if you have 2 12 inch subs in a 3rd gen post here.
11-30-2003, 12:22 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 202
if you have 2 12 inch subs in a 3rd gen post here.
i just wanted to know how you had your box setup for 2 12s in your 3rd gen. right now i have 2 kove z-12s and i need about 2.5 cubes each and about 50 sq of port total. this will make a ported box that is at least 5.5 cubes before displacement. i may have to build 2 different boxes and slide 1 in at a time. post what you got thanks.
12-01-2003, 03:50 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Ricanprez1
This is what I had........until it was stolen
(and yes, I've got everything carpeted now...)
12-01-2003, 08:09 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
1. tilt up spare tire cover
2. remove spare.
I can still fit 3 full-size tires in the trunk too. the 4th goes in the backseat when I go Auto Xing.
2. remove spare.
I can still fit 3 full-size tires in the trunk too. the 4th goes in the backseat when I go Auto Xing.
I tried to fit 2 and I had to let the air out of em (of course those were also 235/50/16s too) and I've got nothing in my trunk
12-01-2003, 08:50 AM
#13
LOL these tires are 225/50/16.. I can't fit my 17s back there either.
the amp rack is in the back of the trunk, just behind the seat.
I cram two tires side-by-side on the floor in front of the amp rack.. the third tire stacks on top of it in the middle. the trunk is wide enough to fit two, but the arms on the trunk lid get in the wya when I close the trunk.
the amp rack is in the back of the trunk, just behind the seat.
I cram two tires side-by-side on the floor in front of the amp rack.. the third tire stacks on top of it in the middle. the trunk is wide enough to fit two, but the arms on the trunk lid get in the wya when I close the trunk.
12-01-2003, 10:07 AM
#14
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 562
i have 2 12's, each w/ a 2 cube box....if u wanna to that ported box as big as u say, it wont work, u will have 2 make a box 4 each sub (i wanted a 4 cube box and stereo shop said they couldnt get it 2 fit, so ive got 2 boxes now)
for the haters, its not that hard 2 lift out my boxes...takes maybe 2 min....and who needs trunk space when i have a back seat that rarely gets used? my tools n jack fit in dere, and thats all i need...if i have friends w/ me i dont think im gonna go grocery shopping lol
for the haters, its not that hard 2 lift out my boxes...takes maybe 2 min....and who needs trunk space when i have a back seat that rarely gets used? my tools n jack fit in dere, and thats all i need...if i have friends w/ me i dont think im gonna go grocery shopping lol
12-01-2003, 11:59 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 202
thanks for all the replys. i think im going with 2 boxes that end up being 2.25 cubes each and slide in, they will be 16x14x27 each. i will post some pictures once its done. hopefully it will be louder thing this when im done...
my 9515
my 9515
12-01-2003, 12:32 PM
#17
Site is finally back up... here's the pics.
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/st...s/DSC00017.JPG
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/st...k/DSC00080.JPG
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/st...s/DSC00017.JPG
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/st...k/DSC00080.JPG
12-01-2003, 01:09 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 202
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Site is finally back up... here's the pics.
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/st...s/DSC00017.JPG
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/st...k/DSC00080.JPG
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/st...s/DSC00017.JPG
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/st...k/DSC00080.JPG
wow i love it, i was thinking about mounting 12s back there, but mine dont sound good free air and i cut a lot out of my rear deck for air passage. 5 old ppi art amps very nice, it must sound good. do you have pictures of the front stage?
12-01-2003, 01:49 PM
#19
front stage is crap right now (until I get time to fiberglass the kick panels in...)
I don't have any pics of them in this car, but here's a shot of them in my old GXE:
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/old_ma...or_pods/11.jpg
I'm not using those pods right now, so this is what they look like (but thing grey interior, not tan)
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/old_ma...ished_door.jpg
and BTW.. my subs are designed for free air. they sound GREAT, although the pair of 12s on 300W ea isn't as loud as my three 10W6s (sealed) getting 600W mono from my old system. I like the sound quality better though. much better kick in the pants feel (the upper registers from 60-100hz are much better due to the lighter cone and stiffer surrounds).
the low bass on the 10W6s just can't be beat though. 12hz on those puppies in the car was just crazy.. I could hear my eardrums flapping around and watch the car move, but couldn't hear anything!
I don't have any pics of them in this car, but here's a shot of them in my old GXE:
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/old_ma...or_pods/11.jpg
I'm not using those pods right now, so this is what they look like (but thing grey interior, not tan)
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/old_ma...ished_door.jpg
and BTW.. my subs are designed for free air. they sound GREAT, although the pair of 12s on 300W ea isn't as loud as my three 10W6s (sealed) getting 600W mono from my old system. I like the sound quality better though. much better kick in the pants feel (the upper registers from 60-100hz are much better due to the lighter cone and stiffer surrounds).
the low bass on the 10W6s just can't be beat though. 12hz on those puppies in the car was just crazy.. I could hear my eardrums flapping around and watch the car move, but couldn't hear anything!
12-01-2003, 05:10 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Fosgate Fan
i thought you had 4 twelves at certain point for that IASCA stuff
Nope.. it was 3 tens..
I'm going to put four 12s in this one though.. I just haven't had time to do the work on it yet. plus I blew one of the subs, so I took one of my backups... so I only have three now... dunno if I can still get them even.
12-01-2003, 06:07 PM
#25
can't do that, not with these amps. that'll put it at a 3 ohm mono load, which the amp isn't designed for.
plus my design calls for 2 or 4 subs, not three. I can still get them from one place, but they're still rather $$ ($225 each)..
plus my design calls for 2 or 4 subs, not three. I can still get them from one place, but they're still rather $$ ($225 each)..
12-01-2003, 08:07 PM
#27
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 70
Matt,
Thanks for the pics-- I have a 94 GXE and have 2 x 10" in the trunk. It's tucked in nice but honestly even after tuning the crossover even though the box looks slick, the bass is muddy. It is great for the low-low rumble but has no punch.
I thought about doing some free airs like you have. How does it sound? essentially you are using the whole trunk as your cabinet-- do you get a ton of vibration? Is the bass tight? I know it's hard to explain something like that but let me know what you think of the sound.
Also, where did you get those slick fibreglass kick-panels for the front doors so you could mount up those separates (is that a 5.25" in your old GXE with a separate tweeter mounted up high?). I have Alpine 2-way separates in mine now up front, but the factory fit restricted me a bit from using something a little more powerful.... those upgraded panels are cool.... let me know how I might get my hands on something like that.
Later all!
-Leo
Thanks for the pics-- I have a 94 GXE and have 2 x 10" in the trunk. It's tucked in nice but honestly even after tuning the crossover even though the box looks slick, the bass is muddy. It is great for the low-low rumble but has no punch.
I thought about doing some free airs like you have. How does it sound? essentially you are using the whole trunk as your cabinet-- do you get a ton of vibration? Is the bass tight? I know it's hard to explain something like that but let me know what you think of the sound.
Also, where did you get those slick fibreglass kick-panels for the front doors so you could mount up those separates (is that a 5.25" in your old GXE with a separate tweeter mounted up high?). I have Alpine 2-way separates in mine now up front, but the factory fit restricted me a bit from using something a little more powerful.... those upgraded panels are cool.... let me know how I might get my hands on something like that.
Later all!
-Leo
12-01-2003, 08:37 PM
#28
Brian, they're 2 ohm stereo stable.. 4 ohm mono. put out tons of clean power at 4 ohm mono, but anything below 4 ohms, the amp automatically cuts back power to keep the heat down.. at 2 ohm mono, it puts out half the power that it does at 4 ohm mono.
so in essence, I get more power with four subs running 2 ohm stereo than three subs at 3 ohm mono.
leojs, I made those door pods myself out of fiberglass. took a few weekends playing in the driveway.
subs... I've got about 60lb of dynamat in the trunk and doors on the car, so there's no rattles at all. I've also completely sealed up the rear deck by closing off all the holes back there. the only part that isn't sealed off are the vents under the car and the vents across the rear deck (which I need to seal off too).
the bass is crisp and clean. anything from 20 hz up to about 120hz is crystal clear and clean. no mud at all.
When I had my JL 10W6s in the car, I had them in a sealed box facing forward at first.. the bass sounded great, but there just wasn't much of it.. I wasn't happy, so I rebuilt the box and turned it around. the sound was a lot muddier, but over twice as loud.. I never could get the bass to sound like it was coming from the front like I did with the subs facing forward. it's just a tradeoff of using rear-firing subs.
with the free-airs, I've lost some of the SPL, but the sound quality is there. no complaints at all about that!
so in essence, I get more power with four subs running 2 ohm stereo than three subs at 3 ohm mono.
leojs, I made those door pods myself out of fiberglass. took a few weekends playing in the driveway.
subs... I've got about 60lb of dynamat in the trunk and doors on the car, so there's no rattles at all. I've also completely sealed up the rear deck by closing off all the holes back there. the only part that isn't sealed off are the vents under the car and the vents across the rear deck (which I need to seal off too).
the bass is crisp and clean. anything from 20 hz up to about 120hz is crystal clear and clean. no mud at all.
When I had my JL 10W6s in the car, I had them in a sealed box facing forward at first.. the bass sounded great, but there just wasn't much of it.. I wasn't happy, so I rebuilt the box and turned it around. the sound was a lot muddier, but over twice as loud.. I never could get the bass to sound like it was coming from the front like I did with the subs facing forward. it's just a tradeoff of using rear-firing subs.
with the free-airs, I've lost some of the SPL, but the sound quality is there. no complaints at all about that!
12-01-2003, 09:06 PM
#29
to amount of dynamat matt used.do you think dynamat can cut exhaust noise too? i got a freaking annoying rattle on the top part of the trunk. was thinking about dynamating the entire trunk. the other reason i wanted to do dynamat was to keep the exhaust drone to a minimum.
12-01-2003, 09:21 PM
#30
yeah, it'll help..
it's best to find the rattles and fix them instead of just throw dynamat on top of it.. but the dynamat lowered road noise a TON when I put 3 layers on my doors.
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/stereo/dynamat/
There's a few pics if you're bored.
it's best to find the rattles and fix them instead of just throw dynamat on top of it.. but the dynamat lowered road noise a TON when I put 3 layers on my doors.
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/stereo/dynamat/
There's a few pics if you're bored.
12-01-2003, 09:38 PM
#32
dynamat is used to damp resonances and lower noise, NOT to fix rattles. whatever is rattling might be helped a bit by the dynamat, but it's not going to fix it. try to find out what is making the noise and glue/fasten it down somehow. (expanding foam works really well)
as for cost, it depends on how much and what brand you use. I spent about $200 for the whole car using off-brand stuff. you can spend well into the $1000 range if you go with name-brand stuff, or you can go even cheaper than what I used. all depends on where you get it.
do some searching online for 'sound damping' (or to be incorrect, search for 'sound dampening' since it's a commonly mis-used term) and you'll find tons of info and products out there.
as for cost, it depends on how much and what brand you use. I spent about $200 for the whole car using off-brand stuff. you can spend well into the $1000 range if you go with name-brand stuff, or you can go even cheaper than what I used. all depends on where you get it.
do some searching online for 'sound damping' (or to be incorrect, search for 'sound dampening' since it's a commonly mis-used term) and you'll find tons of info and products out there.
12-02-2003, 01:38 AM
#34
I used Peel and Seal, which was suggested from another .org-y member, which is fairly cheap (at least cheaper than Dynamat), along with a generous coating of spray-on V-blok and expanding foam. So if I get ANY rattles, it's from my loud-@$$ exhaust!
12-02-2003, 01:38 AM
#35
hey Matt, remember a year or so ago when I had my black car and I was talking to you about your cables.... yeah, that was cool 
I was never able to find that belkin (I think thats how its spelled... too lazy to look
) wire. I remember drooling over those stereo pics 
.
In my old car I just had 2 Infinity Reference 10's, but in my white car I've got it fully wired, but no money for the stereo stuff, so I put gauges in my DIN instead
.75cu ft. for each sub, sealed, for my old infinities, firing outward. First using a Bazooka EL1500 which I then traded for a PPI Art A404 and JL 300/4 (wanted to go full PPI like Matt ), or find a 500/1). Sold the PPI Art shortly after I crashed my car to another 3rd gen guy, but now he's sold his car and into celica's now. I miss that amp
I was never able to find that belkin (I think thats how its spelled... too lazy to look
) wire. I remember drooling over those stereo pics .In my old car I just had 2 Infinity Reference 10's, but in my white car I've got it fully wired, but no money for the stereo stuff, so I put gauges in my DIN instead
.75cu ft. for each sub, sealed, for my old infinities, firing outward. First using a Bazooka EL1500 which I then traded for a PPI Art A404 and JL 300/4 (wanted to go full PPI like Matt ), or find a 500/1). Sold the PPI Art shortly after I crashed my car to another 3rd gen guy, but now he's sold his car and into celica's now. I miss that amp
12-02-2003, 09:24 AM
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 202
Originally Posted by nubiannupe
Hardly. I think he's just the only one MAN/WOMAN enuff to show he has 'em!! 
12-02-2003, 09:40 AM
#39
Exactly... these aren't that loud, but they sound frikken GOOD.
Tom Nousaine / Car Stereo Review also did an article yeeears ago on a free-air setup they did with a Soundstream SPL 160.. Which any of you guys that remember 5 years ago, knew that sub was AWESOME for spl, but sucked in sound quality.. and took TONS of power..
Well, in the free-air setup, they ran it with about 300 watts or so, and it was playing like 130dB or so at 16 Hz!! Plus they said the SQ was absolutely amazing on it- strange.
Tom Nousaine / Car Stereo Review also did an article yeeears ago on a free-air setup they did with a Soundstream SPL 160.. Which any of you guys that remember 5 years ago, knew that sub was AWESOME for spl, but sucked in sound quality.. and took TONS of power..
Well, in the free-air setup, they ran it with about 300 watts or so, and it was playing like 130dB or so at 16 Hz!! Plus they said the SQ was absolutely amazing on it- strange.