Info on bypassing knock sensor?
Info on bypassing knock sensor?
I saw on an earlier thread that Craig Brace had a writeup on how to bypass it, using a 470K ohm resistor, but I couldn't find the writeup on his site (Nice site btw, lots of great info)
That being said... anyone have a link to it? IE, I just missed it on his site? Or if its not there, any other write ups on it?
Thanks.
That being said... anyone have a link to it? IE, I just missed it on his site? Or if its not there, any other write ups on it?
Thanks.
not on my site
I haven't done it, but I know you do use a 470k resistor just use it to bridge two terminals on the connector that goes to the knock sensor (you put it on the side going to the ECU), but I'm not sure excatly where that connector is in the engine bay
if search is working now, you should be able to find more info, but I dont think it is
I haven't done it, but I know you do use a 470k resistor just use it to bridge two terminals on the connector that goes to the knock sensor (you put it on the side going to the ECU), but I'm not sure excatly where that connector is in the engine bay
if search is working now, you should be able to find more info, but I dont think it is
Originally Posted by «§»Craig B«§»
not on my site
I haven't done it, but I know you do use a 470k resistor just use it to bridge two terminals on the connector that goes to the knock sensor (you put it on the side going to the ECU), but I'm not sure excatly where that connector is in the engine bay
if search is working now, you should be able to find more info, but I dont think it is
I haven't done it, but I know you do use a 470k resistor just use it to bridge two terminals on the connector that goes to the knock sensor (you put it on the side going to the ECU), but I'm not sure excatly where that connector is in the engine bay
if search is working now, you should be able to find more info, but I dont think it is
If I'm not mistaken, Craig, I think the harness is coming out from the driver's side - underneath the intake manifold.
But, as usual, WTF do I know??
Yes, you just bridge the female (upper) connector with the 470K ohm resistor. I was experiencing hesitation, poor acceleration and bad fuel economy on my 94 Max SE with 123K miles. I pulled the KS connector and used a 510K ohm 1/2 watt resistor (didn't have the 470K ohm handy), and holy cow!! what a difference. The car accelerates like a bat outta hell and is fun to drive again! I left the timing stock, and I use mid-grade fuel and I have experienced zero problems. I also cleaned out the throttle body and my pop charger and took the slack out of the accelerator cables at the same time. Good Luck
matt ill save you the trouble here - dont use the resistor its just to be used to see if the knock sensor is bad its not to be used as a fix.....no kock sensor means that the motor cant detect the pinging, if it cant detect pinging then BAM ! no more motor. then i get to laugh at you for blowing up your car, although im not one to talk i just blew my heads up cause i set the timing wrong.
You do know boost related knock is diff than na knock?
Originally Posted by gowirelessnj
matt ill save you the trouble here - dont use the resistor its just to be used to see if the knock sensor is bad its not to be used as a fix.....no kock sensor means that the motor cant detect the pinging, if it cant detect pinging then BAM ! no more motor. then i get to laugh at you for blowing up your car, although im not one to talk i just blew my heads up cause i set the timing wrong.
Originally Posted by KEhrhardt
Yes, you just bridge the female (upper) connector with the 470K ohm resistor. I was experiencing hesitation, poor acceleration and bad fuel economy on my 94 Max SE with 123K miles. I pulled the KS connector and used a 510K ohm 1/2 watt resistor (didn't have the 470K ohm handy), and holy cow!! what a difference. The car accelerates like a bat outta hell and is fun to drive again! I left the timing stock, and I use mid-grade fuel and I have experienced zero problems. I also cleaned out the throttle body and my pop charger and took the slack out of the accelerator cables at the same time. Good Luck
I've melted pistons before I ever heard a knock.......
Originally Posted by shoult
This is a great TEST setup, but you really SHOULD NOT drive on a daily basis like this. The knock sensor is there for a reason. It detects knocks and detonation you can't hear or feel with your butt dyno.
I've melted pistons before I ever heard a knock.......
I've melted pistons before I ever heard a knock.......
Sorry for your misfortune. My KS was defective (checked bad - no continuity) causing the timing to be retarded. I've been driving for 2 months now with the timing at 15 deg BTDC with the resistor, using 89 octane fuel with no problems to date. My VTC's are grounded as well. If the KS was easier to replace, I would be the first one to replace it. However, the car is going on 10yrs old with 120K+ miles on it and I'm not in any hurry to pull the intake to replace a defective KS at this point. I am going back to 92 octane as the price comes down locally.
Originally Posted by davebond007
I drive daily with my resistor. I think it's ok if you use 92/93 octane gas and have your timing set to stock (15* I believe).
2. Chevron/Texaco = gotta lower the timing. Arco = no problem. (plus its cheaper)
I run a 470k resistor daily and I dont have a problem. I run a my timing at 20* BTDC aswell. I use 92 Octane Arco.
If there isn't a write up, I'll make one, but it would be nice to just have a site I could put them all on or something. I'll talk with the mods about it.
I see mine, its behind the middle Red one. Btw, people might not know thats an R33
.
Also like the other guys said, the resistor really is just a test, but I run mine all the time because I realize the consequences, but I am also not having any problems with it, no pinging, no knocking, no blowing out chunks of the motor. Also I have another motor if for some reason mine does blow.
I think my car knocked alittle tonight. I just drove it for the first time in 4-5 days, remembered I have no gas. As soon as I let DaveBond007 drive my car started studdering or making wierd noises and crap and idling at 250-300ish RPMs bounching around and stuff. He ended up only driving the block and a half or two back to my house. On a side note, I <3 my Exedy... compared to the 5th gen, ohhh boy I love it!!!!
.Also like the other guys said, the resistor really is just a test, but I run mine all the time because I realize the consequences, but I am also not having any problems with it, no pinging, no knocking, no blowing out chunks of the motor. Also I have another motor if for some reason mine does blow.
I think my car knocked alittle tonight. I just drove it for the first time in 4-5 days, remembered I have no gas. As soon as I let DaveBond007 drive my car started studdering or making wierd noises and crap and idling at 250-300ish RPMs bounching around and stuff. He ended up only driving the block and a half or two back to my house. On a side note, I <3 my Exedy... compared to the 5th gen, ohhh boy I love it!!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ballerchris510
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
17
Sep 23, 2015 08:46 PM






