Pit5Bull

I know I've been away for awhile, but now I'm back...

I've been experiencing this very loud vibrational noise that occurs only when my car is moving at least 20mph+. I was told by a mechanic that my R&P assembly needs to be completely replaced because one of the CV-boot looking covers on the front passenger side of my car (upper suspension arm?) was ruptured, and that there's something within the R&P that is rattling around within the assembly because all of the fluid surrounding whatever this thing is, is gone. He said there's no other way of ridding the car of the noise, unfortunately, but as long as my power steering fluid is full in the reservoir, I won't have any major failures until I can have the R&P replaced. He also mentioned that it was going to run me upwards of $400 to replace the entire R&P assembly because it sits under the engine & has to be removed in order to replace it. I had originally thought that it was the front axle, and subsequently went and had the front passenger side replaced, thinking it would solve the problem, but it didn't make a difference. According to the mechanic, I was going to have to replace the front axle soon anyway (sigh), so it's good that I got part of it done.

I can also smell something that can only be described as the kind of smell you get when something's been sitting too close to an open heat source, but it wasn't burned, if that makes any sense, on the front passenger side of my car. The area is no longer leaking, to my knowledge, and I can't figure out what kind of fluid that it was. I recently had an oil change, and the mechanic told me that all of my fluid levels were fine. I haven't had to add any of the primary fluids to the car at all, so I'm wondering if this mechanic's just trying to stick me up, or if he's telling the truth. I'm back to working again, so I'm trying to get the ride back up and running as it should be. Hopefully everything I've been wanting to do with it will soon become a reality!

So I submit my problem to the gurus of the .org for guidance, once again.

All suggestions and help is greatly appreciated.

peace2u

Pit5Bull

Please!!!

Anybody that's experienced this and can lend a little advice, I'd really appreciate it.

peace2u

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

you dont need to remove the motor to change the rack and pinion...

Pit5Bull

Well, the problem's been solved... Went to the local Pep Boys to get this thing taken care of finally since I just couldn't stand the noise and not knowing what the problem was anymore, plus I had the $$$ to take care of it

1) The Rack & Pinion was only part of the problem... Both of the dust boots were completely ripped apart and there was fluid leaking everywhere.

2) The noise was coming from the driver's side wheel bearing. The mechanic showed me a great deal of play in the wheel (shook it with one hand, parked). Fortunately the axle on that side was in good shape, so I didn't have to worry about replacing that too...

3) Front suspension was shot, which I already knew about... That's the next project...

All totaled to replace the R&P, the front wheel bearing & a front end alignment came to $650. I decided to go with Pep Boys since they give a lifetime warranty on their parts, and he gave me a 6 month warranty on the alignment, so after I get my new suspension installed somewhere else (KYB GR-2s & Eibach Pro), they'll realign it for free

Hopefully, if anybody else has a problem with a low, droning noise that just seems to get louder and louder while the car is in motion, it could just be the front wheel bearings.

Onward with the rest of the mods

peace2u

lubricity

I was going to say wheel bearing.
But that was a super price to do all that. At garages around hear, you are looking at about $1200

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

you still didn't need to replace the steering rack. if it was still holding fluid and wasn't making noise when you turned the wheel, then all you needed to do was replace the bellows boots- for $10 a side.

I was going to say the other problem sounded like a wheel bearing, and not steering.. little late now... sorry I didn't see this post till now.

5 ltr. beater

I was going to tell you that it wasnt your R&P but you seemed to have figured that one out. The reason I say so is because when i bought my Max. 2 weeks ago; as soon as I took it for a test drive, the car would not stay in one lane; it's like the car had a mind of its own. Also, with the engine running and the car in park, if I were to just turn the wheel to the right or to the left just a 1/4 turn and let go......the sterring wheel would just keep turning in that direction all byitself. When I finally bought it and took it in, they told me the R&P was shot; fortunatly, it was under warranty.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

from times to times, the shock absorbing bush at the tie rod end goes out. so when you make a turn, it'll make some loud noises. change it might cure the problem assuming you don't have a any other problems along the rack.

btw, Energy Suspension makes those bushings...if you know which one fits our car, then share your input here. They're dirt cheap, usually around $5 for both sides, just like the end link bushings for front sway bar.

So, $650 smackarodies for the services is too much. I think that's how much jerryromenissan is selling for the entire rack assembly!

Pit5Bull

@bvtran...

I got the entire R&P replaced with a new one, bro... The $650 included the R&P, front wheel bearing & a front end alignment, and all the labor that went with it. It's running like new almost, and I can't wait to get my intake & y-pipe installed. I'm also planning to get the ground wires too. Next upgrade will have to be the suspension, but I'm not sure if I'm going to try that myself, or if I'll have someone install it for me. We'll see how my next check looks

Thanks for all the advice, guys... even though it was a bit late...

peace2u

gus89se

I am new at this Maxima game having just gotten mine recently but, I know you can get the steering rack out of the car without removing the engine. You just have to be a little patient and careful. The steering rack mounts to the firewall and is held in by two bushing/clamp pieces. the pass. side has two bolts and the drivers side has three. The problem with r & r of the rack, or any part of the steering, is that the alignment is now way off and the car is really hard to drive. You would need to live real close to an alignment shop, and be able to get the car high enough in the air to access it from the under side. This is not a very fun job and may be worth it to get a second price quote/ opinion.

gus