Anyone have the low down on axel removal? I replaced the passenger side one after replacing a CV boot. However, most of the write ups out there were pretty crappy on the subject. Each one seemed to go about it a different way. I followed one stating to remove the tie rod end with a ball joint/pickle fork. That was the wrong thing to do as it really F'd up the boot on the tie rod end even though I went at it with care. Plus now I find that messin with that will throw off your alignment. After the tie rod end, I just removed the three bolts under the ball joint and had enough play to get the halfshaft outta there.

Chilton just states to unbolt the ball joint. Is that the best way to go about it? Also what special tool does it take and where can you get it to remove the tie rod end without tearin' the thing all up?

 

you're not reading the right FAQs then.

you don't need any special tools to remove the tie rod end- even though it's not necessary in this case.

to pull the axle, all you need to do is remove the three bolts on the ball joint and you can swing the whole spindle out of the way.

if you need to remove the tie rod end, grab an extra 12mm nut (an old lugnut works great- same thread size and pitch).... once you remove the castle nut from the tie rod end, thread your spare one on there until it's just about flush with the end of the threaded portion of the rod end... then get out your favorite hammer and start whacking on it.. make sure you don't hit the screw part of the tie rod end though- you don't want to mess up the threads on it. when you've finally knocked it loose, remove the old nut and throw it away- it's probably damaged beyond using again, unless it's for the same thing elsewhere..

you can also hit the end of the outer housing on the spindle with a hammer, to pop the tie rod end loose. it wont' permanently deform it, but it will cause the hole to change shape just long enough for the tie rod itself to break loose and pop out.

 

Uh, I wouldn't hit it with a hammer.. (Also it's not a 12mm nut but that's beside the point..) that's what I did (a recomendation from pep boys) and I warped some of the threads (fortunately, these were outside the nut/cotter pin so I just filed them off.)

In the Hayne's book it says to use a screw puller (like you'd use to pull gears -- they sell these near the pickle forks at PBs-- unfortunately, this didn't work for me.

If you get the right size pickle fork and lift the boot over it you shouldn't have a problem (my alignment seems allright after this whole ordeal but is probablly is slightly off.. ) Taking off your rotor will probablly slightly effect your alignmrnt no matter what you do anyway..

Z

 

as long as you thread the bolt on far enough you shouldn't hurt the treads at all. I've done it plenty of times like that and I'm sure that matt has done it probably more than all of us combined. He the suspension master
to him

 

I think Matt was talking about the diameter of the bolt used in the tie rod, not the head. (ie M12x1.25)

I've used a pickle fork to remove the tie rod several times. You have to be careful on the first few hits to make sure the fork is going under the boot and not tearing it (I used a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the boot up while I was getting the fork under there).
Or like Matt said, you can keep that on and swing the whole thing out of the way, but use something to support it so it's not just hanging by the tie rod.

 

Zach, then you didn't do it properly. As I said on the nut (which, btw, is a 12mm x 1.25mm thread. not the wrench size used on it (19mm)), you MUST screw it on so that the stud is almost flush with the top of the nut. if you only use two or three threads, you're going to ruin it, as you did. I have pulled my tie rod ends loose dozens- yes, DOZENS of times this way and have yet to damage a thread. ruined lugnuts, yes. ruined tie rod, no.


Craig, I don't even both pulling the strut and spindle apart.. I just pull the three bolts loose on the control arm and let the strut assembly hold the whole mess up. it's a little more difficult, but if you do that, you're sure not to FUBAR your alignment (camber bolts and such are a PITA when you have to do suspension work)

 

i just got done doing this over the weekend. i just used the castle nut to bang on however i turn it over so that i hit the flat part of the nut so i didn't bend the castle part. that works really well at getting it off but sometimes the dang thing just doesn't want to go. if you beat on it for a while and it still doesn't want to go they actually make tie rod engine pullers that pop them out extremely well.

when i pull the axle off i usually just pull the hub off with it since it's not that hard to do and it also gives me a bit extra to pull on. i've done this 3 or 4 times now and not once have i threw the alignment off nor had any troubles.

 

You use a long prybar to pry up on the tie rod. Then whack the SIDE of the tie rod and it just pops off. Works good and saves the threads and doesn't fubar the boots.

 

[QUOTE=Matt93SE]Zach, then you didn't do it properly. As I said on the nut (which, btw, is a 12mm x 1.25mm thread. not the wrench size used on it (19mm)), you MUST screw it on so that the stud is almost flush with the top of the nut. if you only use two or three threads, you're going to ruin it, as you did. I have pulled my tie rod ends loose dozens- yes, DOZENS of times this way and have yet to damage a thread. ruined lugnuts, yes. ruined tie rod, no.

Matt -

I stand corrected, and I apologize -- I certainly didn't mean to step on your toes, though it sounded like I was. I am at best, a novice mechanic, I intended only to recount my experience which obviously was not a good one (I was pounding so hard on the nut I was destined to damage something anyway. I even tried lowering the tie-rod onto a floor jack which was admittadly pretty stupid and maybe what caused my threads to warp -- after pounding the shh out of it.) ((I did have jack stand a 1/2 in beneath the frame while doing this, but it still was a bad idea..))

Zach

 

Hey Matt93SE, I removed the 3 bolts to remove my axle, and since it was busted half of it was already out, but how do you remove the part of the axle that goes into the Tranny? Do you have to remove the pan and undo something from inside, like a c-clip?

 

just have to yank it out. can be a major pain sometimes but they'll eventually come out.

 

Alright thanks. I'm going to try it when I get home tonight. I just hope I don't yank it off the jackstands! I was trying to pull it out yesterday and the damn thing wouldn't come out. I thought maybe something was holding it in like a clip, but I guess all it needs is a little elbow grease.

 

It's probably stuck inside the support casing. ie.. where you unbolted the 3 little 10mm bolts from. It's common to have it rust in there and get stuck. When you reinstall the cv joint, clean that area out with some fine sandpaper and then apply a light coating of grease to prevent this in the future

 

Which 3 10mm bolts are you referring to? I unbolted the 3 bolts on the bottom of the ball joint down by the a-arm. The part that I can't get out is in the transfer case, but I didn't see any bolts to undo there? I'm confused.

 

just use this...less stress

 

Jeff is referring to the pass side axle. there's a carrier bearing on it w/ 3 10mm bolts holding it to the motor.

 

I'm trying to get out the driver's side axle. So that's why I didn't know which 3 bolts you were talking about. Do I have to undo the pass. side to take out the driver's side?

 

just move all your strut and hub **** outta the way then make sure you pull on it at a straight angle. actually after you get the 3 ball joint nuts and axle nut off and pull it out of the hub it shouldn't be too hard to get out of the tranny. Now, the PS is a completely diff. story. I have a lot of trouble getting it out of the carrier bearing.

 

Here is a pretty good instruction:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401

That's for a the 4th gen but our car is really the same, there were virtually zero differrences as far as the cv axle assembly goes.

The tools that are vital to the removal process would be a vise, a SLIDE hammer (both this site and the picture from Danny's post above mentioned it), duct tapes, degreasers, and some of the basic tools that you got.

Note that you could just just rent a slide hammer from both Autozone and Pepboys by leaving them a deposit. They'll refund you your full amount back when you return it. Don't loose your receipt.

 

another thing, YOU DON"T NEED TO REMOVE THE TIE ROD in order to remove the axle assembly NOT unless you feel like donating $65 for a wheel alignment afterward. Just take your axle nuts off, abs sensor, brake related thinggies that might be in the way, and the two strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts. That's it. Twist the freaking axle a little and jiggle it out of the spindle. If it's a little tight, just take a punch and hammer, then tap onto the bore of the axle spline to drive it out. Once it's out of the spindle, it should be a piece of cake. The driver side cv axle assembly got no bolts that tightened it down, so remove that side first. Then remove the 3 nuts on the passenger axle...now take a punch and hammer to tap the passenger side out from the opposite slot where the driver side axle has resided. Make sure when you pull it out, you use a crow bar or some other alternative pullers in order to prevent damages to the axle assembly. Also, you might wanna have some new seals handy cuz the axle is pretty sharp, it might tear the tranny seal apart while you're removing it.

 

Goodness.....!!!..You don't need to pull the freaking hub off not unless you gotta change the wheel bearing cuz that'll damage the whole wheel bearing assembly. I think this fella is referring to the whole spindle alone which should be more accurated.

 

Yeah I didn't mean hub sorry

 

Removing steering knuckle to strut bolts could throw off alignment too.

 

Well I finally did it! After putting it off all weekend, I pulled out the rest of the axle. I already had the 3 bolts off of the ball joint, so putting in the new one was relatively easy. It seems to have seated fine. I used a hammer to bang it in the last 1/4 of an inch (of course only hitting the nut). I wanted to thank all of you for your advice it really helped. So far today, no leaks and I'm finally driving my max again. It sure beats the hell out of having to drive my wife's civic.