OK, first of all, I am super ****ed of, so If I say something stupid, let it slide. Anyways, so some of you know about my car misfiring and have told me to check injectors/coils. Anyways, so this dude is checking out my car at the shop, does the same crap I was doing. Unplugging the sparkplug wires while the engines running. This is AFTER we checked all the compression and all were good, 120 i think was the number, anyways. All made the engine drop except the far left one on the vavle cover. I dunno if thats the first cylinder or not, anyways we think that the thing that goes between the wires and the actual plug (i dont know the name sorry) is bad. So we give autozone a call and they say they are on their way. I went back to my place to get money, and its raining. And all the sudden my ****ing windows FALLS DOWN. ITS RAINING! Hello god? And of course, each 10 seconds or so its rains harder, perfect timing! So by the time I get back to the shop I am super ****ed off. Autozone comes and they are like, well we got 6 of em, $44. Im thinking, ok something isnt right, that is too cheap, and OF COURSE its the wrong part. I dunno if they got GXE or what but it looked a lot different. I have to wait till Monday to get ANYTHING. I want to kill someone.

peace

 

Oh forgot to say, we checked the MAF by unplugging it while the engine was running, and of course it killed the engine, so apparently its not dead. He said the "ticking lifters" might be causing the misfire, but I told him about how its been ticking for a loooong time and I didnt wanna sit there and teach him about VTC's. Anyways, that sparkplug connector deal seems to be the problem. Comments?

 

I believe your talking about your ignition coils, they connect to the spark plugs.

 

yeah thats ur problem right there its the coil that is between the spark plug and the wires thats the same thing that was my problem too tell u what u can do to check if its missfiring..take out the whole thing leaving the plub in then use it to touch the valve cover while the car is running if it sparks then u kno u need to replace it or u can get some eletrical or pipe sealing tape and tape where its cracked untill u get new coils thats what my mechanic did and now my car runs fine...i gotto get new coils soon tho..but try that ok man..i feel ur pain ask matt93 i was flaming about my car too untill we found the problem

 

These are were your ignition coils are. Same problem here too. I had to replace two of them, and my Max is driving like new now. The top left one is the 1st cylinder.

 

Oh, and you can get a new window regulator from courtesy nissan for about $60. They are on ebay, too. Mine did the same thing. I went around a corner and BAM, the window dropped into the door. Luckily it wasn't raining, but I did have to leave it at work with it down and I had to wait a week to get my new one.

 

You are actually talking about the boots on the coils.
They are not available seperately.
AZ should be about $60 ea on the coils.
3 front 3 rear
I got anyreg available for $45 + shipping if you want.
I'm still looking for a good source on coils.

 

switch the coils around? see if the missing cylinder changes or stays. if it stays it caan be ur injectors. if it changes then it is ur coils. supposebly (sp?) r known for fail injectors

 

yeah i hope you tested that coil to make sure because you could of just wasted 60 buck if its an injector

 

OK, Ill try that stuff out guys. And the window problem apparently was that the belt just slipped off cause the motor and everything works fine, it popped off. Me trying to get it back up made it come off the track. Its back on track now, just held up by cardboard till Monday.

 

You think.
The reg is a seperately replaceable piece from the motor and even if it looks good it can still be bad. one of mine looked good but it was bad. replaced it and now i got 4 functional windows

 

I keep some clear duct tape in my car to temp hold the window up if a regulator fails. I've had two fail, and of course one was also on a day with lots of rain.

 

Dont you love it? lol
Anyways, you guys think the belt didnt slip off? you think the regulator died? Even though the track goes up and down and everything?

 

is it going up and down by the switch?
and does it stay up?
Mine would go up but slip back down slowly.
So i just swapped it out for a new one $45

 

when it happened, pushing the switch would make the window go up and then it was just fall, not slide slowly, fall straight back down. I think it was off its hanger though. But the switch does move the hanger up and down. They said it was just the pulley that was off

 

Oh also while im talking about this. He said my motormounts are bad or getting bad. He said thats what was causing the bad jerk when I shift into Drive or Reverse. He looked at them to make sure and said they were bad. Does this sound right? also, how much are they and how many will I need?? Thanks a ton guys you are making me not hate my max as much as usual

 

Ive replaced all four regulators now. If you havent replaced them yet..might as well replace them before they break. Everytime one fell , it was at a badd time. I got them all from courtesy and they get to my door in about 3 days. I can do the switch with my eyes closed now..lol

 

Yup motormounts can do that

 

Anyone know pricing on the motormounts?

 

Check the dealer
the VE mounts are unavailable through the aftermarket

 

The guy is checking in state and out of state junk yards for the motormounts, and the coils or whatever those black things are. He also said that if I only replace one of the coils, and not all 6, that the others would probably go bad within 3 weeks. They cost $66 new EACH, so thats kinda out of the question. Hopefully the yards will have some stuff. I have a question though. He said its save to drive it on 5 cylinders until Its fixed, just keep it within the area, no roadtripping ya know. But the thing thats bothering me is that vibration. With bad motormounts already, thats probably not helping at all. So would unplugging the cylinder across from the bad one fix the vibration?? Thanks guys...

 

It'll only make it worse and increase the damage that you are already doing to the engine

 

Well I said a lot of comments, WHAT will increase the damage, thanks

 

A dead cylinder will have a higher rate of wear than a functional one.
Not mention the damage to your gas mileage

 

OK, but that didnt answer my question, will it stop the vibration? I didnt say I was gonna actually kill another cylinder, but I am curious, since I dont really work on cars much...

 

Get the new coil. Just because one goes does not mean that the others are going to go in the next three weeks. Replace the one that needs to be replaced and do the others when they come up if you don't have the money or inclination do all of them now. However, first make sure that it is the coil. Like someone else here had said, move the coil to another position for a ghetto-troubleshoot. Another method is to ohm out the injector. Resistance should be between 10 and 14 ohms according to the FSM.

Disconnecting another cylinder most likely will not fix the vibration. If anything, when you look at the firing order, it will make it much worse. However, there are more engine-intelligent people here who could answer that much better than I.

$60.00 at AutoZone and about 10 minutes of your time--if it is the coil.

 

I just added coils to my list

 

I got prices on Motor Mounts, I think he said $65 for all of em. That sound right?

 

Sounds awfully cheap to me

 

that disturbs me to hear you say that =( apparently $45 was the junk yard price. Just how below the average price are you talkin?

 

Depends on the mount. All 4 combined list for about $340 (Dealer) and figure average discount of 20% so that's still about $270 for all 4.
If you're lucky it's just the rear mount and that's a cheapie $35 list