? What mods did you have at the time?

So you are roughly 211hp at the crank.... Very nice numbers considering the heat and everything. I bet you could maybe get 10 more hp on a cool morning dyno...

Sorry for the delay, I forgot to look for the dyno, I'll do it tonight.

At the time I was dynoing the UR UDP (prototype). It showed about 10hp and 10tq at around 4000rpm (I'm sure an old thread will confirm this).

How was the dyno done? did they run with OD off and only do third gear? B/C those numbers are starting pretty low in the rpm scale so I'm not too sure how they did it.

Eric, James is 5-speed

Pifff, thanks for pointing that out. I could have sworn I read differently.

That would explain the wide rpm range.

IIRC he used to be Auto, but then again something makes me thing his old light blue Max was a 5spd aswell.

That was with my own CAI setup (version 1). It shows before and after for the UR UDP. This is an automatic dynoed in third gear with the OD off.

I've done a lot since then, including the Y-pipe.

Those are incredible gains for just a UDP. They decided not to make them because ASP already makes a VE UDP?

I was able to start my dyno as low as 3400. If you go WOT at about 68-70mph, it shouldn't kick down. But as we've determined before, your speedo is different than mine.

My dyno showed that my tach is off. But those are some nice numbers.

My Skyblue VE was an auto

I bought Ryans (flyry110) VE 5spd and transferred over all my shiznit

BTW guys....I didnt realize till my brother posted my dyno on the Honda board that sponsored the dyno meet/event, but apparantly people are seeing the dyno wrong where the curves cross.

HP stays at 175ish till past 6k; tq starts to drop off to 150ish after about 5300 just in case anyone is confusing the lines

Eric...I havent heard of the 170* thermostat? What advantage does this have?

Actually there is a TSB on the 170* thermo. and it spoke specifically about performance enhancing!

You know that these engines run a bit hot, a cooler thermostate is the way to go ESPECIALLY if you live in a warm/hot climate. There are no drivability issues that I've experienced living in NY.

Nissan does make the 170* thermo. but I do not have the part number, I guess you could call and ask. There is an org member that works at a nissan in texas, I dont remember his org name, he should definitly know. Beck/arnly also makes the failsafe version of the 170* thermo, I bought it from carparts.com. I havent installed it yet, I still have a regular stant 170* thermo installed (its not failsafe).

BTW guys, dont forget I'm an automatic. So its not a 1:1 conparason between 5spd and auto.

Very interesting! I have a normal 180* therm in my car and I my normal operating coolant temp on a 100*F+ Vegas day is about 210. My fans kick on at 212*F. My car is never operating below 190. Some nights when it's 85 degrees, I can drive very easy and keep my temp at 193 for a good while. But it eventually heats up to 200. That is all without my AC being on.

The reason why I haven't tried this thermostat is b/c I didn't think it had any purpose since my normal operating temp in the summer time is NEVER below 190. So if I have a 180* therm, that is when it allows coolant to flow. With a 170* therm, it would just make my car warm up to 200 longer.

Am I correct? Or is there more to this I'm not seeing. Also, i didn't know there was a TSB out there for this. I will have to check that out.

Also, what is a fail safe thermostat? I've never heard of that.

Failsafe means when the thermostate finally fails it'll be in the fully open position instead of stuck shut. If a thermo fails stuck shut the engine will seriously over heat. So with a failsafe instead of the temp needle pegging the guage it'll be all the way on the cool end.

Aaron is your thermo original? I'm asking b/c your reporting the engine temp is well over 180 during normal operation. That either means your guage is a little off or your thermo is off on its own calibration. I'd reccomend getting the new 170* thermo.

I dont understand your reasoning with the thermostate. The engine will warm up normally, just that now it should moderate around 170* instead of around 180*.

Every thermostat I've ever heard of is designed to fail in the open position. I haven't heard of any thermostats closing and staying closed. But I'm sure there's a story out there.

My thermostat is definitely not original. When I bought the car, it was broken. Stuck in the open position. How hot is it where you live? In Vegas, it's atleast 100 degrees every day. Even at night, it's 85 and I still operates at 190-200. So, if I operate at 200 degrees and my thermostat is 180*F, then that means a 170 thermostat will allow coolant to flow sooner. It will just make my car take longer to warm up to 200 degrees. It will still get to 200 degrees reguardless. Sometimes at night, I can keep it at 190 degrees, though.

If the coolant flows at 170*, it will cool the motor down or atleast try. In this heat, my car will still get to 190+. It will just take longer.

I've tested my gauge when I bought it. My gauge showed 212*F in boiling water. Pretty accurate since boiling water is 212.

Have you seen that TSB? Do you know what it's called or the number? I'm curious what it says.

*edit* How do you know you're not running at 190-210 normal operating temperature even with your 170* thermostat?

Your right, I have know idea what the exact temp is that I'm running at. Here in NY the temps arent as bad, 90 degree weather only lasts a few weeks, more typically we're in the 80's (high humidity).

I glad to hear that you tested your temp guage

Your a little pessimistic about the 170* thermostate. Also I dont know how old your antifreeze is, but its ability to dissipate heat gets pretty bad over time, and really should be changed every 2 years. It would be really interesting if you saw any changes in your operating temp, with the 170* and fresh antifreeze.

i got the lower thermo from da dealer....weird stuff b/c for the VE they list only 1 thermo, but for the VG they list the same 1 as the VE as well as the lower 1...so u just hafta make sure to check their VG list...

Oh yeah, I'm a maintenance freak with my maxima. I flush my cooling system atleast once every 15,000 miles or once a year. Antifreeze actually transfers heat more than water. So, the only reason you should have a little antifreeze in your system in the summer time is to prevent corrosion. Straight water is better than a 50/50 mixture of coolant. Straight water plus Water Wetter is one of the best mixtures for keeping cool. I have 90% water, 10% antifreeze, and water wetter in the summer time in Vegas. When it cools down in Nov, I will go back to about a 60/40 mixture of water/coolant.

I'm sorry if I come off pessimistic. But, as I do with every mod I've done, if I don't understand the concept behind it, I will not try it. So, I will continue to research every mod I've done until I come to a conclusion. As for the lower thermostat, I haven't figured it out yet. I DO see it making a very nice difference in the winter time in 50 degrees or below. Because it's MUCH easier to keep your coolant temp around the same as the rating of the thermostat. Now, THAT is something I will probably do in the winter time.

When my thermostat broke (stuck open), in the summer time, it had no adverse effects accept for it taking like 20 minutes for my motor to warm up. It would also take forever to warm up in the winter time.

In the winter time in NC, it will get anywhere from 25-45 on a normal 24 hour winter period. So, in something like 35 degrees, I will cruise on the highway without racing it, and my operating temp drops to below 150 degrees. Way too cold for normal operating temp. I can say an exact temperature b/c with my aftermarket temp gauge, I can correspond degrees with how my stock temp gauge reads.

But on a normal 50 degree day, I can easily see a lower thermostat making a very nice difference. B/c I run my best times at the track around 150-170 degrees. And my stock temp needle goes below midway at anything below 160. it goes above midway at anything hotter than 230. So from 160-230 degrees, the stock temp needle stays sitting in the middle... not even thinking about moving. lol That sucks. I'm glad I got a tmep gauge now. One that actually tells you how hot you're running.

Again I'm sorry about coming off pessimistic. It is a feasible mod when the temps cool down. And seriously, I can run about 2 tenths faster in the 1/4 mile from racing at 170 instead of 190. No joke, it's noticable on the butt dyno while going down the track b/c of the lag in the bottom of 1st gear (heat soak). And at 200-210 degrees, I will be up to 4 tenths slower.

When I got this temp gauge, I found out how I could hot lap in the winter time in NC while doing consistant 14.90s. It was 45 degrees outside and it was VERY easy for my motor to remain at the normal 180 degrees. I can't wait until temps cool down. My car will be fast again.

Crap! I typed a lot. Hope I didn't bore anybody out.

Hey Aaron,
Everything is on par except that adding antifreeze in the summer time actually pushes out the boiling point from 212* upto around 240* depending on the mixture of course.

Water Wetter is a great heat transfering agent, I use it with water cooling rigs I build and there is a noticeable difference, plus it helps prevent corrosion big time I haven't really tested it with cars yet, but with computers it sure does its job.