Dim climate control display
#1
Dim climate control display
I am proud to announce that I have recently successfully gone through the process of fixing my intermitently dim / completely dead clock in my 1990 Maxima. Having limited experience in fixing things, this was quite an achievement.
But now my electronic climate control display seems to be suffering the same problem that my clock had. Sometimes the display works fine. More often, it's very dim, especially on the far right side. And sometimes the display doesn't work at all.
I ripped it apart, resoldered a few connections and cleaned a little bit, but it didn't help. I've been unable to find any info on this problem. Has anyone else fixed this problem without replacing the whole unit?
-Rich
(Wanna-be Car Guy)
But now my electronic climate control display seems to be suffering the same problem that my clock had. Sometimes the display works fine. More often, it's very dim, especially on the far right side. And sometimes the display doesn't work at all.
I ripped it apart, resoldered a few connections and cleaned a little bit, but it didn't help. I've been unable to find any info on this problem. Has anyone else fixed this problem without replacing the whole unit?
-Rich
(Wanna-be Car Guy)
#2
Drop a line to these guys www.mrwhizard.com. This is all they do.
#4
I have a climate controll that I got just because some of my buttons were worn. If you would like I will sell it to you (minus the buttons and lever on the side...you can transfer that from yours).
I would take $35 shipped if you want it. I will need to test it first but last time it was in the car it was fine.
Let me know.
I would take $35 shipped if you want it. I will need to test it first but last time it was in the car it was fine.
Let me know.
#5
Originally Posted by tmuscedere
Keep on looking for the solder joints that need to be touched up. I fixed my control the same way as the clock. Probe with a tooth pick to find out where it is.
Here's another question... When I resoldered on the climate control, I really just heated up the solder points to melt the solder, and moved the pin slightly. I didn't remove the old solder, nor did I add new solder... Is this enough?
Rich
#7
Originally Posted by harrymay
i thought the manual and the atc were not interchangeable, but i have the same problem too, soo im gonna rip it out tonight. try to fix it.
who was this to? I may have not been clear in my post but the climate controll I was talking about selling is an ATC (auto climate controll)
#8
Originally Posted by rhecker
What am I looking to find with the toothpick? a connection that's loose? I only did a visual inspection last time I cleaned it up, and the connections looked pretty clean. In my clock, on the other hand, it was pretty obvious what the problem was - one capacitor was very corroded, and two other solder points were corroded.
Here's another question... When I resoldered on the climate control, I really just heated up the solder points to melt the solder, and moved the pin slightly. I didn't remove the old solder, nor did I add new solder... Is this enough?
Rich
Here's another question... When I resoldered on the climate control, I really just heated up the solder points to melt the solder, and moved the pin slightly. I didn't remove the old solder, nor did I add new solder... Is this enough?
Rich
you should definately remove the old solder. if you've melted it and moved the connection of the lcd screen, the old solder could cause a weak connection due to dirt or the old solder might be touching two circuits.
if you haven't done so already...sign up on
www.torontomaxima.com for some local support and possibly another climate control unit for sale.
later
ryan
#9
ok my bad awsm66, i misred ur post, sorry.
good news though, poked around on my atc, found a couple of shorts, and fixed it. no my atc is bright with the lights on and with them off. ipulled my clock and found that my weak soldering on the 100mf cap was terrible, so i took it off and was gonna resolder it, but i must have dropped the cap somewhere. so whenever radioshak opens im there. and i also thing my connector to the harness might have a problem too
good news though, poked around on my atc, found a couple of shorts, and fixed it. no my atc is bright with the lights on and with them off. ipulled my clock and found that my weak soldering on the 100mf cap was terrible, so i took it off and was gonna resolder it, but i must have dropped the cap somewhere. so whenever radioshak opens im there. and i also thing my connector to the harness might have a problem too
#10
The way I did it was took the unit apart and plugged it back into the car. Then I started probing the unit with a toothpick to find the solder joint that was loose (my display went bright again). I didn't add more solder just touched what was there again and it worked.
#11
Originally Posted by tmuscedere
The way I did it was took the unit apart and plugged it back into the car. Then I started probing the unit with a toothpick to find the solder joint that was loose (my display went bright again). I didn't add more solder just touched what was there again and it worked.
![BowDown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
#13
Originally Posted by -shock211-
that's damn clever man!!! ![BowDown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
![BowDown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
Unfortunately, that's also not going to last long. it's an easy way to find the problem (which in fact is what most electronic repair shops do, except they usually hook an oscilloscope probe up to it instead of poking it with a toothpick)... but you really need to remove the old solder and reflow new solder into the joint. it'll last another 10 years that way instead of another 10 weeks.
#19
How ironic that this topic is up again... I have the exact same problem (dim ATC)... and I have spent countless hours trying to fix it - and am still trying as I post this; I've removed/replaced/resolderd as many compontents as I could and still no luck
if your're like me, then you might just be SOL.
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#21
Originally Posted by jiking
This must be a common problem cuase I have the same problem with mine also. I've tried "tapping" the console, but i have to give it a few luv taps before it brightens up again.
#23
Originally Posted by harrymay
is there any particular component that can cause the dimming? kinda like the caps in the clock that need replaceing. or is it just the actual display itself?
#25
Still resoldering
Well, I'm continuing to resolder my Climate Control System...Every day I resolder a bunch of connections, and every day it seems I haven't gotten anywhere. What I have noticed is this: When the display is dim, if I put downward pressure on the PC Board with the connectors (i.e., not the board with the display on it), then it suddenly brightens up. I can't get any reliable results from toothpick probing. I've completely resoldered the connectors, and many of the capacitors and transistors, so that's not the problem.I'm thinking of resoldering that big chip next...
I've also developed a new problem. Sometimes the display goes completely out if the headlights are turned on AND there is a working bulb plugged in to the climate control to light up the buttons (all mine had previously blown out). Ironically, I've noticed putting upward pressure on that board fixes it. I was going to shove a wedge-shaped piece of cork in there to put pressure on the board, but one problem seems to need upward pressure, and the other problem needs downward pressure!
-Rich
Continuing the resolding. More updates to come...
I've also developed a new problem. Sometimes the display goes completely out if the headlights are turned on AND there is a working bulb plugged in to the climate control to light up the buttons (all mine had previously blown out). Ironically, I've noticed putting upward pressure on that board fixes it. I was going to shove a wedge-shaped piece of cork in there to put pressure on the board, but one problem seems to need upward pressure, and the other problem needs downward pressure!
-Rich
Continuing the resolding. More updates to come...
#26
Originally Posted by rhecker
Well, I'm continuing to resolder my Climate Control System...Every day I resolder a bunch of connections, and every day it seems I haven't gotten anywhere. What I have noticed is this: When the display is dim, if I put downward pressure on the PC Board with the connectors (i.e., not the board with the display on it), then it suddenly brightens up. I can't get any reliable results from toothpick probing. I've completely resoldered the connectors, and many of the capacitors and transistors, so that's not the problem.I'm thinking of resoldering that big chip next...
I've also developed a new problem. Sometimes the display goes completely out if the headlights are turned on AND there is a working bulb plugged in to the climate control to light up the buttons (all mine had previously blown out). Ironically, I've noticed putting upward pressure on that board fixes it. I was going to shove a wedge-shaped piece of cork in there to put pressure on the board, but one problem seems to need upward pressure, and the other problem needs downward pressure!
-Rich
Continuing the resolding. More updates to come...
I've also developed a new problem. Sometimes the display goes completely out if the headlights are turned on AND there is a working bulb plugged in to the climate control to light up the buttons (all mine had previously blown out). Ironically, I've noticed putting upward pressure on that board fixes it. I was going to shove a wedge-shaped piece of cork in there to put pressure on the board, but one problem seems to need upward pressure, and the other problem needs downward pressure!
-Rich
Continuing the resolding. More updates to come...
Oh, and BTW thanks for the offer tmuscedere , but I'm just going to leave it as it for now. I accidentally broke the lighter's light bulb holder when removing the plastic cover - so I figured the CC has done enough damage for now.
#27
I fixed it!
Well, I managed to fix my dim/malfunctioning Auto Climate Control on about the 5th attempt. It's been nice and bright for a day and a half now, and I think it's all good.
The last modifications I made were both on the board with the connectors (not the board with the display). I did the following:
-Resoldered all of the surface mount resistors (I think they're resistors) on the bottom of that board.
-Resoldered two things that I don't have a name for. They're right behind the big connectors, and they both have seven pins in a row.
As for my button lighting problem, I managed to find a trace that was no longer conducting, and I soldered in a little jumper wire. I believe I caused this problem in the process of trying to fix the display.
Hopefully those of you still battling this problem can try the same resoldering I did and let us know if that fixes it for you, as well.
-Rich
The last modifications I made were both on the board with the connectors (not the board with the display). I did the following:
-Resoldered all of the surface mount resistors (I think they're resistors) on the bottom of that board.
-Resoldered two things that I don't have a name for. They're right behind the big connectors, and they both have seven pins in a row.
As for my button lighting problem, I managed to find a trace that was no longer conducting, and I soldered in a little jumper wire. I believe I caused this problem in the process of trying to fix the display.
Hopefully those of you still battling this problem can try the same resoldering I did and let us know if that fixes it for you, as well.
-Rich
#28
i have an update, i think it might be why the whole thing goes dim in most cases.
So i take it all out and take a look, didnt find anything, just poked around. put it back in, it started just fine, nice and bright. then i turn the lights on, and it didnt go dim like it should, its not a problem coz my hu is pretty bright too and im used to it whenever i drive at nite. its been like this for about three days, and its been turned on and off. lets just hope it stays like this
So i take it all out and take a look, didnt find anything, just poked around. put it back in, it started just fine, nice and bright. then i turn the lights on, and it didnt go dim like it should, its not a problem coz my hu is pretty bright too and im used to it whenever i drive at nite. its been like this for about three days, and its been turned on and off. lets just hope it stays like this
#29
Originally Posted by harrymay
i have an update, i think it might be why the whole thing goes dim in most cases.
So i take it all out and take a look, didnt find anything, just poked around. put it back in, it started just fine, nice and bright. then i turn the lights on, and it didnt go dim like it should, its not a problem coz my hu is pretty bright too and im used to it whenever i drive at nite. its been like this for about three days, and its been turned on and off. lets just hope it stays like this
So i take it all out and take a look, didnt find anything, just poked around. put it back in, it started just fine, nice and bright. then i turn the lights on, and it didnt go dim like it should, its not a problem coz my hu is pretty bright too and im used to it whenever i drive at nite. its been like this for about three days, and its been turned on and off. lets just hope it stays like this
![ghost](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ghostsmiley.gif)
BTW what was exactly did you do, besides taking it out, for it to go bright?
#30
i pretty much poked around, i might have shorted something out maybe, i poke the connector especially the ide kind that connects the two boards and the harness thingy. i just drove to h-town and back to meet up with some nio dudes, and it was bright the whole way.
#31
Originally Posted by harrymay
i pretty much poked around, i might have shorted something out maybe, i poke the connector especially the ide kind that connects the two boards and the harness thingy. i just drove to h-town and back to meet up with some nio dudes, and it was bright the whole way.
As soon as the temperature dropped to 20 degrees and below it has been
bright and consistant as when it was new. Any answers to temperature having
a positive effect on the digital display?
#33
Originally Posted by eyemann
I was having the same problems with the digital display on my 3d gen.
As soon as the temperature dropped to 20 degrees and below it has been
bright and consistant as when it was new. Any answers to temperature having
a positive effect on the digital display?
As soon as the temperature dropped to 20 degrees and below it has been
bright and consistant as when it was new. Any answers to temperature having
a positive effect on the digital display?
#36
no... way... sorry rhecker, you fall in the same category as me - just give up otherwise, you'll become obsessed with it and it will become an addiction, until you start working on it day and night and your hair begins to turn gray! STOP NOW WHILE YOU STILL HAVE YOUR HEALTH... j/k yeah keep trying until your satisfied that you've tried everything possible... that's what I did, now I just hit mine to get it bright again.
#38
I dont understand you guys. You would rather spend countless hours working on this than buy mine for $35 shipped (yeah a little more to Canada). I know mine works and I will even touch up the solder before I send it.
But if you want to continue working with it then here is a tip...
Use silver bearing solder. I was working on some ford radios for a friend and could not for the life of me get that stupid display to work until I finally got some silver bearing solder. It worked like a charm after that. I have found that works better than regular lead/tin solder.
Just my .02. Good luck.
But if you want to continue working with it then here is a tip...
Use silver bearing solder. I was working on some ford radios for a friend and could not for the life of me get that stupid display to work until I finally got some silver bearing solder. It worked like a charm after that. I have found that works better than regular lead/tin solder.
Just my .02. Good luck.
#39
Originally Posted by awsm66
I dont understand you guys. You would rather spend countless hours working on this than buy mine for $35 shipped (yeah a little more to Canada). I know mine works and I will even touch up the solder before I send it.
But if you want to continue working with it then here is a tip...
Use silver bearing solder. I was working on some ford radios for a friend and could not for the life of me get that stupid display to work until I finally got some silver bearing solder. It worked like a charm after that. I have found that works better than regular lead/tin solder.
Just my .02. Good luck.
But if you want to continue working with it then here is a tip...
Use silver bearing solder. I was working on some ford radios for a friend and could not for the life of me get that stupid display to work until I finally got some silver bearing solder. It worked like a charm after that. I have found that works better than regular lead/tin solder.
Just my .02. Good luck.
harrymay: the technique is simple yet slightly complicated, and will only be mastered after several months of practice... using the palm of your hand hit just above the actual display, on the center console frame... if it does not work at first, try repeated attempts; if it does not then work, you may also want to attempt swearing while hitting the display - at which point it will more than likely work.
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