Just pulled out the 6 injectors from my 91' I cleaned them up a bit and filed/sanded the connector pins as they all had white corrosion build up. Anyways, I tested each one and the resistance ranged from 12.4 Ohms to about 17 Ohms. I also pulsed each one with 12V to listen for the click. All were o.k. except the #5 injector clicked twice and then no more. Also the resistance was over 5M Ohm which is basically an open circuit. The #5 Cylinder was also the same one I was having problems with, so this injector is most likely the culprit. So what I wanted to know is where can I get a replacement or rebuilt injector for cheap and is there a company that can be recommended for servicing/cleaning the other injectors?

 

as far as rebuilt replacements, you can try...
directauto.com I got my replacements from there for my old 91 GXE...was like $30-40 per injector

as far as cleaning...I used cruzinperformance.com to clean a set of 450cc DSM injectors for my integra...only cost ~$44 total @ $11 per injector, good service, great guys!

 

stock resistance is between 10 and 14ohms so if there above 14 they should be replaced because thats how the you know the end is near for that injector and you proboly dont want to pull all that apart in a year to do it again

 

question for me: i have the blue injectors. i know there are a few different color injectors for a vg. which ones are interchangeable with the blue?

 

Do all six while you have it open and buy new. the remans for the 89-91 VG injectors are faiulre prone (becuase the originals had a design flaw) any one know if you can swap in the 93-94 VG injector?

 

I'd go will directauto and replace all of them, If I were you.

You can also consider replacing the harness's for the injectors, they are about $30 for 1, (you need two).

Or if you dont want to replacing the harnesses you can buy some Hydrochloric acid (sold in hardware stores as Muriatic acid). You'll need to dilute it pretty well (maybe 5:1). And make sure you wash off the hcl and dry the connector well after using it. Then use a small amount of dielectric grease of the terminals. The HCl will dissolve the corrosion pretty fast, but if your not comfortable working with acids then I would'nt reccomend it.

 

I ordered a rebuilt injector from Directauto so I should receive Fri. or Mon. Someone else had recommended RC Engineering for the injector servicing and plus they are local for me. Also, someone on ebay has the Bosch injector connectors with wire leads for like $20 for the set (6) so maybe I should just go for that. I already got my set of gaskets for the upper/lower intake, AAC, Throttle Body, etc. but does anyone know if I need to use any Gasket compond anywhere when I put this all back together?

 

RC Engineering is a great company...but there are tons of places that do ultrasonic cleaning for MUCH less and probably won't be backed up(service wise). you shouldn't need any gasket sealant(or at least I didn't use any )

 

+1 on the gasket sealer...not needed if you have the gaskets.

 

I tries Directauto and got three bad ones, 1 good one and 2 that were on the edge. Cost me another gasket set and and another Saturday. I replaced them with Nissan OEM and am VERY happy. Will never make that $350 mistake again.

 

Was that on a vg or VE motor?
If it was a vg I'm not surprised
If it was a VE I'm surprised

 

These guys were fast! They received my injectors today and finished them today as well. Only bad news was that one of the ones I sent needs to be replaced. I should have caught it before when I was measuring the Resistance. It measured about 23 Ohms but it seemed to click o.k. when I pulsed it with 12V. So I ordered another from Directauto. Hopefully their rebuilt's are o.k. I'll find out Monday.
Now regarding the corrosion on the harness connectors, a friend told me to try Battery terminal cleaner and another told me to try baking soda and water. Would those be a good idea as I'm not sure I want to mess with HydroChloric acid..

 

VG, for my '89.

 

Thinkster- I used electrical contact cleaner on mine, helped out a little by a small xacto knife to scrape a bit on the more difficult parts. Seemed to work well, and then I added some dielectric grease to help keep the corrosion out.

 

I did about the same thing using the xacto knife and electrical contact cleaner; but the cleaner didn't seem to do much. I'm sure HCL would do a great job on the contacts; but it doesn't seem practical to use with injector harness on the engine - removed in the shop would be a different matter. I added a three potentially useful twists to the injector contact cleaning operation:

* Using a set of mini machinist's files to help clean the contacts. Round needle file helped get up into the female injector plug; flat helped get junk off the male injector contacts after scraping with the xacto knife.

* Instead of dielectic grease on the contacts I used very small amounts of Kopr-Shield (hi-temp dielectric grease saturated with colliodal copper). The copper helps improve conductivity. I've found this useful on engine grounds also; incuding the ones from the injector harness. Lots of auto restoration sites praise this stuff also.
Costs $7.99 at the Eastwood Co
PDF Specs on Kopr-Shield from Thomas&Betts

* GE Silicone II adhesive to repair crumbling injector boots and keep out future dirt and moisture. Also, a very thin coat of this silicone over the surface of electrical boot rubber seems to keep it from deteriorating futher. Did this to my MAF adapter plug and starter boots about a year ago - has worked great so far. Make sure you clean the rubber with (best) wood alcohol or the silicone will not adhere because of dirt and grease.

 

Here's something handy: dimensions on the VG fuel injector clip. I'm sure you guys lose them like I did down inside the engine. Using some similar dia spring wire, I made one off these dimensions, and it fit just fine.

 

Thanks for the advise, I'll try some of those things. I tried the battery terminal cleaner yesterday, but it was kind of a foam spray rather then liquidy, so I didn't seem to eat the corrosion as the terminal inside the connector was still green afterwards. If only the female terminals were bigger/wider, it would be a lot easier to get in there!

 

Not surprised.

 

Got my connectors on the harness cleaned today! I used a combination of things. First a toothbrush with baking soda/water solution, then a small flat needle or jewlers file, then blew the crap out with a compressor. Finally used Xacto knife to scrape the rest of the green corrosion stuff out then sprayed in there with terminal cleaner. Time consumming, but I see copper color now. Just gotta go buy some dielectric grease now. I ended up doing the MAF, TS, AAC connectors as well. I guess this green corrosion is a common problem when the Max's get to be this age...

 

i believe it comes from water.

 

That green corrosion is called the 'green scrouge' and happens with all unprotected copper connections. You might consider the Kopr-Sheild instead of the dialectric grease - it's specs says it's specically designed to fight 'green scrouge' plus the copper lowers the resistance by enhacing conductivity.

Glad to hear about the baking soda followed by (battery?) terminal cleaner - I may have to go back and try it. My efforts with electronic spray contac cleaner, machinist's files, and xacto scraping still left some green scrouge in places; especially inside the wire crimps for the injector connector contacs.

 

UPDATE:

Finished up the job last Friday. Ended up doing a lot of extra stuff like replacing vacuum hoses and air lines and thourough cleaning while I had the intake manifold off. Anyways, I got the 4 serviced injectors (RC Engineering) and the 2 refurb injectors (directauto) Installed and used di-electric grease on all the connectors (fuel injector, MAF, TPS, AAC). Well, my weekend test drive went good! It is so much smoother now! I think the biggest pain in the a** on this job was removing the original glued on gasket of the Throttle Body Elbow, everything else went fairly smoothly, just time consuming.

 

Sounds great!- Always good to have things work right, especially when you put a lot of time into them. Congrats!