Kenn_B

I have an electrical problem with my 93 Maxima GXE, VG engine, that's driving me nuts. Any help would be MUCH appreciated.

A couple of weeks ago, the charging system (idiot) light started coming on for a while and then going out. I had a 4-month old Sears battery and ignored it - until the batter suddenly went DEAD.

I had the car towed (alternator would not run things), battery terminals and other connections [fusible links, fuses] checked and cleaned), alternator checked -- all okay. Now, the charging check light RARELY comes on, not even with the ignition key on the "on" position. The other lights come on but not the Charging System light.

I popped the $73 for The Manual - not much help there; mostly wiring diagrams for the Charging System. No diagnosis help.

I contacted Nissan America, they said, "call the dealer." The local (15 miles away) Nissan dealer said, "bring the car in and in about two hours and for for $42, we'll check it." No free advice! Hey, I don't have 1/2 day to mess around -- in case it's just a Connection or Fuse Problem. And, $42 more? No thanks. There must be a Better Way - Help on the I-Net? So, here I am.

Any Suggestion(s)?

TIA,

kb

ray89se

u probably have a bad alternator..... one way to test ur alternator is with a volt meter measure the voltage at the battery when the car is running it should read about 14.4 volts turn on ur headlights and ur a/c to check... if it reads like 12.5 or 13 volts ur alternator is going..ur local mechanic will be able to test ur alternator... the dealer on the other hand will be able to test the output of your alternator and the condition ur battery is through a VAT tester... not to many local mechanic shops have this machine beacuse this machine is very expensive.....

Kenn_B

Kenn_B

I didn't know about the VAT tester. I did have the alternator tested at AutoZone - twice. First time they said it was working but the output was low @ 60 amps. Next time they said it was REAL low @ 12 amps. To me that means diodes are probably shot.

But, still, the charging light won't come on. That's what really throws me. Today, it came on with the ignition key on the "on" position. It will not come on with the engine running and the alternator not working. (Maybe I should start another thread with this?).

Then, to replace the alternator, a local mechanic told me to replace the alternator -- and NOT to buy a "cheap" one like, from AutoZone. Reason - the rebuild procedure used, and the electronics are "cheap", the electronics in the alternator might fail and feedback to and destroy the computer! True?? He recommends an alternator from NAPA - twice the price of AutoZone's - and with a warranty that's sure to be less. Well, I have a Nippon alternator now, that lasted just 18 months and 10,000 miles. I don't know who to believe. Or, should I just buy a rebuild kit and replace the electronics? Decisions, decisions ...

kb

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I bought a reman alternator from orielly's almost 3 years ago.. I run a 1100W competition stereo system in my car, so I KNOW I stress this thing out quite often... I have had no problems with the alternator or battery in this 3 years, except when I leave the stereo on too long in the driveway Of course, then it's just plug it into the charger for about 5-10 minutes and crank it over. starts right up and then run the car about 3000 rpm for a few minutes and everything's happy.

but my whole point is I paid $90 for an alternator with these so-called cheap parts.. the thing has lifetime warranty, so if I ever do have problems, I just take it back and get another.

But no, I don't recommend most parts from autozone. I've bought clutch parts from them before and got to drop a transmission on the side of the highway 60 miles later.