Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Well, kinda. I have a Sus. Techn. rear sway. I hit a bump and the rear started rattling! I looked, nothing. It still did it though! I crawled up under the back and noticed there are two stabalizers which run from the bar to the frame and attach to a bracket. The one on the driver's side had ripped out of the bracket! I took it home, drilled a new hole (broke a bit doing it!) and put it back in. I drilled the hole off to the side where the bracket angles off. I thought the swivel joint could take it so I kept what I had done. After I put it in, it looked like I had drilled it too high, the swivel joint hit was touching the frame. Driving now, it feels like when the rear driver's side wheel goes over a bump, it bounces repeatedly like the strut is bad. Maybe it's just me. But, what does this stabalizer support actually do? And what kinda problems will I have if I leave it alone up against the frame? Otherwise, it can move relatively freely.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

you did heart surgery w/ a chain saw. all u needed to do was add a larger (huge) washer sandwiched the frame mount. tighten the frame link as tight as u can and you're home free. the rear sway bar will help u control the car in turns and over steer and under steer condition. since you took additional material off the bracket now it's even weaker. what you can do now is go to a shop and have them weld a plate there w/ a hole in the correct location and bolt the frame links in.
if you leave it you can eventually wear a hole in the metal frame and cause rust. or scuff up the sway bar and rust that..also add to the noise factor since it's consistently hitting it.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Thanks Danny, but I think you misunderstood. When the swivel joint broke out of the bracket, the bottom of the hole where the joint originally attached was completely gone. I COULDN'T had added a washer or I would had. I had to drill another hole, it was just at an odd angle, that's why I broke a drill bit doing it and got it a little close to the frame. I also don't know what you mean by from link? There is the frame, then there is the bracket hanging down that is welded to the frame. The swival joint at one end bolts to the bracket, then on the other end attaches to a rod that runs down and attaches to the sway bar. To make my question easier I suppose.....preventing the swivel joint from being able to move as freely, what will this do, anything? The sway bar did seem to sit closer to the bottom of the undercarriage (spare tire well) than usual. Of course the hole I drilled is about a half inch higher than normal too. Any forseeable problems guys?

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

i know what u mean..the same problem happened to me on the pass side. you can actually slide the swivel joint out w/o unbolting it fully. i added bigger washers so it'll bite on a bigger part of the frame bracket (part u drilled the hole into). took my impact wrench and screwed that back in. it's been a few months and not one peep from it, in NYC potholes twice a day too. you just need to get a big washer and a spring/split washer to hold tension. maybe you can still try that now since you have nothing to lose. i got huge washers..(the ones i didn't used for shocks on another car [buick century rear strut]). it's about 1.5 inch in dia. you may need to trim off a edge to make it fit but it fits for me perfect and no probs to date.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Or you could do the other thing he suggested and actually replace the bracket that comes down off the frame:

<img src=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/sway_bars/rsb_mount_2.jpg>

I'm assuming that's what happened to yours too. if so, just cut as close to the frame as you can with a hacksaw, then use some self-tapping screws and screw a piece of angle iron on top of the ols spot.. drill the hole in it before you mount it on there, and get the new hole as close to the position of the old one as you can. it will help keep tension off the sway bar (and brackets) when the car is level...
could very well help keep the other side from ripping off too.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

yup i though of that too. mine wasn't ripped as bad as how it looks in the picture. what i would do if it was as bad as yours, i would sandwich stainless steel around the ripped part. drill 3 holes in both sides. 2 small ones to press them together and one bigger one for the link. but i guess if it doesn't make a noise then it's all good.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I really appreciate it! Matt, is there anything you DON'T have a picture of? Geeez! By the way, mine looked worse than that! You can see in the pic how the bracket closer to the rear turns toward the side of the car? That is where I drilled the new hole, it was just a little high and the joint rubs the frame. But, no noise! Just needed to know the implications! Matt and Danny are the man!