Toysrme

Toyota Denso YZZA2 pulled apart


Denso VS Carquest Premium (Wix)

Media thickness = DENSO
Pleat Count = WIX
Filter area = DENSO







The current Denso YZZA1 VS Purolator L14477 VS Advance Auto Parts Totalgrip AA4386 VS NAPA Gold 1396 (Equivalent to Wix 51396)

Toysrme

MEDIA Characteristics
Element Dimensions:
Purolator: 2.5” high x 2” diameter
AAP: Identical to Purolator
NAPA: 2” high x 2.25” diameter
Toyota: 2.5” high x 2-7/16” diameter
Pleats:
Purolator: 50 pleats; 7/16” pleat depth
AAP: 52 pleats; 7/16” pleat depth
NAPA: 50 pleats; 6/16” pleat depth
Toyota: 6 blocks of 10 pleats; approx 6/16” avg. pleat depth
Area:
Purolator: 104.6 sq. in. (46-1/2”x2-1/4”)
AAP: 108.6 sq. in. (48-1/4”x2-1/4”)
NAPA: 75.3 sq. in. (43”x1-3/4”)
Toyota: 135.4 sq. in. (57”x2-3/8”)
Thickness
Purolator: About 1/32”, slightly fuzzier than others
AAP: About 25% thinner than Purolator and feels somewhat more compressed
NAPA: About same thickness as Purolator,
Toyota: About 50% thicker than Purolator, with a slightly fuzzier feel than any of the others except the Purolator

Bypass valve
Purolator: The bypass uses a metal disk attached by a flat spring to the metal end cap at the closed end of the filter. Excess pressure will force the metal disk downward and allow oil to flow into the center tube. Purolator specifies the bypass pressure to be 14-18 PSI on this filter. Pushing down on the disk required a great deal more force than on the other designs and the opening created by doing so was very narrow.
AAP: Identical design to Purolator, I have no factory specs on the bypass pressure. Force required to push down on the valve by hand seemed identical to Purolator.


NAPA: The bypass valve is a separate module at the base of the filter. A ring of holes facing downward toward the inlet holes is backed by a rubber gasket in front of a metal disk. The disk is held down by a coil spring. If the pressure limit is exceeded, the disk is forced up, allowing oil to flow through directly to the outlet hole. With this design oil does not have to wash over the dirty side of the media to exit the filter like for the other designs where the bypass is on the closed end of the filter. Bypass pressure is specified as 8-11 PSI and the bypass was considerably easier to open by hand than with the Purolator/AAP. The opening area is also much larger than for the Purolator/AAP.


Toyota: Toyota uses exactly the same style of bypass as the Purolator/AAP. Due to the cardboard end-caps, a metal cap piece in the filter contains the bypass valve. Toyota specifies the bypass pressure as 14.3 PSI. Pushing in the bypass by hand required much less force than the Purolator/AAP, but it was still difficult to get the disk pushed down far enough for other than a very narrow opening.

Toysrme

Center Tubes

Purolator: Uses a metal center tube with 169 holes, each about 3/32” dia. The center tube does not extend all the way to the top of the filter element. ½” of filter element at the top of the filter is exposed without additional support beyond the center tube.
AAP: Identical to Purolator


NAPA: Spiral construction metal center tube, much more rigid than Purolator/AAP or Toyota. 52 holes, each about 5/32” diameter.


Toyota: Metal center tube with 153 holes, each approx 3/32” diameter.

Toysrme

Flow Area Characteristics – Attempts to show the various flow restriction points as the oil flows through the filter (aside from the media itself)

Base Gaskets
Purolator: Rectangular profile held by six crimps
AAP: Identical to Purolator


NAPA: Rectangular profile held by eight crimps, a bit thicker than Purolator


Toyota: Rounded gasket held by 12 tabs. Seems like a stretchier and softer rubber than on the other filters. There is a clear grease between the gasket and the filter base.



Denso YZZA1's are great!




Not to flood, but when you're talking oil filter compairo's, 3/4 pics a thread just can't cut it!

Tarzan

So, which of them is better? And is any of them better than Nissan OEM?

glacier985

yea, what filter should I go with for my gf's max? the parts bin one that is white? or the toyota one and risk getting the crappy one?

AndyVE30DE

Hey guys I'm new to this forum. Anyway I went to Toyota dealer today and I was told that that 90915-YZZF1 is exactly the same the 90915-YZZF2 except it is a little bigger. Just wondered if anybody has tried this filter. My only concern is if it will flow the same as the 90915-YZZF2
Thanks

-shock211-

iTrader: (1)

i now use this filter and i've noticed the engine to be a slight quieter at start up in the cold. unfortunately the thailand filters suck compared to the japanese ones. in terms of construction that is.

crazy4maxima

iTrader: (5)

OK just jumped on the band wagon. I got my oil changed done. Well My engine is ticking like crazy and rattling. I went to the toyota dealer and got two and told the parts guy the part number, and asked what type of toyota car that i needed it for. I replyed for a nissan maxima and gave him a part number, he was dumbfounded. Paid the cashier and went on my way. $5.98 each. I went to R&s Strauss and got myself a quart of lucas oil stabilizer and went to my mech. Put the oil filter on and put the lucas oil, as well as 10w-40 castrol oil in her. First thing that i noticed is that the comparison of the old bosch filter and the yoyo filter size is almost half. I was worried about the size, but since I trust the org i gave it a wirle. Got everything together, and started her up, after 5 minutes, the engine quieted almost 60% of the noise the engine used to make. What a difference. Now i got to see what she sounds like after a few 100 miles. Well just some feed back.

Also the toyota filter that was sold to me 90915-YZZF2 was made in thailand not japan

crazy4maxima

iTrader: (5)

hey guys did a search on ebay and i am gonna kick my self...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CASE-...QQcmdZViewItem

10 lot of toyoya filters for 35.99 shipped but its the thia made ones. Better than nothing!

vansskaterfreek

iTrader: (14)

well its time for the first oil change with my new VE motor.. i currently have the fram one... i want to do the toyota one..... but i have no VTC noise at all and i have 70k on the clock... should i get the big toyota filter or the small?

crazy4maxima

iTrader: (5)

Any ideas on the 6 cylinder Toyota #90915-YZZD1 filter??? same or better than the 90915-yzzf2??? i was just wondering since its should be bigger than the one i just put on.

So far with the lucas oil stabilizer and the yzzf2 filter and 10w-40 noise has been cut down considerably(sp?) after max warms up.

Any takers?

Raydoug

Stopped today to buy a OEM Toyota filter p/n 90915-YZZA2 and they said is was replaced by a OEM Toyota filter p/n 90915-YZZF2.

Is this the same filter? Will is work on a 94 Nissan Maxima VE30DE?

Although my VTCs were ticking, the car is now making more of a whirling noise at accerleration, almost like a belt noise but I removed the belts and the nosie did not go away. It does it in park or drive. Could this still be the VTCs or is it the timing chain/tensioner??? Any help to diagnose this problem would be helpful.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Doug

andy044

iTrader: (5)

have you tried grounding the VTCs?

Craig Brace has a wonderfulyl ehlpful page on it
http://www.geocities.com/bracecraig/maxima/vtc/vtc.html

yes #90915-yzzf2 will work
i bought one yesterday too. it looks like baby's first oil filter

Raydoug

I installed the OEM Toyota filter p/n 90915-YZZA2.

Still making noise as described below. Has anyone grounded the VTC soleniods? Does this really help? I did disconnect them and then energized them one at a time, but the nosie did not change.

"Although my VTCs were ticking, the car is now making more of a whirling noise at acceleration, almost like a belt noise but I removed the belts and the nosie did not go away. It does it in park or drive and only upon acceleration. Could this still be the VTCs or is it the timing chain/tensioner???"

Any help to diagnose this problem would be helpful and greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Doug

fuzzyuu

Hey all, I thought that I would let you know that there is a new Toyota Filter out there. It's for the new '06 Corolla's, numbered 90915-YZZF1. It's bigger than the other filter and fits just as well. I've put about 1.5K on this one and seems just as good as the others. No problems with the VTC's. Also, it costs the same $5.99 at the stealership. Pic below.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

i have the 90915-YZZD3 its kinda big, i need to get a new one, is anyone else using the D3?????

tobinaz

by the way, is there a better way to change filter on a VG30E engine to avoid oil spill?

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

flip the car over

TempMaxMan

This is a good thread. Thanks.

I generally like to use filters from Advance Auto for convenience. Ideally and hopefully, the cross reference with the toyota and or possibly the maxima part number should pull up the proper design filter.

But, as the main concern seems to be volume/capacity and anti drain design, I suppose getting a filter that you know cross references with a 6 cylinder or about 3 liter engine is good for capacity ... but what is the way to identify the anti drain design?

Do you have to take it apart to identify anti drain? Will some boxes/filters be labeled "anti drain"?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

very rarely marked, just get the higher end filters and you'll probably be OK

TempMaxMan

Thanks fore the reply, but, I'm not really interested in going with luck in this case. If I must then I have no choice and will, but I'd rather not.

Anybody know the aftermarket part numbers that have the 3.0L/6 Cylinder volume with anti drain design that work on the VE30DE?

I'm going to be workong on the max, but it will be oin my mother's gravel driveway since it is her car and she doesn't want to drive it as is. Plus, I'm on a bit of a tight schedule.

The last thing I plan to do is change the oil and filter. But, I may just have Nissan do that since I'll be sending the car in for an auto tranny inspectyion and service. Lots of mechanics, especially at dealerships, don't like to deal with people telling them that the oil filter's they use are inferior. So, I figure I'll just show up with the filter. But, seems that somebody said their dealer wouldn't intall the Toyota part so I figure I can avoid confrontation by getting an aftermarket filter.

Out of curiousity and to be ideally informed, if the only way to see if the anti drain design is implemented to the filter is to take the filter apart ... then may we all have somebody point out what the anti drain feature is in the pics on page 2 or by using some other pics? I'd appreciate it.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I recommend the napa filter...Made by wix..

TempMaxMan

Thanks. Excuse me for not knowing this, but is "wix" a filter manufacturer or are you conveying something else? I saw the word "wix" tossed around a bit.

**In the event that the picture of the box of the filter that is hosted in the post above this post disappears, the box says NAPA GOLD 1361.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Yes...Wix is filter manufacturer....

http://www.wixfilters.com/

TempMaxMan

Right on. Google could have answered my question, but thanks for doing it anyways.

TempMaxMan

Ha. Just realized this car that I'll be working on actually has the VG30E.

Since it seems people favor the anti drain design for it's ability to lubricate high and quicker more reliably, is the NAPA Gold 1361 compatible with the VG30E?

Michael

iTrader: (21)

you can tell if its an anti drainback or not by looking down into the filter. If you look into the small holes of the filter and see rubber then it has an anti drainback valve.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Yup...compatible...

TempMaxMan

Good stuff. Thanks!

TempMaxMan

Just saw this post. Thanks.

I've seen a lot of holes. Let's clarify.

Do you mean the holes you see in this following pic, with the red stuff/rubber/plastic/whatever behind them being the anti drain feature?

This is of the Denso (referred to as Toyota Denso; North America OEM) First Time Fit filter.
From page 2; thanks to "Toysrme": http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=39 .

TempMaxMan

For the benefit of crazy4maxima, his maxima and any readers:

My theory is that it is possible, depending on what type of oil filter, what type of oil/additives you are using and how clean or dirty your engine internals are.... if you are using that Toyota filter that is made for a smaller displacement 4 cylinder, it may not provide for enough oil flow and only serve to clog oil there thus preventing much of your engine to be lubricated properly.

Luck be with you. You'll need it. The first word in your username suits you, or possibly a better/more accurate one is just "naive".

LUCAS "OIL STABILIZER" IS HORRIBLE!!!!!!!

I only used it once before to keep an engine running that basically had no rod bearing at all on one of the rods and thus a horrible knock leading to the engine being junk anyways.

I knew as soon as I opened the bottle and started TRYING to pour it that it was HORRIBLE. That stuff has the consistency of Elmer's Glue and tree sap OR WORSE.
Common sense tells me that's bad for anything that should be moving very freely with as little resistance as possible while still being lubricated very well. Plus, I Aced physics.

Not only is the stuff like putting glue and tree sap in your engine, thus creating immense resistance, excessive/added pressure in the wrong way, and not being likely to make it to all the small places it needs to lubricate, but even when it does make it into the smaller places .... it produces air bubbles as it is moved around. In other words .... it produces places in the engine that should be lubricated but are actually bone dry minus very little residue from anything that WAS there before.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

When looking at oil additives, make sure the stuff has a consistency more like oil and will actually lubricate. You want something that would flow through a small straw very quickly, barely slower than water, but certainly not like glue or tree sap. Also, attempt to "lather it up" in your hands like soap, but putting it on your hands and rubbing your hands quickly like you are trying to warm them with friction ... to see if the additive produces air bubbles. You don't want something that will produce air bubbles.

You want the engine to run with as little resiatance as possible and be lubricated in every small little crack as best as possible. You also want to be able to drain all of the stuff in the engine when you should/need to. You'll be lucky if you get half of the Lucas you put in to drain as much of it will stick itself all over various parts and stay there. SeaFoam in the crankcase and sucked in a vacuum line via the intake manifold may help get it out. I suggest you do that ASAP.

I suggest that you follow my SeaFoam etc clean, tune up and restore steps here
( http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=24 , http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...9&postcount=30 ), and try some 10-40 or 15-50 Mobile 1 Synthetic with Engine Restore AFTER you do all the steps and drain the crank-case and change the oil filter. If it doesn't make your engine run better and you have large noises of metal on metal coming from your engine, your screwed because the engine internals are overly damaged for other reasons and you might try to bandaid it with some Lucas for a while but you'll need to rebuild the internals (or some of them) or swap a better engine shortly.

The only engine additive that I suggest anyone use, other than only CLEANING with very low mileage use (maybe 25-45 miles max) SeaFoam, is Engine Restore.
http://www.restoreusa.com/
You can buy it at most auto parts stores.

** http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/-521...glepost11.html
"I have used restore on a couple of high mileage motors. It worked just fine. On a slant 6 I had between 90 and 130 for compression readings and after I got 125+ on all cylinders.

It will not restore leaky gaskets or help knocking rods, or extreme oil burners. .."
(
The stuff that does {plug leaks, help knocking rods etc} is generally bad for the engine because it is like glue. If you have a leak or broken internals, replace the parts if you can and if you don't want to create more problems.)

** http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/-523...glepost19.html
"My senior year in highschool, I did an "experiment" for a 4-H project to see whether or not some of these so-called snake oil additives did any good. I took a well used 3.5hp briggs motor, pulled it apart and photographed both the cylinder walls and piston skirts. I also measured compression, and did a "seat of my pants" power feeling on my old go-cart. I poured in a measured amount of Engine Restore, keeping engine restore/engine oil ratios the same. I ran the engine for 40 (I figured 2000 miles for a conservative oil change, 2000 miles/60 mph average= 40 hours.) hours at varying RPMs, shut it down and did compression tests again. It had jumped amazingly, and I changed oil, added the same amount of engine restore, and repeated the 40 hour engine run. I measure compression, more increase was noted, and I put the engine back on the old go-cart. Even for a small 3.5hp briggs, I noticed an increase in power. To not be biased, I used a friend who did not know about the test, and he noted the increase in performance as well. Again I disassembled the engine, photographed the cylinder walls and piston skirts again, and they were also notable smoother. Though I understand that a small Briggs engine is much different that a small block in size and strength, the components are similar as is the general function. I received a blue ribbon at the state fair, and have become a believer of the stuff."

Not unusual with Lucas, but Lucas is not good for your engine. It will bandaid problems for a bit, and cause a lot of problems as time goes on.

I wouldn't even drive it more than 50 miles (maybe 5 miles) with Lucas, if I wanted to do it at all. I'd try my SeaFoam etc clean, tune up and restore steps here ASAP
( http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=24 , http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...9&postcount=30 ), and try some 10-40 or 15-50 Mobile 1 Synthetic with Engine Restore AFTER you do all the steps and drain the crank-case and change the oil filter. And hope for the best. Replace gaskets and parts if necessary, instead of adding glue and tree sap.

Interested in your feedback/update.

Just trying to help.

blackmax42

As was mentioned earlier in this post- Toyota has come our with the 90915-YYZF1. Toyota parts swore it was the "same as the YZZF2 but 20% larger". There has been little feedback by people who have tried this filter so any thoughts would be appreciated. The VTCs on my JDM don't tick and I hope they stay that way. I have been using the smaller YYZF2.

My thoughts are... if the YYZF2 was built for a 4 cyl and our VE30DEs are 6 cyl... the increased capacity is a good thing. Apparently it also has a backflow valve.

elusivemax93

back flow is not good

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

He means a antidrainback valve...

94 max

after reading all this I'm shocked that no one uses a AMSOIL oil filter....a really good filter

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

The only filter i see listed for the VE on amsoil's website is a filter made by wix,the same filter sold at napa..

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/detail.aspx?ID=8396

KeithD

Picked up the toyota F1 filter today, which is the newer bigger one. Says made in Thialand. Cost about 8 bucks cdn, not too bad. Currently I have a junk aftermarket one on there, has a bit of noise at start-up since the cold weather has hit.

Will do an oil change next saturday and report results.

KeithD

Installed toyota filter and Mobil 1 yesterday, only difference is a little less cold (-20c) start-up noise. Other than that, no more or less any other kind of noise. Filter does have a antidrain back valve, and appears to be high quality.

lil humungus

Just spent $100 today for engine system flush service, and high mileage oil (because they didn't have synthetics) with Napa Gold filter.
I should have seen that it was not going to be a good experience. I had to explain to the idiots what ant-drainback was and they thought I had a Toyota.

Overall Outcome: My ticking sounds even worse, the POS even seems to be running different, I hate Jiffy Lube , VTC's have ruined my week, and I am getting drunk tonight.