MrGone

iTrader: (30)

yeah, i found the timing pin thing, kind of took a minute to find it-then i figured if the car was at base timing, 15*, it should just be right at the 15* mark, and it was. It was getting dark and I didnt want to get a light out so I just kind of improvised.

yeah, I made sure the car was on base timing before and while I adjusted it. car seems to run alittle smoother and it feels like theres alot more power down low.

I'll probably advance it abit more later on and see if I notice anything, but right now its fine where its at.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Ok I see finding this loop thing may not be such a big deal, becasue it works for some and not others. I might as well hold on to my getto spark plug wire that I've used in the pass

FYI
For those with ASP UDP if you're wondering if the timing marks graduations on the UDP are correct, rest a sure they are. When I advance my timing I used the stock crank pulley to make sure I was getting the correct timing marks. Then without touching or adjusting anything I swap on my UDP and the timing marks were dead on compared to the stock pulley. I was a little worried due to the fact the UDP was a smaller dia and how accurate would they be when transfering over the timing marks on the UDP. They got it correct.

mattywalsh

yeah - I got that too - I think that loop has the signal for every cylinder, so it strobes nearly constantly...

it's funny that you guys got a signal to pickup off of the coil wires... I clipped on there and got nothing... any ideas why? did you seperate any of the wires out of the harnes or just clip on the whole black-wrapped bunch?

(just using my standard craftsman battery-powered inductive timing light)

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I've found that not every timing light is able to get a signal from clamping around all the #1 coil pack wires. I was able to get a signal though.

Also, if you don't lock it in base timing mode, then you won't get a constant and accurate reading.

Bryan H

bypassing ht eknock sensor is BAD
putting a resistor in there to make it less sensative is BAD.

you HAVE a knock sensor for a reason, it is designed for the purpose of saving the motor.
if you want the so called "heat soak" to be toned down, run higher octane. simple. it works, i' ve done it

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

I think this entire knock sensor by-pass thing has been mis-understood. I can't remember who first suggested to try the resistor, but I do believe it was meant to be used as a diagnostic tool not as a permament fix. For those who were experiencing this heat soak business they could install a resistor, test drive the car and see if the performance changes. If it does not change it's safe to assume your current KS is not the cause of the heat soak (need to look else where) if it does change remove the resistor and replace your KS.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

You hit the nail on the head. It is really only supposed to be a diagnostic tool, but the reason I am leaving mine in is because I noticed abit more power and pull in the lower/mid area of the engine.