unfortunitly nissan already basicly ported the heads and gave the max pretty good cams to begine with unlike the BIG3 which restricted the HELL out of most of there engines. so cams and porting are good for maybe 15whp if your lucky which = a waste of time and MONEY

turbo is good for....well basicly as much whp as you want

 

mmm... here here, Jeff. I would pay for a detailed write up on this. If you need assitance with HTML / Design, just let me know, MT. I'll do it up for free.

 

Sorry for the late reply. I'm definitely willing to do a faq/write up on this so I don't have to keep typing it out, lol. I'll try figuring out a different way for the manifold setup since the modifications that I had done to the front one might be a bit difficult for some people without the proper tools.

I still believe the best way to do the turbo for our Maxima's is to relocate the turbo like I did but I'll try figuring out an easier way to do it. I have a few ideas so I'll mess with them and see what I can figure out.

I can also do the differences of the different turbo engines. There aren't that many so it shouldn't be too hard to do. Once I get back to my dorm I'll get started on it.

 

I stll wanna know if Jahlil's single fan idea will work...(not sure what the wait is now :\ )if it does than thats an alternative as long as you flip the compressor around and have the intake on the driverside. not really sure on the room in front of the a/c condensor, but what about pusher fans?

 

I wouldn't worry about it over heating if that's what you're talking about on the fan. These engines don't seem to run hot even with a turbo and the fans don't turn on that often. It has to be sitting at idle for a little while for the fans to kick on it seems.

The turbo will clear the motor mount when flipped over but you will definitely have to get a thinner fan shroud like Jahlil did. Even then, it was a bit too close to the radiator/shroud for my tastes but it is an alternative. The only other downside to that setup that I can think of is the exhaust piping will be on the passenger side of the crossmember which I would think would make it hard to run the exhaust through the tunnel that's in the middle of the car. How did Jahlil do his exhaust?

 

DP and full 2.5" fits just fine...



just so people have a clue to what we are talking about...

 

ahh, i see. that does look pretty good.

 

If I only knew how to install an engine....I might learn this summer when I move to SC. Maybe MT could help if I drive to his house to have it installed. At least for a little charge of course. BTW MT where did you fing that engine because I have been searching and all I am getting is the VG30DETT.

 

i kind of found it by mistake almost. i was searching for a vg30det for my friend and the guy who had the vg30det also had the jdm vg30et so i bought it from him. they appear on ebay every once in a while. the easiest way to get one is to just get a usdm vg30et. check the classifieds at http://www.z31.com. they usually have a few listed on there for pretty cheap.

 

I've been looking at some turbo pictures lately (because the seal in mine blew ) and it appears that the T25 that comes on the 87-89 300ZX Turbo actually has a "T3" flange which explains why the turbo on my jdm engine was so small. It was actually in fact a T25 turbo so... if you bought the 87-89 VG30ET you actually wouldn't need the manifolds off of the 84-86 VG30ET. The only differences in the flanges that I can think of would be the discharge side of the turbine housing. I believe the T25 that came on the later VG-T's actually has a 5 bolt setup which seems to be a more common bolt pattern but I'll have to find some more pictures to make sure that's correct. Just thought I'd let you guys know.

Hey Jeff, on the FAQ thing you were asking about are you thinking of a type of Q and A style or something else? Let me know what you think would be best.

 

I thought people knew that...it would be pretty economically unwise for nissan to have to "re-flange" their manifolds after only a 2-3 year run...escpscially since the mani is cast iron(I think its cast iron?)...ouch $$$$

 

actually, i think its cast steel according to Engloid at z31.com (he does a lot of porting of the z31 intakes and stuff). being cast steel would explain why the stuff cuts and welds so easily.

i thought they were different because i remember reading somewhere on z31.com that the t25 flanges were all different. guess they just meant the discharge flange.

 

While I agree that the turbo is a good option, the VG30E cams and heads can benefit greatly from work. The nissan race VG30E was very similar in the short block to our engine, though it had higher compression, but most of the gains were in the heads. With a Nismo or JWT stage 1 cam and serious head work, you could be looking at numbers similar to or greater than what MtCookson posted. If you upgrade the valve train to allow revving to 7k, the gains just increase. As for cost...you'd be looking at spending near to the same for the machining that Mt payed to do his own work...so I'm not sure if it's worth it.

 

All the Z31 turbos came with a T3 style flange(4 bolt). But only the later 87-88s came with the T3 sized turbo. You can tell the T3 as the WG flapper is built into the downpipe flange. The T25 WG flapper is built into the turbo housing itself.

 

This is probably a repost, but some of you may not have seen it ..

http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/Dyno_comparos-1.htm

Index with various goodies..

http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/

 

Actually, it was the 87-89's that came with the T25 while the 84-86's had the T3. The 84 T3 turbo didn't have the water jackets whereas the 85-86 T3's did. I'm pretty sure all years of the T25 turboes had water jackets in them.

I've not seen that before. According to that I should be pulling, at the least, 259 hp at 15 psi. If I can get my intercooler installed tomorrow when I get down to the dyno on Saturday I'll turn it up to 15 psi and see what I can get.

 

cant wait to see the dyno numbers

good luck with the intercooler