Hi all:

Can anyone help me out with a cheap source for a mass air flow sensor for a 92 MaxSE? (I'm gonna post this to the general forum as well.)

Now obviously the dealer is out cuz it's $700 Canadian plus taxes damn them.

I went on ebay but they're expensive there too like $150 US plus shipping.

Then I went to some wreckers and got a few quoting $150 and I actually tried one of them out but the car started stalling so I don't trust that.

Essentially this is to solve the problem of losing power, jerking around for a while and then laying off the gas until power comes back with no losses. I'm assuming it's either the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor and I'm trying to fix it the easy way before I go to the tps.

Anywho, anyone know anywhere I can get this piece for cheap but in great (like new) shape?

Thanks in advance and drive safely,

Paul

92 Maxima SE 5spd with some good stuff

 

You can find one Here a lot easier. Just post this exact thread with the title WTB: Mass Air Flow Sensor

 

dammm man check the 3rd gen faq....i have the same car and the same problem as u...i changed my maf twice and still the samething...so am gonna try other options

 

Man, I'm not sure if you are the same guy I answered in the other thread but I would make sure its your Maf before I spent the money. If you have a buddy close to you with a Max trade with him and see if his ride picks up the problems you've been experiencing. I thought the Maf and Tps was causing all my problems too, but after getting a new Tps and overlooking the MAF (because from what I understand the problems of a bad Maf aren't consistent with hesitation and stalling, but rather limpode mode) I inspected my ignition coils and found them faulty. Picked up 2 new coils for $60 a piece at autozone (instead of $86 from the dealer) and my Max drives like a bat outa hell now! If I were you (again) check your coils and then if the problem doesn't lie there swap Maf's with a friend. Might save you $$$ on guessing.

Also, I changed the following looking for my problem: (so I speak from experience)

New Tps
New plugs
New air filter
New fuel filter
New PCV valve
New knock sensor

And I think I'm still forgeting a couple of things!

 

u got 2 coils for 60 at autozone i gotto go see them then...i checked pepboys they told me 109 a piece..i was like damm

 

My bad man, that $60 a piece. But still better than $86 or $109.

 

well thats true..am gonna go check them out tho thanks

 

I had a similar problem and after about a year I replaced 2 of my coils that had tiny hairline cracks in them. Wow like a new engine. Nice to finally fix a problem. I got them thru a discount Nissan dealer in Colorado for $57.59 a piece and $6.50 shipping. Academy Nissan. The guys name is Jay. 877-781-8429. Tell them you are calling for the internet pricing.

longer one in the back - 22448-97E00
shorter one in the front - 22448-97E05

I bought these before I knew about courtesy.

You may also want to check with Kaleb at courtesyparts.com

David

 

Same problem here, ONLY happens when engine is cold within first 10-20 minutes of driving, and that's even occasionally. Tried another MAF, got even worse. Installed new plugs, air and fuel filters, and PCV valve recently. Did all fluid flushes and fuel injectors cleaned. All these were needed regardless the problem, but none of them corrected the jerking/hesitation. Mechanics couldn't find anything visually. The next step is diagnostics, no other choice.

 

Mine has the same problem, but the nissan diagnostic machine brought up no codes. Plus, when I went there, the car wouldn't stall.

Check to see if you have Bosch plugs. They can screw with your coil packs. According to a Nissan tech I talked with, VE engines need to have NGK model PFR5C-11 platinums. The Bosch ones will "spike" your coil packs, especially under acceleration.

Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to check mine yet. I have only driven my car about 1k miles since I bought it last spring and I have been kind of busy with other stuff.

The next step is replacing the coil packs. Portdave is probably heading us in the right direction.

 

Good Lookin' out fellas on the info. I am having the same problem and it is real random when it happens. It happens more so when I am in traffic about to take off or start to slow down and get back on the gas. Next thing you know you feel like your about to drop a tranny or leave an axel. The coils sound right on. Thanks!

 

How was the install? Is it something that could be done at the house with the right tools or would you recommend other options?

 

Man, the install was a cake walk. Easier than istalling all of the above, minus the air filter of course. All you have to do is have a basic socket set. Remove the bolts holding the coils in place.(1 bolt each for the front 3 and 2 bolts each for the back 3) Pull the coils out and inspect them. To replace them, you have to pull the boot off the bottom (which is actually the hardest part) place the boot on the new coil and reverse the previous steps.

I had to fix my hesitation and stalling, because it was getting just plan dangerous. I stalled at stop light while crossing traffic (with 3 cars head for me doing about 45mph) and then stalled on the highway 3 times within 1 mile, trying to merge into traffic. My tip to you is to fix it before it gets worse.(which it alway does.) When I first bought my Max it never stalled, then stalled maybe 2 a month. It progressively gets worse.

 

If you are not sure then try and buy one of each and replace one at a time and then drive for a day and see if it fixes it. I had 2 bad ones and I could actually see tiny hairline vertical cracks in them. As soon as I replaced them - vavavoom.

Let us know anybody that solves their problem. Good luck and God bless.

David

 

Yes, it was easiy for me to tell on mine also, I had 2 cracks on each coil that ran verticaly the entire length of the coils. But that might not be the case for everybody.

 

well for me i dont even kno how the coils it self looks or where to fine them..so ill have to see a diagram or picture then i can check them to see what looks good or not

 

Hey all:

WOW, thanks so much for all the great input. I have one question though.

Let's say I replace the coils, do you think I have to replace the plugs too? Cuz a couple of you said the bosch's spike unlike the ngk's, is this a probability?

Cuz the last thing I wanna do is replace the coils and then have the plugs fry them yet again!

I'm upset cuz I thought the bosch's were gonna be good but you know whut the car ran a tad worse than with the old NGK's that were in there and they were STANDARD NGK's too, not the iridiums!!!

:-(

I beared/bore (whatever) with it cuz I put the investment in the bosch's but now this herky-jerky problem has gotten way outta hand.

It's embarrassing too when you have a female in your ride!

Anywho, lemme know when you get a chance.

Thanks again,

Paul

92 Maxima SE 5spd with some good stuff

 

Alright chek it out, this is to everyone who has this problem...CHANGE THE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR!!! I had this problem and in fact it was the same reason the car was sold to me for so little with so much put into it, the car would at times jerk and stall and when i pressed on the gas ide hear a vacuum sound but no power would get to the enigne...so one day after a few jerks, stalls, and about 30 minutes of sitting because of thinking my car was over heating I went to nissan and they said it was possibly a sensor or the computer. Went over to my boys dads tow yard, walkd to the nissan section, went to a maxima and took the first and easiest sensor off(MAF) and swapped it with my 89 and drove it and right away i knew it worked. I went to highway 4 and floored it until I was well past the 125 speedo and still with about 1300rpm to go and no problem. Its been a little less than a month and ive never had the problem again so it had to have been the MAF. And a little tip to all of you who have this problem and plan to swap with a used one...when u remove the MAF look at it and if it seems like the screens on either end look dirty/discolored/worn then its a bad sensor, if ur havin this problem just look at your sensor and you will see what im talking about. so once again, THE LOSS OF POWER, JERKING/STALLING, ANNOYINGNESS, PAIN IN THA ***, EMBARASSING PROBLEM IS YOUR MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR!!

if anyone needs this please let me know!!I can get them for 100 plus shipping!!! just gimme a PM or msg me on aim "sickwitx925". I hope this helps everybody cuz I know it woulda helpd me. Peace.

Chris

 

It was the MAF in your case. I'm glad you fixed the problem, but often it's NOT the MAF. you can't just go throwing $100 at something and hoping it'll fix the problem. if the MAF isn't working, the ECU will throw a code. you may need a scanner or servic manual to get it, but it will throw a code on the ECU.

 

VE/VG

different engine = different problem

I replaced my MAF and it didn't help.

 

Also, the MAF might be a easy sensor to get to and fix, but like said before its not always the problem. Now your offering the MAFS for $100, thats a lot of money to guess with especially if you decide to pick one up new at $425.00. THE MAF IS NOT ALWAY THE PROBLEM. It wasn't for others that have posted also.

 

Agreed. I tried two MAF's on mine and it didn't work. One made it even worse and the other one didn't work at all. This is why I tried it right in front of the junkyard where I got them from so I could get my money back. Used MAF's are $75, anyone paying $100 plus shipping will be ripped off, let alone the fact that it still might not work.

 

Exactly, I can just see some Newbie going out and buying a brand new Maf (because they know it will work) for $425 and then finding out they need to replace a couple ignition coils to slove thier problem or even worse. Their whole problem was caused by a faulty TPS ($40). Do some searching through the archives. It wouldn't be the first time this happend.

 

One thing to check on the MAF is the sensing resistor. Dirt can collect on the sensor and give the ECU a wrong reading. The result being loss of power, jerking and stalling. This is a common problem on MAF's from other makes. Simply remove the MAF and spray the resistor with carb cleaner on both sides of the resistor. This is at least a simple thing to try.

 

After reading this thread..

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=154878

..it could be a dozen things.

 

Exactly, that's why it is so important to diagnose the problem instead of just replacing parts.

 

Yeah well it would hepp if the diagnostic came up positive with something but it didn't so basically it's a hunt down the gremlin game.

I tried a couple of used MAF's and they didn't work. It might yet be the MAF but I can't afford to take a chance on a brand new one from the dealer cuz they won't take it back.

I'm gonna visually inspect the coils first and then go from there.

That said, a mechanic friend of mine said it probably isn't the coils cuz the car is running very smoothly and if it were the coils it would be running rough. Is this the case?

Anywho, I'll check for hairlines on them and if they look okay then it's onto something else.

Looking over that thread from 2002 is giving me fits. Like, what COULDN'T be the problem for crying our loud???!!!

Thanks and take it easy,

Paul

92 Maxima SE 5spd with some good stuff

 

Thats the point that alot of us have been trying to relay, "what couldn't be the problem".

Now, in my case. (and like I said I had to replace to coils) The car idled fine and ran smoothly, but would just periodicly have its fits. Which progressively got worse. So yes, it could still be the coils.

Also, by diagnose, I don't mean the ECU test, cause it never pulled up on mine either. I mean you have to logicaly and mechanicly test and elminated possible causes. Which is easiest to do IF you have a friend with a Max in good running condition.