Upgrading speaker wiring.
12-13-2003, 12:38 PM
#8
yep, depends on the amp. the bigger the amp (power wise) the bigger power cable it requires. check out http://www.the12volt.com/wiring/recwirsz.asp
lots of good info there.
lots of good info there.
12-13-2003, 01:56 PM
#12
I upgraded all of my wiring from stock to 18 ga to front and rear speakers..i use 4 ga welder cable for my amp power cable (4 ga from battery to fuse, 8 ga from fuse to amp since its only a 1ft run) for a 1200 watt amp..for the speaker wire upgrades, I haven't noticed much difference, but theres a little less interference..now, the wires to my subs were a different story..I used to have 14 ga wire in that span, but I moved up to 12 ga. and noticed a considerable difference. With 12, the subs distorted less when the bass got really intense.
Theres nothing WRONG with using the stock wiring, but it'll sound a little better with some decent replacement wire since stock wiring is somthing like 20 or 22 ga, and most aftermarket H/U put out more power than the factory H/U, especially if you had the bose system..I used to have 14 ga wire running to the rear speakers, but swapped it for 18 and didn't notice a change in sound quality, but I dropped it back to factory and the rear speakers didn't handle the midbass I had directed to them nearly as well..
If you can find it, the best solution is to run 16 or 18 ga 2 conductor+ shield shielded wire..it eliminates most interference that normally comes in the speaker wire..
Theres nothing WRONG with using the stock wiring, but it'll sound a little better with some decent replacement wire since stock wiring is somthing like 20 or 22 ga, and most aftermarket H/U put out more power than the factory H/U, especially if you had the bose system..I used to have 14 ga wire running to the rear speakers, but swapped it for 18 and didn't notice a change in sound quality, but I dropped it back to factory and the rear speakers didn't handle the midbass I had directed to them nearly as well..
If you can find it, the best solution is to run 16 or 18 ga 2 conductor+ shield shielded wire..it eliminates most interference that normally comes in the speaker wire..
12-13-2003, 02:02 PM
#13
Can anyone show pics of how to rewire the fron speakers, like what to rip out and where to run the run stuff, after my little accident i have to check on my front speaker anyway, and am gonna rewire.
12-13-2003, 02:55 PM
#14
I cant show you a pic, but I can tell you what I did..
On the right side, I used a piece of stiff steel wire (a 6 inch piece of galvanized wire like what is used for tieing chain link fences to the posts is good)with a somwhat small loop on one end (barely big enough to fit the guage of wire you're going to use through it) to poke a hole in the grommit that the other wires run through (doesn't matter if you start with the door or the car, you're going to have to estimate how much wire you need to cut it off anyway, so might as well start with the car part). Make sure you've already looped your speaker wire through the loop on the "back" end and taped it together, then pull it through the hole with the steel wire still attatched (this will be difficult).
Now, run the wire to the stereo (or speaker, if you started in the door) and tie it off somehow. Then go to the door (or car if you started on the door) and repeat (you'll have to estimate how much wire you need, so figure out what you'll probably need, and add a 1 foot for safety)
Now, the left side is MUCH harder (I couldn't do it right, my hands are too big). Start with the door and do it the same way you did the right side..Now, before you start on the car, I'll tell you the stuff in the fuse panel, regulators and such, WILL be in the way, so you'll have to figure out a way around them..or you can do what I did and just bring it through the door jam..Mine has been there for 7 months and hasn't pinched at all, so it works just fine, but its a little less than pretty.
Your other option instead of doing anything of what I explained is drill a hole in your door and one in the door jamb and put some rubber grommets in the holes and poke your wire through those..
Whichever you choose, BE SURE to seal around the wires with some silicone sealant and let it dry thoroughly before opening and closing the door..
On the right side, I used a piece of stiff steel wire (a 6 inch piece of galvanized wire like what is used for tieing chain link fences to the posts is good)with a somwhat small loop on one end (barely big enough to fit the guage of wire you're going to use through it) to poke a hole in the grommit that the other wires run through (doesn't matter if you start with the door or the car, you're going to have to estimate how much wire you need to cut it off anyway, so might as well start with the car part). Make sure you've already looped your speaker wire through the loop on the "back" end and taped it together, then pull it through the hole with the steel wire still attatched (this will be difficult).
Now, run the wire to the stereo (or speaker, if you started in the door) and tie it off somehow. Then go to the door (or car if you started on the door) and repeat (you'll have to estimate how much wire you need, so figure out what you'll probably need, and add a 1 foot for safety)
Now, the left side is MUCH harder (I couldn't do it right, my hands are too big). Start with the door and do it the same way you did the right side..Now, before you start on the car, I'll tell you the stuff in the fuse panel, regulators and such, WILL be in the way, so you'll have to figure out a way around them..or you can do what I did and just bring it through the door jam..Mine has been there for 7 months and hasn't pinched at all, so it works just fine, but its a little less than pretty.
Your other option instead of doing anything of what I explained is drill a hole in your door and one in the door jamb and put some rubber grommets in the holes and poke your wire through those..
Whichever you choose, BE SURE to seal around the wires with some silicone sealant and let it dry thoroughly before opening and closing the door..
12-13-2003, 07:17 PM
#16
The tubes used in the stock wiring are REALLY restrictive, they seem like shrink tubing that was shrunk..you may, but I would expect a real pain if you try..
I imagine you MIGHT be able to somehow attatch the new wires to the ends of the factory wires (would have to cut off the plug) and pull it back through if you pull out the factory wiring..
If you have the patience, go for it..I don't, so I didn't...
I imagine you MIGHT be able to somehow attatch the new wires to the ends of the factory wires (would have to cut off the plug) and pull it back through if you pull out the factory wiring..
If you have the patience, go for it..I don't, so I didn't...
12-14-2003, 09:39 AM
#19
Like I said, if you have the patience, go for it..
I ran my amp power cable on the underside of the car along the brake lines and have had no trouble with it..but it IS fine strand welder cable, so the jacket is probably a little more durable than the typical car audio store cable..
I ran my amp power cable on the underside of the car along the brake lines and have had no trouble with it..but it IS fine strand welder cable, so the jacket is probably a little more durable than the typical car audio store cable..
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