MillaLite

If it aint one thing, its another. Today after I came in from work I parked my car and I came right back outside and the damn thing wouldnt start. When I turned the key, all I got was two "clicks" from the dashboard. I tried a few times and the same thing. The starter nor the engine would crank. Ive never replaced the starter since I had the car so I went to autozone and bought a brand new battery and a rebuilt starter. Installed everything. It started up fine and then it cut off after about a minute or so. Tried to start it up again, and nothing happened. no starter cranking no nothing, just a clicking sound from the dashboard. What would possibly cause this type of problem? I checked the starter fuse and fusible links , all are good. could a bad relay be the cause or maybe that stupid factory anti-theft bullsh!t? How do you check for a bad relay?
Any suggestions...please give me a hoLLA!


PEACE

subs1000w

did you have autozone test your old starter and battery before buying a new one if you didnt that diagnoses could have told you that it was not either of those things causing the problem

it unlikely that its your antitheft

why dont you get a miltimeter and check to see if your getting 12 volts to the starter and starter seloniod when you turn the key if not then thats your problem

DMad8724

iTrader: (4)

charge your battery to 100% and if it starts have autozone check your alternator, that was my problem

MillaLite

I didnt have the old starter or battery tested (which was kinda stupid ) and apparenty I just went out and purchased a new battery and starter for no reason beacause the damn thing still wont start. Im gonna try and test the voltage to the starter as soon as I find my multimeter. Oh..and I just had a new alternator put in beacause my old one died.

Would could be the problem if the starter isnt getting 12 volts?

«§»Craig B«§»

iTrader: (5)

sounds like maybe your alternator is dying or possibly the new plug wasn't installed right
if the alternator is working, the car should just run off it when it's on and not drain the battery

but it is really weird that your car would die so soon after putting a new battery in it (maybe it wasn't charged?)

the clicking that you hear when you're trying to start the car is usually from when the battery has some power left, but not enough to start the car (it takes lots more power to start the car than to run accessories and stuff like that)

First, test the voltage on the battery (get a cheap multimeter for $20 or so that tests voltage, current and resistance - it's a good thing to have anyway). I bet it's probably pretty low. Normally a working battery should read about 12V with the car off. Then try jumpstarting the car (or pop the clutch if it's a 5spd). If you can get it started that way, test the voltage on the battery again while it's running. If your alternator is running and working correctly, it should read 13.6ish.

When the car was on, were there any of the 'idiot lights' on? If the brake and engine light come on together, it usually indicates a bad alternator. But like DMad said, I'd take it to Autozone for a free test.

MillaLite

I had the alternator replaced a few weeks ago because the battery and brake light would come on intermittently while I was driving-> that prob was fixed, now this starting issue. I figured it was the starter So I just went and replaced it myself. Im gonna try to test all af the voltage levels to see if the levels are correct at the battery and the starter.

Could all of this be a voltage reg. or ignition coil issue. I dont know. I fix computers not cars ....HEHEHEHE But I'd rather try to do it myself first....I'll try anything I need my Max to work....so I can get to work.
Help is always appreciated.


PEACE

chrgdRapa

i had the exact same problem. at times it would start just fine, then i turn the car off for about 10 min and it wouldnt start at all.

I have automatic tranny, so this is what i did:

put it in neutral, while braking of course, and it should start right away.

after checking everything there is to check, i concluded that its something with the Park gear in the transmission. it doesnt make any sence but it seems to be the only reason why the car wont start at times. after starting it in Neutral, i didnt have the problem occur again for another three months or so.

good luck

MillaLite

Ok.....I voltage tested everything I could. Im getting 12-13v at the alternator and the starter, but the starter still wont crank when I turn the key. All I get is "idiot lights" and a few clicks from the dash (and i think I heard a tick tick tick from under the hood briefly). The only way I could get the starter to crank is to get under the car and jump the solenoid to the battery (bypassing the ignition switch wire). The starter cranks when I do this but the engine still wont start. I tried it in Park and Neutral, still nothing.

Oh...Isnt the check engine light supposed to come on with the rest of the idiot lights when you turn the key all the way on? When the problem first started The check engine light would also come on, now it doesnt light at all. This was kinda odd to me so I tried to go put the ecu into diagnostic mode so I could get code 55 but its like the ecu is just dead the red and green LEDs dont even flash anymore when I turn the key. Im hoping that I didnt short out anything out when I was trying to test the starter.

Any ideas.....give me a holla


PEACE

MaximamixaM

At least one other person noted a "no start" condition when the check engine light was "not illuminating." So Maxima.org needs to figure this out and get a conclusive answer. I think at least one person had trouble starting and said the ignition switch was the problem-maybe try cycling the switch and see if the CEL will illuminate. Other problems to look for seem to be fuses, neutral safety switch, possibly the auto shifter needing to be in neutral or pushed forward in park, bad distrubotr cap and rotors. The real answer is likely to be found as to why the CEL doesn't illuminate-any ideas?

m_maxxy

Check the "ENGINE CONTROL" fuse! I had the same situation - CEL doesn't light on and engine doesn't start at all. I found that fuse was blown. In my case it keeped getting blown intermittently until I cleaned the inhibitor switch on the tranny. But this is a long and different story...

mpdugg

HI, I am the one who changed my ignition and thought it fixed my problem. It didn't. I need to update that post to reflect that. I haven't had much time to look into the problem but it still occurs. When I get in my car I turn the key to the on position and wait about 4-8 seconds. If the CEL iluminates I turn the key to start and all is well. If it doesn't I turn the key to off and back to on and wait again. Usually after 4 or 5 times it works.

I replaced my fuel pump, wires, cap, rotor, ignition, and put new grounds on the battery cable. I am frustrated but glad the car still runs fine when it starts.

I think I will check the Eng Cont fues like mentioned above.

Matthew

MaximamixaM

Not a mechanic, but googling maxima problems said if no CEL and won't start-try cycling ignition switch and see if cel illuminates and car starts. May reflect a bad green EGI relay in relay box-so check relays and check ecu. Definetly check this eng cont fuse ?relay. I saw a description saying a bad Eng Cont relay could cause trouble starting when it is wet out.