Fuel pump dying? help. . . .
11-10-2003, 09:46 AM
#1
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Fuel pump dying? help. . . .
This morning on the way to work, my '92 Maxima started acting as if it was running out of gas. On the highway between 1800-2500 rpm, the engine would not respond to the accelerator; no power at all, until I floored it and the engine pulled quite well. It felt like either a terrible ignition miss or no fuel. I also noticed that when I slowed down, there was heavy surging and the occasional pop sound from under the hood (similar to a backfire). after about 10 minutes the problems disappeared, only to come back again about 15 minutes later. The plugs and fuel filter are new. Are these signs of my fuel pump dying, or maybe a bad bit of fuel (I doubt that though, I'm at 1/4 tank, and the other 3/4 seemed o.k.)
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
11-10-2003, 09:51 AM
#3
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Well hook up a fuel pressure guage and verify.
Thanks.
11-10-2003, 10:15 AM
#4
Originally Posted by chris92
Sure, I'm doing that tonight anyhow, but the popping sound freaked me out a bit. I guess I was just looking for some reasurace that it's not anything serious, based on other people's experiences.
Thanks.
Thanks.
OR don't drive so aggressively
11-17-2003, 09:19 AM
#5
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Update. . .
Originally Posted by chris92
This morning on the way to work, my '92 Maxima started acting as if it was running out of gas. On the highway between 1800-2500 rpm, the engine would not respond to the accelerator; no power at all, until I floored it and the engine pulled quite well. It felt like either a terrible ignition miss or no fuel. I also noticed that when I slowed down, there was heavy surging and the occasional pop sound from under the hood (similar to a backfire). after about 10 minutes the problems disappeared, only to come back again about 15 minutes later. The plugs and fuel filter are new. Are these signs of my fuel pump dying, or maybe a bad bit of fuel (I doubt that though, I'm at 1/4 tank, and the other 3/4 seemed o.k.)
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
11-17-2003, 09:45 AM
#6
Originally Posted by chris92
I verified that the pump pressure is o.k., and it still seems to be doing the same thing . Again this morning after 30 minutes on the highway, after a short rest, it went away. When it was bucking and surging, I did notice a real strong smell, like burning oil. Somehow it seems that the engine is picking up oil from the p.c.v. system? (plugged p.c.v.?) I'll check tonight. Also, I wonder if this is an egr problem. I noticed lots of threads about this that related to maf sensors gone bad. What's real strange is the fact then when I floor it, it takes off like a rocket (or as wel as any other vg). This rules out a lack of fuel pressure. I've since refilled with fresh fuel, so that rules out my "bad fuel" idea. Any help is appreciated.
when was your last tune up?
and you could have failing injectors
11-17-2003, 09:51 AM
#7
Verify the following:
1) As you said, check that the PCV valve is not stuck open/closed. Shake it. If it rattles, it's "probably" okay. But I say just spend the $2 to change it.
2) Check that the EGR is not stuck. You can usually put two fingers under it and see if the diaphgram portion moves up/down. Or you can give the vacuum hose some vacuum to see if moves.
3) Fuel filter?
1) As you said, check that the PCV valve is not stuck open/closed. Shake it. If it rattles, it's "probably" okay. But I say just spend the $2 to change it.
2) Check that the EGR is not stuck. You can usually put two fingers under it and see if the diaphgram portion moves up/down. Or you can give the vacuum hose some vacuum to see if moves.
3) Fuel filter?
11-17-2003, 10:52 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
Do you have any leaks?
when was your last tune up?
and you could have failing injectors
when was your last tune up?
and you could have failing injectors
11-18-2003, 09:00 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Verify the following:
1) As you said, check that the PCV valve is not stuck open/closed. Shake it. If it rattles, it's "probably" okay. But I say just spend the $2 to change it.
2) Check that the EGR is not stuck. You can usually put two fingers under it and see if the diaphgram portion moves up/down. Or you can give the vacuum hose some vacuum to see if moves.
3) Fuel filter?
1) As you said, check that the PCV valve is not stuck open/closed. Shake it. If it rattles, it's "probably" okay. But I say just spend the $2 to change it.
2) Check that the EGR is not stuck. You can usually put two fingers under it and see if the diaphgram portion moves up/down. Or you can give the vacuum hose some vacuum to see if moves.
3) Fuel filter?
-EGR valve
-PCV valve
-Fuel pressure
-New fuel filter, plugs
-Wires and cap are in good shape
-Ran Self-Diagnostic Mode; No codes
-02 sensor has about 50000 kms on it ( I was told that it won't throw a code until it totally dies, but can operate poorly without showing a code.)
I did notice something, on the VG there is a black vacuum canister next to the master cylinder with 2 vacuum hoses. One of the hoses was disconnected from the manifold, and when I plugged it back in, the vacuum actuator that operates the manifold's internal throttle blades began to work. This is probably unrelated, but at this point, I'll try anything. The car didn't act up this morning, but the traffic conditions weren't the same (slower speeds). I'm wondering if this is a vacuum related problem, because when it acts up, I can floor the gas pedal (engine @ 0Hg/In vacuum), the car accelerates fine.
11-18-2003, 11:29 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by probmxstyle
I am having the same exact same problem as you are. I am even getting the popping sound. The dealer told me it was the MAF sensor. So i am going to order one from a junkyard search.
11-19-2003, 07:09 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by chris92
So far I've verified the following:
-EGR valve
-PCV valve
-Fuel pressure
-New fuel filter, plugs
-Wires and cap are in good shape
-Ran Self-Diagnostic Mode; No codes
-02 sensor has about 50000 kms on it ( I was told that it won't throw a code until it totally dies, but can operate poorly without showing a code.)
I did notice something, on the VG there is a black vacuum canister next to the master cylinder with 2 vacuum hoses. One of the hoses was disconnected from the manifold, and when I plugged it back in, the vacuum actuator that operates the manifold's internal throttle blades began to work. This is probably unrelated, but at this point, I'll try anything. The car didn't act up this morning, but the traffic conditions weren't the same (slower speeds). I'm wondering if this is a vacuum related problem, because when it acts up, I can floor the gas pedal (engine @ 0Hg/In vacuum), the car accelerates fine.
-EGR valve
-PCV valve
-Fuel pressure
-New fuel filter, plugs
-Wires and cap are in good shape
-Ran Self-Diagnostic Mode; No codes
-02 sensor has about 50000 kms on it ( I was told that it won't throw a code until it totally dies, but can operate poorly without showing a code.)
I did notice something, on the VG there is a black vacuum canister next to the master cylinder with 2 vacuum hoses. One of the hoses was disconnected from the manifold, and when I plugged it back in, the vacuum actuator that operates the manifold's internal throttle blades began to work. This is probably unrelated, but at this point, I'll try anything. The car didn't act up this morning, but the traffic conditions weren't the same (slower speeds). I'm wondering if this is a vacuum related problem, because when it acts up, I can floor the gas pedal (engine @ 0Hg/In vacuum), the car accelerates fine.
Just for kicks, I checked the ignition coil resistance. The manual calls for "approximately" 1 ohm, and I checked it 3 different times and got between 1.6 to 2,1 ohms, I wonder if the coil is on it's way out? I'm beginning to suspect the 02 sensor.
11-19-2003, 07:24 PM
#14
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i just started having the same problems today, i have a VE though..that black canister you're talking about, i have it on the strut tower, i plugged it in and the idle was funny, fluctuating between 700 and 1600rpm.
part throttle driving is ridiculous and it takes alot of throttle to get it to go right, the problem i have with that is, my motor is just a baby, 114 miles on it so far so i'd highly doubt its internal related. i have been having electrical problems so i'm thinking it could be the TPS but when my TPS went bad before it was nothing like this.
be sure to post up if you find the solution, i'll do the same.
part throttle driving is ridiculous and it takes alot of throttle to get it to go right, the problem i have with that is, my motor is just a baby, 114 miles on it so far so i'd highly doubt its internal related. i have been having electrical problems so i'm thinking it could be the TPS but when my TPS went bad before it was nothing like this.
be sure to post up if you find the solution, i'll do the same.
11-21-2003, 07:35 AM
#15
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anyone find anything new? i'm still having the stuttering problem but it doesnt seem to be as often or as bad..it typically happens in 2nd gear when i punch it, under high load in 3rd, 4th and 5th. never a problem in first which i find odd. its also not all the time which makes me think its something electrical. i'd highly doubt if its pinging/knocking but it could be the knock sensor but again, for some reason i doubt it.
11-21-2003, 08:25 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
Have you checked your injectors yet?
They have a very high tendancy to go weird.
They have a very high tendancy to go weird.
11-21-2003, 08:50 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
Have you checked your injectors yet?
They have a very high tendancy to go weird.
They have a very high tendancy to go weird.
11-25-2003, 06:54 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by chris92
I verifed that the MAF is working o.k. last night with a voltmeter.
Just for kicks, I checked the ignition coil resistance. The manual calls for "approximately" 1 ohm, and I checked it 3 different times and got between 1.6 to 2,1 ohms, I wonder if the coil is on it's way out? I'm beginning to suspect the 02 sensor.
Just for kicks, I checked the ignition coil resistance. The manual calls for "approximately" 1 ohm, and I checked it 3 different times and got between 1.6 to 2,1 ohms, I wonder if the coil is on it's way out? I'm beginning to suspect the 02 sensor.
11-25-2003, 10:35 AM
#20
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[long]
Originally Posted by chris92
The latest thing I tested was the TPS, and it was o.k. I'm beginning to suspect the tons of ground cables from te engine to the chassis; they don'y look too healthy. Other than that, maybe the 02 sensor. I still have the occasional stumble, it lasts for about 5 minutes, then goes away. Anyone have any new experiences or developments?
a few days ago my car started idling at 2000rpm for whatever reason..i wasnt in a position to fix it at the time so i eventually drove it home and reconnected a vac hose..made no difference, let it sit for a few hours before i went to work and it was idling at 1800, steady. the numbers i'm giving are warm idle by the way..
get out of work, still 1800, next day, same thing. so i diddled with the TPS, got it down to 1400 and now it goes somewhere between 750 and 1400(depending on its mood i guess). the strange thing is, now that its idling higher, the stutter is gone. it still bucks slightly when decelerating in gear above 2000rpm, but its not bad.
the only other thing i did was add a full bottle of redline injector cleaner and a full tank of 93octane from mobil. i'm going to replace all my old vac lines this weekend and order a new oxygen sensor within 2 weeks..also my thermostat is stuck slightly open so it takes forever for the car to warm up, and if i'm on the highway, it cools right back down..but i have another one sitting in my backseat, maybe i'll do that today.
also i have tons and tons of electrical wierdness, and that'll hopefully get figured out on wednesday.
11-25-2003, 11:01 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by MaDMaX024
actually i do.
a few days ago my car started idling at 2000rpm for whatever reason..i wasnt in a position to fix it at the time so i eventually drove it home and reconnected a vac hose..made no difference, let it sit for a few hours before i went to work and it was idling at 1800, steady. the numbers i'm giving are warm idle by the way..
get out of work, still 1800, next day, same thing. so i diddled with the TPS, got it down to 1400 and now it goes somewhere between 750 and 1400(depending on its mood i guess). the strange thing is, now that its idling higher, the stutter is gone. it still bucks slightly when decelerating in gear above 2000rpm, but its not bad.
the only other thing i did was add a full bottle of redline injector cleaner and a full tank of 93octane from mobil. i'm going to replace all my old vac lines this weekend and order a new oxygen sensor within 2 weeks..also my thermostat is stuck slightly open so it takes forever for the car to warm up, and if i'm on the highway, it cools right back down..but i have another one sitting in my backseat, maybe i'll do that today.
also i have tons and tons of electrical wierdness, and that'll hopefully get figured out on wednesday.
a few days ago my car started idling at 2000rpm for whatever reason..i wasnt in a position to fix it at the time so i eventually drove it home and reconnected a vac hose..made no difference, let it sit for a few hours before i went to work and it was idling at 1800, steady. the numbers i'm giving are warm idle by the way..
get out of work, still 1800, next day, same thing. so i diddled with the TPS, got it down to 1400 and now it goes somewhere between 750 and 1400(depending on its mood i guess). the strange thing is, now that its idling higher, the stutter is gone. it still bucks slightly when decelerating in gear above 2000rpm, but its not bad.
the only other thing i did was add a full bottle of redline injector cleaner and a full tank of 93octane from mobil. i'm going to replace all my old vac lines this weekend and order a new oxygen sensor within 2 weeks..also my thermostat is stuck slightly open so it takes forever for the car to warm up, and if i'm on the highway, it cools right back down..but i have another one sitting in my backseat, maybe i'll do that today.
also i have tons and tons of electrical wierdness, and that'll hopefully get figured out on wednesday.
11-26-2003, 07:36 AM
#22
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Posts: 2,105
Originally Posted by chris92
Just a thought, but your Idle Air Control Valve may need a cleaning, if the plunger can't seat fully because of crud build-up, the idle wil be higher. I've heard elsewhere that with all of the ground straps that these cars had, the possibility of a poor ground is likely. I know my straps are pretty corroded looking. I even think I saw one of the moderators on this site selling a ground strap kit. I'll keep plugging away and hopefully I'll find something.
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