Hey how's everyone? Ok this is for our 93SE 5spd!. We are about doing lots of repairs on the engine... oil pan, crank seals, rod bearing, VTCs, KS... And after adding up for the budget, we are thinking about a swap! I know guys on this forum dont like repetitive questions, but I wasn't able to find the info I was looking for. So here it is, What do I need in order to put a 95-99 VQ in this 93. Is the engine mounts the same? Will the tranny fit? I probably need a ECU but will the wiring have to be swap? I've do that kinda swap on other cars before but never with a Nissan any good info will be appreciated thanks.

 

1. Why do you need new rod bearings?
2. make sure you get a new harness with that KS
3. Researching can save lots of money (ie. you might not need a KS, instead your KS could be good but your harness might just need to be replaced.
4. Oil pan just means gaskets right?
5. The rear crank seal is probably still intact, the rear oil pan seal most likely needs to be replaced.

And I wouldn't even bother swapping in a VQ. Not only do you loose the Variable Cams and Variable Intake, you loose a bunch of the engines stroke. IMHO the VE is much more fun.

 

you'll need lotsa money.
It is nowhere near a direct swap. You'd have as good a shot at putting in a 2.8 GM in it.

 

motor mounts and tranny are alot different

got a big welder and some fab skills

got a solding gun and some wire skills

it could be done but id be much easier and cheaper to fix the VE

maximas are not like hondas when it comes to engine swaps

 

I wish they were, we'd all be rollin around in max's with VG30deTT's

 

Dont listen to them, just slap that baby in and your ready to go! Plug and play!

 

Rod bearings: this is a car with 200k + and it is a tech on the road car so it cannot be A1 running so Rodbearings are just some Preventive maintenance.

KS: I know all about the harness, its just that to me its not worth it to take the intake plenum out with doing it. (I dont want to have to remove it again next year)

Oil pan: rusted out to hell, oil comming trought!!! Damn thing, its our third VE and its the 2nd with this prob.(My SHOs have aluminum pans..)

Crank seal: well both are leaking but the front one splashes everywhere aroud there.

VTCs: well its so cheap to do them....

 

Now thats comedy!

 

um correct me if im wrong but im not sure how your going to rebiult your vtcs without removing the intake maniphold so there should be no problems with changing the KS harness

 

That's exactly my point! I might as well redo everything while I have the engine appart(well valve covers, intake, oil pan..) I really don't feel like starting over everytime that something will break. (the secret is Preventive Maintenance)

So I guess I keep the car with the VE in and fix it up. I was looking into it cuz I love the torque that the VQ gives over the VE. I got a friend with a 97 5spd and my dad has 04 6spd and the torque in those engines is amazing. The VE still pulls pretty good from low RPMs too (we also have 3 SHOs V6 in the driveway and they don't feel as torquey as the VE does at low RPMs).

Anyways, I would like to say thanks for your inputs and I'll go get myself dirty under that VE.... bye

 

Oh ya one more thing, Its nice to have people changing the quotes under my name to make me look stupid. I said it in my first post that I searched the posts and wasn't able to find the info I needed! What is the purpose of this forum if its like that! Maybe you should just close it down and have a online archive!!! Just do a search on any freaking topic on this maxima forum and you'll realized that more than 50% of the replys are people *****ing about bla bla bla read.... bla bla bla FAQ.... Just so sad!! Don't get me wrong, I love my maximas and the fact that I can consult others online but something this place sucks because of the few smart ones that know everything and won't share unless making fun of the inquiring person. For those of you that helped, good work and thanks again and to the pleasure of meeting you (online) again.

 

Dude, it says that till you get over 50 posts, dont take it personally, we all had to deal with it at one time.
As far as the flaming goes, i guess people just get sick of answering the same questions over and over. Chances are, the questions your looking for have probably been answered before, it just takes 4308743074038 hours to sift through all the b.s. to find it. This place is more like a gang then an organization. You have to get jumped in first, then if you ask anything thats been asked before, your gonna take an even worse beating. Sucks, i know but on the upside this is the best place to go for info on your max.

 

Na, when I first joined I didn't get reamed or anything I wasn't even told to search (hehehhehe). Also the new member titles were put in place maybe 9 months ago? It's because we would have tons and tons of threads asking the same thing (what lights can I put in my gauges, can i put a VG30DETT in my car, can I put an RB26DETT in my car, can I put a hamster cage in my car....).

Personally I wouldn't bother with the bearings. The engine still has plenty of life. Then again after thinking about it, I'd measure it, see how much play it has then decide, I am 99.8% sure your still well within factory specs. With all this work, you might want to consider building up a spare motor. Measure it to make sure you can get away with just honing it and not boring it abit. Get the heads rebuilt, and new rings (Total Seal makes a nice product, but they are expensive compared to your standard type). I dunno heh, just do whatever, just replacing the knock sensor and vtc's you'll still have a good reliable engine that has plenty of getup in it.

 

imho ve is a better motor....

 

Rod bearings can easily last 400k miles on a car that has had it's oil level kept correct and changed on time.

 

speaking of bearings, how would one know if the engine spun a bearing? will it lock up, make noise, or something else?

 

either lock up or knock.

 

With the oilpan already being dropped anyway plus you said its rusted out? I've never priced the RBs for our car but they can't be that bad. The Clevite's I have bought were always reasonably priced and its not super time consuming to do. By the way I've got a 93 5spd I just wrecked but the motor still looks good so if you need anything let me know.
andrew.jenco@bausa.com

 

Well the bearing job is done!! And my intuition paid off since the where worn out and decolored. There was a bit of side play on 2 of the rods cap but beside that its all fine! This is something I would recommend for anyone how has lots of Ks on their car. I got mine here at Carquest for $50 Cdn ! So for you folks it should be even cheaper on your side of the border! anyways you all take care now! bye

 

Just curious, since it was only rod bearings did you replace the bearings from below?

MIKE

 

Yes I did. You need first to support the engine with a hoist. Then remove the cross member along with the 2 motor mounts. And that's it, the oil pan is all yours.