ok this is to those who have trying to help me out with my ongoing braje problems... i replaced master cylinder. done.. drivers side rear wheel cylinder, rebuilt. done. then bled all lines. ok so now we have brakes! kinda still not to much pressure in the pedal? dont get me wrong its better than before but still could be better??????

 

You DID bleed everything right?
hopefully you bench bled the master prior to installing it.
Air in the lines can cause lousy pedal feel.
So can cheap pads and bad hoses

 

everything was bled! a couple of times. yea i know about air in the lines and, there is no more air in the lines. and the pads are brand new from southwest autos definitley not cheap! i dont buy anything cheap for my car. and all hoses are good????

 

Relax man. I always start with the obvious because that comonly gets overlooked. check your hoses for soft spots in the rubber. They should be relatively stiff. If they're original I would give serious thought to replacing them even if they appear good.

 

what about the other wheel cylinder? when one goes, the other usually isn't far behind.

 

the other wheel cylinder is ok, i checked it again today???

 

Okay, so let's go back to the beginning. Is the pedal spongy or springy? Does pedal travel some distance before brakes work?

Spongy = air in system
Springy = brake linings not bedded in (after replacing them); severe wear in rear drums (causing distortion when brakes applied); master cylinder or drum brake backplate mounting nuts/bolts loose.
Pedal travel = incorrect pedal adjustment (esp after master cyl replacement); brake shoes set too far from the drums (poss seized adjuster - remove & lubricate).

When the engine's running, if you pump up the brake pedal, does the pedal firm up? If so, still air in the system (sorry...). If no difference, try next coupla things:

I'm sure you said you'd changed your rear brake shoes - do one more check to make sure they're adjusted right. The park brake lever should only "click" up 3-5 times. If your lever keeps travelling - adjust.

Check flexible brake hoses. Get someone to press hard on brake pedal (or jam 3ft of wood / vacuum cleaner pipe between seat & pedal) and check hoses to make sure no bulges anywhere.

Finally, extremely unlikely, it's remotely possible the brake proportioning valve faulty (on top of everything else...). Normally this limits the amount of hydraulic pressure to rear wheels to prevent them locking up under heavy braking (around a factor of 2:1). But... I've never heard of valve going bad and affecting pedal pressure. Normally, you get a brake balance problem from one side to other. So... although a very, very remote possibility, discount this unless you've run out of things to check... (BTW: brake proportioning valve mounted on firewall)

Man, you're sure having problems! Hope above helps... Let us know what's actually happening - your braking system is very standard as non-abs - then we can do proper fault finding. Good Luck!

 

ok so after doing a couple more of the things you said nismo, i have slightly more pressure, the pedal still goes about half way down before the brakes work. form that point they are good, now i have noticed my parking brake does not work at all? i really dont wanna go to a brake shop cuz their gonna hit me up for all kinds of problems...how would i check the brake balence? and the guy who did mine put them back the same im guessing?

 

I'm going to guess you screwed the adjusters completely in when you replaced the shoes on the back...
If so, then you need to reset those guys by continually pulling the parking brake. just hold the button down and keep pulling/releasing the brake handle. you'll hear and feel a clunk type action when you get near the top. that's the adjusters ratcheting on the drums. it'll take a loooong time for them to get reset (there's about 15 teeth per turn on the adjuster, and you'll probably have to turn the adjuster 10 times.. so there's 150 pulls on the brake handle)...
but keep playing the the parking brake adjuster until it sets tension.

Once you do that, you should be back up to speed on the brakes.

 

ok that will be on tomorrows agenda... have you ever heard of anyone with this many brake problems? also today when i was driving home all of a sudden i heard this thud, thud thud thud and the faster i went the faster it went and when i slowed down it slowed down? i was on my way to an interview so i couldnt take the time to check what it was? def sounds like its comming from rear wheel( same one i worked on yesterday) also if there were small tears on the outside boots of the wheel cylinder would that affect anything? i was told they basically just keep dirt out and the holes are really small?????

 

you should replace the boots if they're cracked. it'll cause the seals inside to wear out quicker if they get dirt and crap in there.. were there not new seals in the rebuild kit?

 

Ummm - there is something really wrong with how your rear shoes are mounted, which is why your park brake doesn't work so good.
Don't do what Matt93SE says (sorry, man) - pulling up on park brake lever 100 - 150 times doesn't really get to heart of problem and more likely to stretch the cable...
You're gonna have to pull the drums off both sides and check shoes are mounted properly and all the linkages are actually connected. Grease the adjuster is necessary - esp if you suspect it's seized.
Replace the wheel cylinder boots if they're torn.
If you have to remount the shoes, put some lithium grease on the backplate contact points.
Check shoes don't have any brake fluid or grease on the linings (if so, replace them).
Adjust shoes with drums off & re-adjust with drum on. You should feel a little resistance when you rotate the drum - not so much that it grabs early, but it shouldn't just freewheel either. Make sure resistance feels the same on both sides - this will get your balance within the 10% tolerance level. If park brake lever goes up a little too high (like 6+ clicks), then you can pull on it several times as Matt93SE says.

Most people normally don't have this many continual problems with there brakes - I kinda suspect your help not too sure what they're doing, which is why you're having to go back over a few things... Not uncommon for cars of this age to suddenly need $500+ of brake work done in one hit, though.
Good luck!