KRMaxima21

I changed the fuel filter(changed it to a Purlator fuel filter) on Friday and my Maxima ran fine from then on till Sunday. I put gas (93 Octane) in it on Saturday night before I took a 40 mile drive to Bethpage,NY from Queens,NY. The car drove fine there and back. Monday morning I drove my car to work from my house which is maybe a 5-6 mile drive and the car rode fine. Until it warmed up. I got within 1/2 mile of my job and all of a sudden it started to hesitate and surge like it was about to stall or something. Luckily, it didn't but it kept hesitating and backfiring the rest of the way to my job. I took it to a auto repair shop the same day and they tried 3 used MAF's and it did the same hesitation on each one. They told me to get a diagnostic test done because their machine was being repaired. While driving it to get it read, the car didn't backfire,surge, or hesitate even once. The mechanic told me to drive it around for the day and if it doesn't do it again then maybe it was just a injector being clogged momentarily. I drove it the whole day and it didn't do it again the whole time. Until I was about 4 blocks away from my house. It started to do the hesitation again and this time it cut off. I started it up again and drove the car home but it didn't hesitate. I took the car to get the diagnostic test done but before I left for the test I poured in some Valvoline Max Life concentrated fuel cleaner.I drive to the shop and they said I had the following three codes: 1-o2 sensor, 2-fuel pump fault, 3-vehicle speed sensor. They tested the fuel pump and they said it was working fine but they were getting some kind of fault from it but that wouldnt call the hesitation. So they said. I don't think the o2 sensor would cause this and I already knew about the vehicle speed sensor. I told them I would get the parts and do the fuel pump and o2 sensor myself. I drive from the shop and the car starts backfiring and hesitating worst than before It stalled twice before I even left the gas station. I drive to a Mobil station and put in about 10 gallons of 89 octane gas. The car doesn't backfire or hesitate at all. I get home and my dad asked me about what the car is doing. Then he tells me that it could be I have water in my tank and it have possibly messed up the fuel filter and he thinks it's throwing off the whole fuel system. Anybody ever have these problems? Any help would be appreciated and to the mods I'm sorry for typing so much but this problem has the mechanics and myself stumped. Thanks in advance.

DMad8724

iTrader: (4)

why are you using 2 completely different octanes of gas? i.e. 89 and 93, cant you find a happy medium, or stay with one, seems to make more sense to me

KRMaxima21

I used two different ones because the gas station next to my house only cost $1.83/gallon for Super Unleaded gas and at the auto repair it was $2.19 for Super Unleaded and $1.89 for Premium(89 Octane-Big time price boost huh ?). Wanted to make sure it wasn't just bad gas. I normally stay with 93 Octane but I didn't feel like paying over 2 dollars a gallon for gas if it wasn't going to fix the problem.

rx7racr

watch the temp guage when it starts bucking...

I'm having similar problems, and the heat guage seems to fluctuate wildly when the bucking occurs... I'm guessing that the mixture is being affected by either a failed thermostat or a faulty temp sensor...

ericw

I have had the same problem for over 3 years now.
Your description fits exactly. I noticed that whenever
the hesitation comes it will recover much quicklier if you
step off the gas pedal for 3-4 sec, don't step on the gas it will make the stalling worse (that might be a clue about what the problem is). One time I had the engine completely stalled, I was in 3rd gear, that was only once. Still this is dangerous because your car loses speed but your rear brake lights are not signaling on. I think it has nothing to do with the gas or fuel pump.
My guess is ignition. I have come to live with this because
of high mileage and especially since I have other problems
with the car. But please let me know if you find what is wrong.

KRMaxima21

I decided last night I would run the car and see if I could figure out the problem myself. I took the jack bar and moved the seat up till it was pressing the accelerator. I set it to about 3-4k rpms and then I noticed all of a sudden it would sound like no air was getting sucked in. After this I pulled the throttle cables a little and the more I revved the engine the more I could hear the backfiring start but it almost sounded like it was coming from my CAI!! When I took it to be checked out they tried 3 used MAF sensors and the results unfortunately were the same. Could it be they could have honestly just had 3 straight bad ones ? Anyway I'm going to go pick up a used 300zx MAF sensor on Monday and try that one out. Hopefully that will cure the bucking and backfiring. Also I'm going to change the plugs and wires today to see if that helps any.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

OK, Krmaxima and eric probably have two seperate issues here.

Eric, you have a VE and your problem is likely related to coil packs/ingnition. Check the coil packs over for cracks, especially in the front three. Also, check your spark plugs. If they are Bosch, go and buy NGK right away. Another possibility is the Cam Position Sensor. I just talked to another nissan tech yesterday and he said when they start to go bad, they will crap out intermittently, especially when they are warm. This is a very expensive part (apx $450 from the dealer), so try to find one from a junkyard if you can. I would go for the coil packs first, though.

KRMaxima, I know that VGs go through the MAF sensors, but I can't see three of them being bad. An odd part of the problem with your car is the fact that you say your car backfires.

When the MAF goes, the car will just automatically go into "limp home mode" which will not let you accelerate beyone about 2500 rpm. It basically acts like it's hitting the rev limiter (doesn't backfire!).

Air or vacuum leaks that lean out your fuel too much can cause this, which may explain why you think it's the CAI. There could possibly be a leak somewhere on the engine side of the MAF (like a leaky gasket somewhere?)

So can moisture in your distributor. I don't think that's it, though, because it happens frequently. Usually, it will dry out and stop.

I can't remember much more than that. The last time I had a car with a backfiring problem, it was a 1972 Datsun 510 with a carb and it backfired because I had gone through a big puddle and got water all over the ignition system.

Good luck!

KRMaxima21

Would any of these codes cause the problem though- 22/Fuel Pump Circuit, 33/Exhaust Gas Sensor. They checked the pressure on the fuel line and it was at 40 and it's supposed to be between 36-43 so I dont really know where this problem could be coming from. Would condensation inside of the engine cause this? Just wondering because it rained here last Friday and I did hit two big puddles and the CAI might have sucked up a bit of water. Not much but maybe enough to cause damage ? Why do I hear JDM engine or used engine coming up

99SEL4ME

Hey, try your coolant temp sensor

bansheenomore

For some reasom the Rain has something to do with the coils cracking. These are easy to find. pull out the coil. if its cracked it will show. I just lost my 3rd one last week. My last one acted up when it rained. I took it out and found it to be cracked. It must be from the higher moisture in the air that causes them to short. When they short the computer give off weird codes. You can take out the coils, grind out the crack and epoxy them back up. the clearances are tight so keep it thin. This is only temp though. Find used ones thats best.

When they short the fuel injectors shut off. This is why if you keep onthe gas it stalls. When you let of the Throttle position resets the computer. Then your injectors come back on.

Ninty-two-se

I find if I push in the clutch and coast for a few seconds when the car begins to stall and buck I dont lose speed quickly and if the engine totally stalls I can just pop the clutch out to start it again... this helps when you are in heavier traffic but not so much if it happens just after you've pulled out infront of someone and your car wont move...

MethMax

OK this is a good topic for me to get some info. My fifth cylinder keeps cutting in and out doesnt matter if the engine is cold or warm it seems to work here and there for different lengths of time. I know that it is my fifth one because I can pull the spark plug and the car will run the same. Has anyone had this problem before?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Probably the injector, These cars have a history of injector problems

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

Like I said, there are likely two seperate issues: one for VG engines and one for VE engines. The VE is often times related to the coil packs.

Of course, they both have injectors, which could be checked, but a VG is going to have some different solutions than the VE.

For example, MethMax should probably check his injectors. Ninety-Two-Se should probably check his coil packs for cracks in them before he checks the injectors.

Bill Brasky

iTrader: (2)

i'm having this problem *right* now...

pulled the code and it's the TPS. replace it, and be happy.

Bill Brasky

iTrader: (2)

any update on the problem? i replaced my TPS and it's fine now (thanks Piggie!)! what about yours?

KRMaxima21

Well I had got 2 codes. One for a fault fuel pump and one for a bad o2 sensor. I ordered a new Walbro pump and Bosch o2 sensor so I'm waiting for it to get in. I read in the Haynes that a bad o2 sensor will make the car surge and hesitate. I'm going to see if thats the problem. I think it could be a possibility.

Phil93MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

i've got the same issues with hesitation in my car too; and i'm about ready to change out the cam positioning sensor that i think is causing the problem; i'm hoping it will solve it, i'll get back to you if it does so that u kno

KRMaxima21

Update: I changed the coolant temperature sending unit, spark plugs, spark plug wires, oil fluid, tranny fluid and filter, fuel filter, CAI filter and did a profession fuel injection. It still runs the same so all I have left is the o2 sensor and the fuel pump. After that then I'm going to see if it's just a bad injerctor but I greatly doubt it. Would an o2 sensor make a car run so poorly or hesitate. Could it be like when the car is cold the o2 sensor says the car runs fine but when the o2 sensor gets warm or heats up it starts the hesitating and slightly backfiring

longjuanfeng

Did you check the resistance of your coolant temp sensor with an ohmmeter? If you didn't, would you mind doing so and posting the results? My coolant temp sensor reads 3.4ohms (I also have a hesitation problem only at hot temps) and I think it should read around 3k ohms at room temp. See my thread called "VE30 Engine Diagnosis" for more details on my troubleshooting.

Thanks and Good Luck

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

You replaced the SENDER or the SENSOR?

KRMaxima21

I replaced the sending unit. The small bolt with the red colored connector on it. I HAVE A FEELING I JUST MADE A BONEHEADED MISTAKE. It's not the same as the sensor is it ?

donts7

[QUOTE=longjuanfeng]Did you check the resistance of your coolant temp sensor with an ohmmeter? If you didn't, would you mind doing so and posting the results? My coolant temp sensor reads 3.4ohms (I also have a hesitation problem only at hot temps) and I think it should read around 3k ohms at room temp. See my thread called "VE30 Engine Diagnosis" for more details on my troubleshooting.

I measured the resistance on my coolant sensor at 0 centigrade and it was 2.2K
3.4 ohms is basicly shorted.Hope this helps.
Regards Don
1992 Ve

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

No. The red sensor is the one. I would cleaned the connector first but replacing is probably a good idea. How does it run?

KRMaxima21

Runs the same but I still have the o2 sensor and fuel pump left. I'm going to try an educated guess and see if the o2 sensor when heated is making the car run poorly because when the car is cold and it's warming up it sounds and runs fine. Until it heats up and I take it when the engine heats up and puts out a higher heat exhaust the o2 sensor is making the car run too lean i believe which is causing the hesitating between 2-2.5k rpms but it doesnt happen when I start to speed up and getting higher in the power band but if I take my foot off the accelerator it'll start to choke possibly because the heat temp drops for a moment from me not pressing the gas and then going back and pressing it start the whole choking process again (I COULD DEFINITELY BE WRONG !!). So I'm going to swap it in the morning and see what happens. Then I gotta do my fuel pump(it's throwing a code) and if it doesn't go away then, I go to Royal Japan Engines and pick out a new JDM VG !!

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I would think if it was the fuel pump, it would run bad all the time. 02 could be it as the ecu ingores the 02 signal when it's in open loop(warming up). How old is it? When my 02 was old, it didn't cause a hesitation but it just gave all around poor performance and crappy gas mileage.

Also check for proper EGR function and see if the PCV valve is okay.

KRMaxima21

Changed the o2 sensor and everything is good !! Runs better and no more choking. The old one was done. I guess the Warpspeed Y-pipe realy did it in. Anyway, it's running perfectly fine and the gas mileage is much better. Good luck to anybody else who is having similar problems. Thanks everybody for your help and giving me other options I wouldn't have figured out myself !!