Well, I finally got the car up and running again after my fiasco(read more here -> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=285375). I ended up replacing the following things on the car. The knock sensor, temperature sensor, thermostat, O2 sensor, 1 injector, all the fuel injector hose, and all the vacuum tubing. First thing I noticed was that the car has a little more low end pep and the car idles more steadily. I used to have a hanging idle but that seems to be gone now. The car now runs cooler. The temperature used to hang a little above the middle on the gauge but now it hangs a little below the middle. Overall, It was a little painful doing all this work but I've learned alot. I don't feel as intimidated taking the car apart and putting it back together. The next job I will tackle will be a new flywheel and clutch. Hopefully this will go a little more smoothly, though. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments from everyone.

Nice. I have yet to replace my knock sensor. On the dyno, I lost about 10-15hp because of the heat soak. Putting a 470k ohm resitor on that and setting my timing back to stock (15*) fixed it.

Btw, I'm at 173,000 miles and my VTC's do not tick either.

Sweet! I was helping a friend replace his valve cover gaskets today

I should have just done my KS when I had my intake apart for porting, after I get a few more quarks worked out of the car I'll work on performance heheh

There are a few different thermostats available on the market - OEM and with lower temp. It seems you got the second one. That's why engine temp. is below the middle. It should give you better performance (HP) but more "pressure" on the engine too.
Am I right, guys?

I wouldnt really worry about putting more pressure on the engine, it just changes when the t-stat opens.

Pressure is "controlled" by your radiator cap, not your t-stat.

I should have said: ... more "stress" on the engine because it is running cooler. I didn't use word "pressure" in meaning of fluid pressure. Sorry about this confusion.

Its only ten degrees F cooler. Nissan actually says to make this change in an TSB.

Also, Aaron tested the new 170F thermostates and found that they are still opening at 180F just as the OEM. I was a little ****ed when I heard that. He actually retrofitted a different thermostate and made it fit his max, he has one working at 160F now.

SmithAtlanta, congrats on all the work done. did you replace the subharness on the KS when you replaced it? Its not the KS that's going bad, its the subharness that corroding badly and causing a rediculously high resistance (In my case it was reading 5Meg ohm, instead of near 0.5Meg ohm). I also found a big increase in low end when I cleaned my subharness.

Yes, I replaced the sub harness also. I was surprised to see that the knock sensor and sub harness were not in that bad a condition. I mainly replaced all these parts because I've been slacking a little on the upkeep of the car. Besides regular oil, filter, and spark plug changes I haven't done too much to the car since I bought it back in 93. I definitely picked up some power on the low end but my clutch is also slipping a little so when I get the clutch(ACT) and flywheel (thinking fidenza) done I should be able to give an even better report.

On the thermostat, I just used whatever part they suggested at courtesy. I bought all the parts from them except for the injector which I bought from directauto. I also forgot to mentioned that I changed all the belts out also. The car really runs smoothly.

Does that mean you've never replaced the clutch/tranny fluid? You might wanna do that even before you do the clutch job, then change the fluid again when you do the clutch.

I've changed the tranny fluid(redline) several times along with the brake and clutch fluid. I haven't let the fluids, filters, or PCV valve slide . I've just mainly let things like seals, gaskets, and sensors slide. What kind of flywheel would you go with? I've had it replaced once(around 90,000 miles) in the 180,000 miles I've owned the car. I was thinking that it was about time to replace the flywheel. I guess I could see if it's still within tolerances and get it machined but I do alot of stop and go driving and I have a feeling that it's towards the end of it's life.

You sound on the ball though, compared to a lot of maxima owners.

Sorry I'm an auto, couldn't make a suggestion.

were is the sub harness for the ks i have the fsm and i can find it

thanks

Are you asking for the part number or just where it's located? The knock sensor itself bolts to the block. The knock sensor connects to the sub harness which then connects to another harness which is located just to the right and a little forward of the thermostat housing(on the VE30DE). The part number for the sub harness is 24020-7E060. Here's more about the TSB: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=179903