While driving I could tell the pads on the left side were worn out really bad so I am attempting to replace them on my own (for the first time). Everything was pretty easy but now I have the put the new pads and I do not know how to compress the piston so that I cant put everything back together. At first I was thinking I had bought the wrong pads that were just too big but I dont think that is the problem. Below is a link to pics can you help me out please!!! www.geocities.com/azmalu/brakes.html

 

There is a special tool to compress them.
Anyway take a wood plate, clip it from one end and push from another (leave this end longer - so you need to apply less effort).
That's about it.

When pads are istalled and push the brake pedal for the first time you'll hear brakes re-calibrating ... it's normal.

I've done my breakes (front and rear) last year and it took about 2 hours (rear ones are real $$$ - you need a special tool to compress ... (don't do them by yourself - just an advice).

 

i could really use that tool because I have no idea what to do with a wood plate to get that thing to budge!!! I read the diy directions from 4dsc but didnt realize there was a tool needed that I didnt have

 

Do you have a C clamp? That is all I ever use. I assume you're talking about the front disc brakes since you have drums. As for the fronts, all I do when changing the pads is use a C clamp. It's EASY. All you do is leave your old brake pad on, clamp the C clamp to it and start turning that thing. The caliper piston will move in. Keep doing that until it's all the way in. Keep an eye on the piston since the boot sometimes will bind up on you. After you have the piston moved completely in, then you will have room for the new pads. Install the shims that came with it and LOTS of anti squeal compound. Smear it around with your finger and get a nice thick layer on there. Something like a 1/16" thick. Coat both sides of the shim. After that, bolt it all together and pump the brakes a few times.

DO NOT touch the brakes until you have everything bolted back up and ready to go. I really hope this helps. If you have any more questions, please ask.

:edit: I just read the 4dsc write up. It says something about a C clamp and a steel plate. Well I just use the old worn pad for this steel plate to bridge across the piston. You'll get it. The first time is hardest, but after that, you will be able to do it in your sleep.

 

My project for tomorrow is to change front pads and rear rotors and pads. It'll be my first time trying it too....

 

I hope you do know that the rear ones require not just pushing to compress but also you need to turn it ... if you don't have a brake comprssor tool - even don't start ... again, just an advice

 

hmm, ok. my dad claims he knows how to do it, but just in case, will the local autozone have the brake compressor tool? thanks for the warning

 

okay yall now i understand the deal with the c clamp. bascailly put your old pads back in and use the c clam to tighten it together until the piston goes all the way in. once its done so pull out the old ones and put the new ones in.

 

The only special tool you might need is the c-clamp as the previous poster suggested - that would work very well and a pair of long needle nose pliers. I've had my 93 since new and have replaced the brakes 3 or 4 times. Just did the rear's last week. BTW, I've never replaced or surfaced the rotors as I've been real careful to change pads before damage is done. Just use an wet/dry sandpaper to clean 'em up some.
Front - I used one of those woodworking spring clamps. After I remove the old pads, I clamp the spring clamp onto the piston and caliper and while that is slowly retracting the piston I go and smear the new pads and shims with disc brake quiet and get them ready to go on the car. By the time I'm done with this, the piston is usually fully retracted - remove the clamp and install the new ones.
Rear - after you pull the old pads, to retract the piston you need a good pair of long needle nose pliers. There are four 'indentations' on the surface of the piston (you'll see 'em and know exactly what I'm talking about) for your tool to grip the piston. Grab the piston on 2 of those indentations and rotate the piston clockwise while applying some pressure to the piston. This will retract the piston into the caliper. It'll take a bunch of turns to get it fully retracted. Be careful not to bugger up the surface of the piston (I don't think this would matter anyway). Also when retracting either the front or rear watch the rubber boot and make sure it doesn't bunch up (especially the rear since you're turning the piston).
That's it. I've got this procedure down to where the worst part is jacking up the freakin' car!

 

look all i use is either a c-clamp or a BIG pair of chanel locks. just push the cylender in slow and strait and youll be ok, brakes are a real easy job to do. VTC's now that another story.

 

yeah the autozone near me has it so i guess all of them do.

 

[QUOTE=longjuanfeng]
Rear - after you pull the old pads, to retract the piston you need a good pair of long needle nose pliers. There are four 'indentations' on the surface of the piston (you'll see 'em and know exactly what I'm talking about) for your tool to grip the piston. Grab the piston on 2 of those indentations and rotate the piston clockwise while applying some pressure to the piston. This will retract the piston into the caliper. It'll take a bunch of turns to get it fully retracted. Be careful not to bugger up the surface of the piston (I don't think this would matter anyway). Also when retracting either the front or rear watch the rubber boot and make sure it doesn't bunch up (especially the rear since you're turning the piston).
QUOTE]

Hey thanks everyone for info on how to replace pads and rotors. I did them today with minimal trouble. The biggest problem I had was getting my left rear caliper bolted on after replacing the rotor. The needle nose pliers trick for the rear piston worked great. It took my dad and I about 2 1/2 hours...but he watched football most of the time

I got my brembo rotors and pads from internetautomar. The came the day after I ordered them and got a great price. I recommend getting parts from him, he's a good guy. Danke.

 

Glad to hear it
thanks for the endorsement.

 

I used a big pair of channel locks once and ended up chipping the piston.

 

Using the special brake caliper compressing tool makes the job so much easier. When I did my rear brakes I had to just use some huge needle nose pliars, which takes longer but it does get the job done.
I also had a problem with the caliper boot getting stuck, so I had to lube the boot well to keep it from getting twisted.