A few tips water pump removal for the SE. (long)
09-26-2003, 04:25 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
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A few tips water pump removal for the SE. (long)
Water Pump Removal, VE Engine.
1. Used search on the forum to review available info.
2. Many remove pump from top. I opted for bottom. ABS lines seemed to be in the way.
3. Found good info and pics in Chiltons for the VG, VE, And VQ here:
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH03_10.HTML
It is also found under: Table of contents/Eng & Eng Overhaul/Eng Mech.
4. Loosen the pulley bolts before removing the belt (belt holds pulley).
5. Timing pin removal was not required.
6. Pump would not come out until engine was moved (less than 1/4 inch) to increase space. Used the scissors jack under the car with the base against the tie down ring and the top hooked onto the engine support. Loosened the 4 support bolts slightly. Measured space between AC pulley and frame as a reference. Also used a wedge from the top rear. Used a small piece of 2X4 against the engine and a large chisel tapped in lightly between the frame and the 2X4. Did not use excessive force with jack or wedge. MT appears to have stiffer mounts than AT and may be a bit more difficult.
7. To remove the pump required a set ritual. Remove pump from engine until top is clear of studs. Twist pump 45 degrees right. Drop straight down as far as it will go. Lay top of pump to the left so that it is on it's side still turned 45 degrees. From under car move pump until pulley flange is clear of frame at a point aft of the timing pin. Pump should wiggle out. Old pump came out but new pump would not go in. Had to file a small amount of metal on new pump to get it started. This car was involved in a front end collision and it's possible that clearances were closer than normal.
Hope this helps anyone else attempting this task. Any other tips?
1. Used search on the forum to review available info.
2. Many remove pump from top. I opted for bottom. ABS lines seemed to be in the way.
3. Found good info and pics in Chiltons for the VG, VE, And VQ here:
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH03_10.HTML
It is also found under: Table of contents/Eng & Eng Overhaul/Eng Mech.
4. Loosen the pulley bolts before removing the belt (belt holds pulley).
5. Timing pin removal was not required.
6. Pump would not come out until engine was moved (less than 1/4 inch) to increase space. Used the scissors jack under the car with the base against the tie down ring and the top hooked onto the engine support. Loosened the 4 support bolts slightly. Measured space between AC pulley and frame as a reference. Also used a wedge from the top rear. Used a small piece of 2X4 against the engine and a large chisel tapped in lightly between the frame and the 2X4. Did not use excessive force with jack or wedge. MT appears to have stiffer mounts than AT and may be a bit more difficult.
7. To remove the pump required a set ritual. Remove pump from engine until top is clear of studs. Twist pump 45 degrees right. Drop straight down as far as it will go. Lay top of pump to the left so that it is on it's side still turned 45 degrees. From under car move pump until pulley flange is clear of frame at a point aft of the timing pin. Pump should wiggle out. Old pump came out but new pump would not go in. Had to file a small amount of metal on new pump to get it started. This car was involved in a front end collision and it's possible that clearances were closer than normal.
Hope this helps anyone else attempting this task. Any other tips?
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