I have a '92SE 135,000 miles that has had trouble starting the past 3 days and today would not start at all. The symptoms are as follows:

Upon turning key to ACC, dash lights go on and radio comes on. Upon turning key to ON hear CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK GRR GRR GRR GRR. I turn the key back to off, wait a few seconds and try again GRR GRR GRR VROOM and it starts. This happened both times I started the car Monday. The four times I used it Tuesday and Wednesday I dont specifically remember the clicking but definitely the same hard start with all the GRR'ing before the engine finally catches.

The reason why I didn't do anything about it right away is because I am in the middle of midterms.

This morning I try and start the car and I get the usual GRR GRR ... but no VROOM. I try over and over with no luck. Finally I remember hearing something about stepping on the gas pedal as you start the car having to do with flooding (or unflooding?) the engine and I figured (stupidly) that it was worth a try. After doing so when I turn the key I only hear one weak GRR as soon as the key turns and thats it.

Up until this point I'm thinking the problem has something to do with my starter or my fuel lines (I'm not too familiar with the detailed workings of everything) but tonight I start wondering if its my battery and I check the voltage of the battery and its a measly 10.6 volts and the positive terminal is completely corroted with fresh blue gunk.

So now I wonder if the battery died from all my attempts to start this morning, or if that was part of the problem from the beginning? I will try and jump my car with my wife's car in the morning and if it starts I'll hope the problem is battery related but if not I'm going to continue thinking its my starter. Whats the best way to clean off battery terminal corrosion? I've included a picture.



Also, based on the sounds and progression of the problem does anyone have any hunches as to what the problem might be?

Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ezra

p.s.- Is the circular device (on the right of the engine when looking in from the front, on the left in the picture below) my starter? It sounds like a rather easy thing to replace and I'd like to try if thats my problem. I have the FSM and Chilton's but its difficult to tell from their diagrams where the starter is ...

 

Your battery is probably on its last legs. The problem is definetly battery related, I'd say clean off the terminals and connectors, and give it a good charge and see what happens before going out and replacing it, unless you dont mind just buying a new one.

Also, that is your Cam Position Sensor. Your starter will be connected to your transmission. It will be on top if its an auto, or in the front near the radiator if its a 5spd.

 

Yep, def sounds like battery... Most batteries last 24 - 36 months - if you're lucky and maintain them right (which is why they're only guaranteed for upto 24 months).
Most people forget about the battery when they do there service - you should check the water level in spring & fall as batteries neither like the heat or the cold.
Even "maintenance free" batteries are not truly maintenance free - you can remove the sticker to get to the plate covers & top up the chambers with water (distilled, preferably).
To clean battery posts, use a post cleaning tool or wire brush & coat with petroleum jelly (vaseline).
To quickly remove the "gunk", pour hot water over the battery post.
Finally, if you don't know what a starter motor looks like, AYE CARUMBA

 

Try some coke.

No wonder you're having trouble starting.

 

Try some coke as in soda? For cleaning off the terminal?

I cleaned off the inside of the clamps and the terminals with a toothbrush, a putty knife, and some steel wool - its all I had on hand. Once I jumped the car it started perfectly and I took it to Sears so they can check if the battery was dead or if it was my alternator not charging the battery. He hooked it up to some load testing machine and saw that when the machine put the battery under a load the alternator didn't kick in and recommended I take it to a specialty shop for electrical stuff to have them verify it and get a new alternator. The guy at Sears was really honest and friendly and he didn't even charge me anything for the diagnostic was great. So its at the specialty shop right now and I'm awaiting their verdict.

Too bad it wasn't just the battery, it would have been much cheaper. The interesting thing was that before the jump the battery has 10.6 volts across it, while the car was running it had about 14V and after I turned off the car it was back at 12.57V. I guess it got that charge from the jump and not the alternator but how did it get to 14V while it was running?

Thanks for all your help,
Ezra

 

yup.
14V is what the alternaor is supposed to be putting out give a volt or so.
so chances are the alternator is ok. the battery probably wasn't charging well because of all of the corossion.
BTW a regular repair shop can easily diagnose and repair the problem you didn't need to go to a speciality shop.

 

You were right, Sears misdiagnosed the problem, the alternator was fine, they said 2 cells of the battery were shorted from old age and it died. I'm just glad the Sears technician was kind enough to tell me to go somewhere else rather than putting in the alternator themselves and make me waste money and time.

I don't know if specialty shop is the right term, its an ADELCO place that focuses on Batteries, Alternators, and Starters. The 65 Month warrantied Power Volt battery cost more than a Sears battery would ($62.95) but they didn't charge for me all of the diagnostics they ran on my Battery/Alternator/Starter. In a way it makes sense to take it to an expert because even if it costs more, they can work quicker and with more assurance than your average mechanic.

My only question now is whether or not the Power Volt battery is maintenance free. I forgot to ask the technician and I see there are 6 plastic "screws" on top of the battery which my old battery didn't have. Does this mean I'll have to maintain it like checking water levels and specific gravity etc.?



Thanks for all the help and tips,
Ezra

 

now that you have a new battery spray the terminals with a battery protector like permatex SA-9 (80370) that will help prevent the corosion that you had before.

 

Yep. Check your cells at least twice a year - in spring & fall. You don't need to use distilled water for topping up - I've been using tap water for past 18 years with no problems. Use it if you're trying to save a cell or two.
Quite common to get "corrosion" on battery terminals - it's a by-product of the charging process. Wouldn't recommend using coke as a cleanup solution - not sure how it reacts to painted surfaces over time. Use hot water - it's cheaper!