Right now, I am replacing 3 torn CV boots on my 1993 SE. Both inner and outer boot on the passenger side and only the outer boot on the driver side axle. I have already cut and removed the old boots, but I cannot separate the axle at the joints in order to put in the new boots. What is the secret on separating the joints? I tried everything but no success. Is there a special tools that I need to use that I could rent/borrow from my local auto stores? Thanks guys.

 

u need that and u need to separate the axle from front suspension its a pain in the *** and while ur there ur goin to need to replace the output shaft seals... i took mine to a local garage and charged me 50 bucks a side... and bought rebuilt shafts for 75 bucks a piece

 

I assume you got them removed from the car correct? Okay so you need to get the actualy cv joint off of the axle. All you have to do is "tap" the cv joint off the axle. There should be some pretty beefy metal ends that you can tap on using a hammer(or hammer and punch) Just be gentle and tap all around the axle so the cv joint comes off even. It's been along time since I did this. There might be a clip that must be removed in order to get the joint off. Take a carefull look before hammering it. Also make note of how far the joint is on the axle BEFORE you take it off.

 

You must dissassemble the inner joint first, then slide the outer boot off from the inside end of the shaft. the outer end isn't supposed to come apart.

If the VE axles are the same design as the VE axles, there will be a large retainer ring around the inside edge of the inner boot housing (it's about 3" diameter). it's about 1/8" inside the lip, completely covered in grease so you can't see it.

I HIGHLY recommend replacing all 4 boots at the same time. I replaced my outer boots one at a time and got to do the entire job 6 months later when the inner boots blew. (which was this weekend). This time I just pulled boh axles and did both inner boots at the same time (outer boots are still in new condition) That means I had to pull each axle twice and drain the tranny fluid 3 times in 6 months. at $4/quart for fluid, that's not cheap. instead of spending $90 for 5qts fluid, 4 boots, and 1 set of seals, I spent $150 on boots, 2 sets of seals, and 15qts fluid. the only benefit is my tranny has very fresh fluid in it.
Plus the time savings.. with an afternoon to do each one, I wasted a couple days worth of labor.

I had my GF take pics with the digicam yesterday while I was doing the job, but she left the disc in the camera so I don't have anything new until I go home again and get the pics. that will be this weekend.

if you need specifics on any part of the job, feel free to ask. it's to the point I could almost to this with my eyes closed.

 

Matt,
Are you going to do a write up with your pics when you get them? I have been meaning to do this now for some time, but I haven't had a chance and it would help me if I saw the pics of what you're talking about exactly.
Also, Jeff/Matt, do you know if it's the same for VE/VG?
thanks

 

Craig, I've done trannies on both the VE and VG 5-sps. From what I see, the CV joints are the same. It's just that Matt just got done doing them and I did mine about 2 years ago. So he has the most recent experience. It's ALOT cheaper to do them like Matt and I did(but a hell of alot more messy). But it's alot EASIER to do it by just replacing the whole axle. If you boots have been ripped for along time and they have been dry and gritty for along time, I bet your CV bearings are shot anyway. If you catch them fairly early, you can just replace the boots/grease.

 

As Jeff said, if you catch torn boots early enough, the joints will still be in good shape. my boot was torn for probably a couple weeks and the joint still had grease in it even though the boot itself was dry.

But yeah, I'm going to to a write up on it sometime soon. I was going to do it last night when I got home, but the disc with pictures wasn't in my car. the GF said she put it in my center console, but that was jsut my box of blanks.. the used disc must still be in the camera.

the procedure is really fairly easy, as long as you are willing to yank your suspension apart.
1. Jack up car, place on jackstands pull front tires.
2. have helper stand on the brakes and pop the large nuts on the wheel hub loose. you will need a huge ratched or impact wrench. these are 2-300 ft.lb of torque. the first time I did it, I was using a 2ft long ratchet.. had a person standing on teh brakes with the car ont eh ground.. I was jumping on the ratchet, actually spinning the tire on the garage floor and it too 10-12 tries to break it loose.
3. remove caliper, rotor, unscrew bolts on strut and ball joint. Drain tranny fluid.
4. swing entire spindle out of the way on the tie rod end, being careful not to turn too much or damage boot on power steering rack.
5. for right side axle, remove 3 12mm nuts on axle brace. spray around axle with liquid wrench, as it's likely a tad bit rusted into place. (you'll see what I'm talking about when you get there).
6. both axles should come out with a sharp yank.
7. rebuild/replace axles as necessary.
8. put it all back together.

If you don it right, you shouldnt even need an alignment afterwards.

 

Thanks Matt and Jeff

if I have some time, I'll try to do it this weekend or next
as you have both said, the joints may have dried out so maybe I do need a new axle, but I'll take a look

thanks again

 

here's the few pics I got from this weekend.. I thought there were more and they were better, but I wasn't the one taking pics.

http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...oots/index.htm

 

Hey Matt, could you please give me a good description on how you dissassmeble the inner joint. What tools did you use to do this job? Believe me, I tried almost everything, but I am getting fustrated. It's not that hard of a job, but what am I doing wrong? Arggg...sorry to vent.

Thanx buddy.

 

The inner joint is easy...

feel just inside the lip of the joint
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...s/MVC-005S.JPG

(in the grease and goo) and you'll feel a small metal retainer ring.. remove that guy with a small screwdriver. it'll pop right out..
now either wrap a rag around it while you pull it off or have a helper (or you, if you've got big hands).. hold the top end of the joint together when you seperate the shafts..
if you don't, those 6 bearings that are in the pic will fall out and go rolling across the floor. you loose those and you get to buy a new axle. can't simply buy those guys to replace.
for a pic of the parts I'm talking about, go here.
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...s/MVC-004S.JPG
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...s/MVC-003S.JPG

now to get the 6-point "star" thingy off the end of the shaft, that's going to be fun if you don't have the right tools. first you gotta remove the retainer clip from the end. use some small screwdrivers and pair of needlenose, or a tool made for this job. Snap-ring pliers is what they're called. can probably get some at a auto parts store or Mac tools for a few bucks. (more from MAc, but they'll last forever)

for the fun part......
I've got a pulley puller, which works absolutely wonderful in this case. it's got 3 arms that reach around the back of the "star" and hold on, while there's a screw down the middle.... you crank down on the screw and it pulls it right off the end of the shaft.

If you don't have one of those guys, you can use a rubber mallet and a piece of metal rod (or metal punch with a flat end).. or simply a wood hammer handle, or even a dig stick or dowel rod..
it just has to be strong enough to take a hammer blow, but not hard enough to damage the "star"...
just whck it a couple times, then move the punch/stich/whatever.. and whack it in a different place a few more times.. keep doing this until it's off.
now you can pull the boots off and do whatever you need to do.

 

WOW...Thanks for the pictures. That will help me a lot. I will try to work on the inner joint first then and see if I could get that off and then work my way to the outer boot then. This technique will work for both driver and passenger axle inner joints right? I noticed that your picture is the passenger side axle. So there's hardly a chance to remove the outer joint then. Do I just slip the outer boot through the shaft from the inner side and attach it? Thanks again Matt, I really appreciate your help on this.

 

You're correct on all counts..
the outer joint is NOT designed to be taken apart.. just take the inner boot apart, then slide booth inner and outer boots off.. clean the outer joint, then pack with fresh grease and install the new outer boot..

now slide the new inner boot on, and clean & install the inner joint. lube with grease, the fasten boot on.. reinstall in car and you're done.

yeah, both sides of the car work exactly the same, they're just a tad bit differently shaped.
have fun.