eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

I read the TSB a couple years ago, but never printed that one (I have about 20 printed).

It has to do with injectors from 93' and up, use the pintle-less design and that use of any injector cleaner will corrode the coil and lead to failure.

I spoke to Jim Wolf a while back and he was telling me that it's not too uncommon for pieces of the varnish to break off the solenoid and cause the injector to perform badly (also having to do with the use of injector cleaner).

Since I've been having such a bad time at the track, I went ahead and ordered 6 new injectors and seals. I don't want to waste time anymore di,cking around. I've contemplated sending the old ones out to be cleaned, and decided against it. Buying rebuilt injectors is just a disaster waiting to happen (new ones are only twice the cost ~$90).

Having the injectors cleaned can only do more damage to the coils. I've also found that many shops dont have the proper machine to clean our style injectors (imbeded in the rail).

Anyone have the TSB?

RMAX54

Is the varnish breaking off the solenoid coil an issue only with the '93 and up injectors like the TSB? Or does it apply to earlier models as well? I'm asking becuse I've got a '90 VG and was considering letting RC Engineering clean and refurb my entire injector set.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

You should ask them if they have the machine to do it properly (on your specific injector). Not all places have the machine that can do our injectors properly.

I'm not sure about which years this applies to, I only read a little about the TSB online and it said '93 and up. This may be why we have three different injectors for the third gen max, not only the fact that we have two engines.

One guy gained over 1 second on his 1/4 mile time, when only having his injectors cleaned by RC engineering. I'd say go ahead with the cleaning and blueprinting. Your engine also has problems with the injector harness corroding, so make sure you take care of that as well.

RMAX54

For a VG, my understanding is that you've got to pull the injectors out of the rails for RC Engineering to be able to refurb them. Also Caleb at Courtesy highly recommended changing all the o-rings in doing any injector replacement at all on cars this old, and you have to pull the injectors out of the rails to do that (lots of fun according to posts I've read here).

Planning a 'little' project in the near to medium future where I:
a) replace at least 1 injector, or replace/refurbish the entire set
b) clean out the intake maifold and throttle body
c) replace injector harnesses (connector boots are falling apart)
d) replace leaky valve cover gasket(s)
e) possible porting work on the throttle body & intake manifold while I'm waiting on injectors to come back from RC Engr.

Had big problems about 6 months ago with a fouled #5 injector - caused a miss even at WOT. It cleaned up with injector cleaner in two tanks gas. After reading your post, I was wondering whether I've screwed up the entire set doing it. Now that #5 injector is starting to cause a miss a idle when cold that mostly goes away when warmed up or with even part throttle. But I'm reading the handwriting on the wall.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I had my VE injectors done by RC, about 2 years ago.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Anything you've observed Jeff?

fuel economy, idle, track 1/4 mile

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

They weren't all that bad to begin with. The car ran well before so I didn't really notice anything. "Maybe" a smoother idle and acceleration but nothing I could really notice. It really depends on how bad the injectors were before I guess.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I bought three remans for the VE from A-1injectors.com and they are working perfectly for me. only the 89-92 VG has a major problem with remans.

RMAX54

You may already have this, but here is a link to all the Nissan Maxima 89-84 TSB's. I saw two related to fuel injection.

Maxima (J30) 89-84 TSB

The 'Gotcha' is that you have to pay a subscription fee to read or download the actual TSB. Minimum is $19.99 for a one day subscription.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

NTB94002


This bulletin advises that Nissan No Longer Recommends Using Fuel Injector Cleaners in the applied vehicles. Use of Fuel Injector Cleaner on these vehicles, while providing Little Cleaning Benefit, may cause Corrosion of the Fuel Injector Coil and Eventual Failure of the Injector.


Hey that was it! Thanks.

Hey maybe Matt can add that info in a sticky.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

1 Year Subscription
$2,499.98 (USD)

Allows Online access for a minimum of one year.


Wow thats the price that nissan wants to access their full TSB information!

Buzz(NJ)

Red Line Complete Fuel System Cleaner and Chevron Techron. Both these products work using detergents and contain no harmful solvents. Will clean intake valves, PCV valves, EGR system, and more. Gas mileage will usually improve by up to 12%. There's an excellent tech article (very long) on the Red Line cleaner here: www.myoilshop.com/SI1_2Tech.html.

I've used Red Line for a long time. The only concern I would have is in an older car it could loosen a lot of debris in the gas tank and end up clogging the fuel filter. Not a bad idea to change fuel filter after a treatment.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Many people 'think' their injector cleaner is working, meanwhile its just removing carbon deposits on the intake/exhaust valves.

In the future (with the new injectors installed), I plan to use the sea foam cleaner to do the intake/exhaust valves and cat. convertor. I'll only let the intake manifold suck it in and not use any in the gas.

I've used the sea foam liquid in the past and I recently had the emissions tested. The car test with near ZERO emissions, I'll post the slip if anyone is interested. I also watched while he ran the dyno/test, so he didnt cheat the test.

rcy

Holy Cow!!! It might be cheaper to access them at www.nhtsa.dot.gov

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I'm telling you Eric, your 1/4 mile times are NOT slower than what they should be. Unless you have reason to believe that your car is running like crap or the injectors are going out of spec, then I wouldn't mess with the injectors.

I've already looked very closely into your track times. On average, you are one tenth slower than my times under those circumstances. That's it. You won't see good times until you let that sucker cool down to below 170 degrees.

My goal this winter is to get into the 14s in Fontana, CA, which is 3 tenths slower than my home track in NC.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

I know dude.

Well they are on their way. F-it.

The thing is, I've been modding and tuning the car, and my track times have gotten worse!

Seriously, adding the Y-pipe did nothing!. The UDP, NOTHING!

I made the CAI even better, and even went from a HAI to my second version of a CAI, and nothing changed!

Two years ago I ran 16.0, then I started modding and the times are now 16.3. Thats telling me that something is getting worse and not better.

I've replaced EVERYTHING! (except the injectors).

I've read testimonials online, and after cleaning injectors one guy gained over 1sec in the 1/4 mile. He went from mid 16's to low 15's. I'm hoping this is gonna be my case (fingers crossed).

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

There is a logical explanation to EVERY one of your track times. I've made countless amount of passes with my car. And at the start of this bracket racing season, I kepted a strict logbook. So I know my car within .05 of a second.

JUST due to the weather changing, I can run anywhere from 14.8 to 16.0. So you have to know what weather you ran in EXACTLY to really be able to determine if your mods helped or hurt you.

I remember you explaining to me the weather tha day you ran tha 16 flat and then again the day you ran the 16.3. It was completely two different days. If you have the timeslips with the time and date on them, I can look up exactly what the weather was at that time of day you ran.

I can analyze timeslips very well since I've been doing it a LONG time with my VE Auto. If you ever get an instant messenger, we can crunch some numbers and figure out if your car is indeed getting slower b/c of lack of maintenance.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

You don't understand. It did'nt matter, hot/cold humid/dry ===>16.3


We'll see. In two weeks. I just found out they will arrive on monday. So I'll have to wait till next weekend to install them, and maybe I'll be able to go to the track the same weekend.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

No, but if I know exactly what the conditions were, no matter how insignificant they sound, I can tell you how much the conditions will help or hurt. Most people don't know about how MUCH barometric pressure can help or hurt a track day. Add in ambient temp and humidity and you have equivalent air density elevation. But one day to another in Las Vegas, the air density can change from 3500 feet to 5500 feet. That changes things A LOT.

Anyway, good luck with the injectors. And when you want a fast track time, I can help you. Until then, good luck trying to get into the 15s with a hot VE.

That's why I am experimenting with different thermostats when the weather in Vegas starts getting cooler. I will be able to operate at a much lower temp when these dang hot temps come down.

RMAX54

Why would anybody buy a 1 year access for $2500? Buy one day for $20, and download ALL of the 3rd gen set. Burn 'em to CD and sell to ORG members to recoup you $20. They are all Adobe Acrobat documents, and I doubt that Nissan is bothering to update or add info for 3rd Gen Maximas. For Nissan, 3rd gen is anchient history.