Just curious for those who did it, do you just take off the two hoses and plug them, or do you connect them together?

I dont feel like thinking and figuring it out for myself, sorry (hehehehe)

 

on my vg i connected them together right at the inlet and outlet. i took off all coolant lines to the manifold though. since you are just doing the tb apparently i would connect those two hoses together so coolant goes to the rest of the stuff if that's how you want it.

 

I think thats what your supposed to do, but I figured it would be easier if I could just plug them

hmmm. I think its time to break out the duct tape, hmmmm? (thinks of something to use to connect them the right way ....)

 

dont worry about getting anything to connect it with.

I have read where people would get little lines and such but on the VE all you have to do is pull one of the lines up and connect it straight across because the hose is long enough. I cant remember exactly how it looks after doing it since its been a while but you will see once you look in there.

 

i just replaced both lines with one longer line

 

sweet, even less work!

thanks guys!

 

Could someone tell me why you would do this? Enlighten me please.

David

 

"cooler" air intake charge

 

But why would the designers at nissan route the coolant there in the first place is it possible that after beating on the engine for long periods of time or a couple hard smashs of the pedal that the TB gets hotter than that of the coolant there for the coolant actually cooling the air instead of heating it im not saying it dosnt work if u do reroute it but why would they put it there if it deducted from the hp when all they do is test this **** all day.

 

nope , the only reason why the throttle body has the coolant pipe in it is to heat up the air alittle to make it more efficient in terms of emissions.

 

ahhhhhhhh So ill be rerouting mine tomorrow so the JDM spec motor does not have this i would assume or do they have emission laws there too, would blockin the EGR selnoid and pipe from the exhaust manifold do the same type of thing with the air??

 

a jdm spec motor shouldn't have an egr valve. at least not the earlier ones around the 90's or so. i'm not sure if they have them in newer vehicles or not.

 

I connected it with a Home Depot copper barbed coupling fitting. Yet another HDM for Aaron. But then sometime after that, I removed that hose coupling and put in a copper Tee with barbed hose fittings so I can install my mechanical sending unit for coolant temp.

 

I just got a JDM Vg. There is a screw in plug in the exhaust manifold (where the EGR would go), and the nice thing is the Intake manifold itself does not have an EGR connection. Its not blocked off on the intake manifold, it just simply isn't there. I think I'll do this TB bypass.

 

ahh, yes that plug. i just put a bolt in it when i took it off of my car before the swap.

 

When I did this, my idle never went down after the engine warmed up. The tb didn't receive any coolant and stayed in the "partially open" position at all times.

 

on a maxima?

 

probably stopped the coolant flow to the iacv. my maxima does it a lot now (happens on and off) which really bites. i may run coolant back through the iacv since it is doing that.

 

aaron did it the same way i did. i just used a double ended copper barbed jobby and connected them together with a couple of hose clamps and forgot about it

 

Wow so there are lots of people doing this?

Hmm...maybe I'll attempt this project one more time, but let my car cool down first.

 

Ok, so how do you do it? can someone show me some pics? im not that great at this.

 

I had it done on my old one, but I just used a peice of fish tank air tubing to connect the two. I'm just going to find the loop around thing that Mike was talking about on this one.

 

So which tubes are you guys talking about? Pictures?

 

sorry, i didnt see your reply.

unless I get really bored in the next few minutes, I'll post pics in the morning.

 

Great I cant wait, I just went into the garage and looked at the EGR valve according to chiltons and I still can not figure out what you guys are doing!

 

kind of make sense? Stock the coolant runs threw the bottom of the throttle body. You just simply unhook the 2 hoses from the throttle body and connect them together.

 

Wow that was easy, thanks a lot MrGone.

 

Here's what I don't understand, why would you connect the 2 lines together at the TB? I'm not exactly sure how it is on the VE but, on the VG one of the 2 lines to the TB comes from the IACV and the other comes from a metal routing line. Now, what I did was disconnect both lines from the TB and connected one line to the IACV and 1 to the metal routing line so that the coolant should still pass through the IACV but then return through the other line. Though, I just left nothing connected on the TB. Is this the correct way to do it? I looked the TB over and couldn't see any reason you would need to connect the TB coolant fittings to each other. Where the coolant flows through the TB looks completely closed off from the rest of the TB so it shouldn't be necessary to block it off.

Mtcookson, you should seriously run the coolant back to the IACV. From my understanding, the wax pellet in the IACV, that controls the AIV (air injection valve) reacts to the temp of the coolant. I'm not completely sure on that. Though, if that's the case, then it wouldn't be working at all and just staying wide open since it can't sense the engine warming up.

I've been thinking a lot about this. I think the coolant running to the TB, IACV and maybe a couple other small things might be some of the causes of heat soak on our Maximas.

 

I will just hit Aaron up when he comes to Cali.

*Aaron at my house*

Donald: "Hey Aaron, lets roll to HD I gotta pick up a few things"

*At HD*

Donald: "Hey I should pick up the stuff while we are here and maybe you can just help me, since you have done it before and we can look at your car"

*Few beers in Aaron*

Aaron: "Sure dude"

I have it all planned out...

 

Shadow, your middle paragraph is right on.

I'm still trying to figure out the first one, but I did just wake up alittle while ago so....

IIRC, we decided that the 'heatsoak' was infact the car kind of retarding the timing after a bit. Personally I have not had any 'heat soak' with this car, I did every now and then with my old black max.

Granted the car has alittle more power when its cold, I really need to stop beating the crap out of the engine when its cold (had the oil foam up on me once ) Now when its cold outside (like >32* my car absolutley loves it.... but only if there is dry pavement, if its wet out its not fun because of all the tire spin

 

Actually, I just realized we were talking about doing it the same way.

Yeah, I knew the ECU retarding the timing is a cause of heatsoak, though I experienced similar things when my IACV wasn't working right and the valve was staying open once the engine warmed up. Also, warm coolant heating up the intake air couldn't help so removing it could only be an improvement.

 

Haha, word! My eagle is going to land mid next week sometime. After that, I will start making plans to get out there. I think I might be able to get a spare EGR block plate for ya. Also, for the TB coolant bypass, it will be easier to just run a longer hose. WAIT.. OR I can just bring my hose coupling that I had before I installed my coolant temp gauge. haha sweet! I'll let ya have that for free.

 

110 octane = cure for heat soak

 

 

what?!?!!
thought i told you that one already?
VE's = love 110 octane

 

I once brought my octane rating up from a 93 to 95 or 96 by putting 50% 100 octane pump fuel and 50% 93 pump fuel. I had 20 degrees timing at the time. I made a few runs like that, then made 3 more run with 25 degrees. I ran within one tenth with ALL my runs that day. So after that, I kinda ruled out the idea of me having a higher octane rating.

 

I did the TB reroute a long time ago and never noticed any difference in it... and that was even in 110f+ Oklahoma heat..
never bothered to put it back, but I do have weird high-idle sometimes on the car.. it's never consistent. some days it will idle at 750, others it runs 1000 and even 2000rpm sometimes. weird.

 

Very wierd. My idle is flawless at 750. In gear, it goes as low as 650. And while warming up, it's 1500, then drops to 1200 20 seconds later. Then drops down to 750 about 20 minutes later when it finally warms up. LOL I'm still experimenting with Tstats.

But, this TB coolant bypass isn't a mod you can expect any gains from. But it's one of those things that you know doesn't hurt, so it's gotta help in theory. I have many mods like that. And they might all amount to a 1hp increase.

 

matt. mine used to do that as well

aaron, try 110 leaded. im curious to see if mine really was a freak or not, for the simple fact it ran like another animal on it. it would run down low 13 second z28's on high way. just food for thought kiddies

 

Leaded? You sure about that?