MaDMaX024

yes. you can drive the mommymax..hah
alright, enough OT, save that for IM.

erty67

iTrader: (104)

hey...the mommymax is a 4th gen. That's a pretty good deal!












....sorry pat, had to OT that one.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

does the resistor mod take place of the ks or is wired in with the ks?

if it take its place just do the resistor mod very close to the ecu and run a new wire from the resistor to the ground or wherever its supposed to go. this will totally bypass the bad wires if they are indeed bad. also, if/when you do that be sure to reset the ecu before you attempt starting it or anything just to be on the safe side.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I wonder what codes the VE ECU is flashing. Has he checked them when he was having this problem before? If the KS is fully dead or is not being recognized by the ECU, you will get a KS code.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Any particular reason you guys didn't replace the ks during the rebuild???

Julio

Like I said before, the ecu no longer flashes a knock code. As of now, I have a working knock sensor on the car. The present knock sensor is from my old Z, which operates at the same voltage as the VE does. I have tried the resistor mod at the ecu before. I cant explain why when i would shake my wiring harness near the firewall why my power would come back when I have tried everything. I have tried absolutely everything everyone has suggested thus far. believe me when I say everything, this problem is beyond annoying, not to mention is sucks to drive (especially with boost), and fuel mileage is horrible.

Not trying to get defensive guys, but enough of the telling me to put in the stock maf and cut the fuel pressure, cause this was happening way before i ever put in the 370's and the z maf.

maximase86, no prob man, any insite is def appreciated. I only get upset when people try telling me to do something I clearly already stated I have, or think that my current setup is the culprit, when I have CLEARLY stated isnt the problem.

At this point, I think my only option is to get a consult, or go to a dealership to solve the problem. I have tried finding someone with a consult/conzult, but noone in the tt.net forum or here seems to have one or is willing to help me out.

subs1000w

when i suggested lowering idle fuel pressure i ment to fix the rich condition your seeing at idle not to fix the slugishness problem

if all else fails id just replace the whole engine harness in cluding the kn and rear injector sub harnesses. i bet that causes alot more strange random problems than people think

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Sorry if we keep repeating ourselves. We are all very willing to help, especially since you are a rare VE turbo. We all want to see it running like it should. Good luck with it all. If I think of anything else, I will be sure to just throw my idea on the table and you can decide for yourself to dismiss it or not.

Spazz

tried your oxy sensor

4signs

iTrader: (2)

Hey nice job I haven’t been on the board for a while (going through a ruff divorce) but word travels quickly, congratulations. I would love to come check out/help out once I get my life back on track. My turbo system is constantly evolving, it would nice to share Ideas and help each other with tuning. I know how all the work its takes to fabricate you own kit and finish the project. I applaud you

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Hey 4signs, do you have any good pics of your setup? I found some that seem to be taken with a camera phone. lol What kind of turbo are you running? A/R specs, etc. Thanks.

*edit* Sorry, I was thinking of MaXtUneD with the crappy pics. You had some good pics. But I am curious what turbo you're using. Thanks.

Julio

Yea man, we should chat about stuff an such. I have a couple of ideas too, but who doesnt. We are pretty close. Maybe you could come and meet up one night (friday or saturday), cause we chill at wendies in warwick sometimes (lots of car peeps). Its right off of 95, so it isnt too bad.

Spazz, I have a new oxy sensor.

Ninty-two-se

Alot of RI maximas have Turbos... what the heck? My car came from Warwick.. where the heck is my turbo?

erty67

iTrader: (104)

I don't have turbo yet. must be a 3rd gen thing

we do have a supercharged 5th gen around here though!

jwmaxse

iTrader: (1)

So have you figured out the problem with your car yet Julio? I'm anxious to see how this turns out.

Julio

Well, I have been trying to fix this problem for over a year now, trying all sorts of different things from different ecu's, to a different knock sensor, to resistor mods at the harness, and at the ecu, with no success. So there doesnt seem to be an end in site, but I am gonna try it at the ecu again, and see how it goes. I would be so excited if the power did come back, cause not only would i get all that power back, but now i have a turbo and rebuilt vtc's. I can only imagine.

LoL. I got some major torque steer today though. I banged 2nd gear, and it started screaching tire bad, jerking from left to right. It was badass.

Julio

Just put a resistor back in. I put the 470k ohm resistor at the ecu, instead of the harness. I checked codes, and got code 55, but it still runs like crap even after i reset the ecu. I just disconnected the battery to see if that would make a difference for any reason. I will try it in the morning again, but i am not getting my hopes up. Only trying this because I have I read an article in Turbo where a turbo supra was putting down bad dyno numbers, so the dyno guy at the tunning shop pulled a couple EFI fuses for 10-15 minutes, and it made 30 more hp and 50 more ft lbs.

subs1000w

you really need to get a consult on that thing to see what the problem it

also id try to get the A/F ratio right to eliminate that as the cause

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

i know that my vg when running real rich on the low end wouldn't rev very well below 3500 or so... but since this happened before the swap its got to be something other than that. how's compression and all that fun stuff? timing, condition of plugs and wires and such, etc. etc.

subs1000w

if the fuels fine its gota be timing related

Julio

Its too big of a difference to be just one or the other. What else in the ecu programming pulls timing and dumps fuel below 3500 rpms, and just goes away?? Nothing I can think of.

Skyliner

damn ...bro u need to hook me up, as much as i like my 3rd gen, i`ll do anything for turbo, been waiting too long for that but finaly....Just let me know bro....give me the cost and the process i`ll be more then happy....just check one of my messengers or e-mail.......PLEASE..THANKS..AGAIN NICE RIDE

Julio

Just tried it again after having the battery disconnected all night. No difference, but madmax024 may be able to hook it up for me with a consult appointment at a nissan dealership around here. That would be damn nice to see.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Have no idea why it gets better at 3500 rpm. Maybe the engine just get going fast enough to mask it. Anyway, how is the coolant temp sensor? If it's fubar, it might tell the ecu to go into cold start mode(rich). Take it out and clean it. Also clean the connector. Worth a shot.

Julio

I have tried 2 different coolant temp sensors, both of which were cleaned, so were the terminals to the harness, and the resistance checked out ok.

Lol, I have tried almost everything to fix it, except the one thing that will.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

So a wiring harness is next on the list? From my 2 previous engine swaps, it shouldn't be that bad. Unhooking everything from the engine is fairly easy. ie.. 1.5 hours maybe. Most of the engine stuff is seperate from the other electricals (I think). If there is a big main plug behind the firewall, you might be able to do this in one day at most. But try to get a 5-sp harness and try to get one from the same year just in case.

goon9

iTrader: (13)

Someone has to get a kit put together. Turbos are beyond me right now, and I don't want to pay the ricer kid up the road 4grand.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

the only time i've ever had trouble with an engine in the lower rpm's and not on the upper was on an old L28 in a 280Z. the valve timing needed adjusted very badly. for some reason it would die below 3500-4000 rpm but above that the thing revved extremely well and sounded good.

Julio

I was just going to test all the sensors at the harness connector to the ecu with a multimeter, then again at the sensor if the original reading was off, but I havent had the time to do it up with an fsm.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

I just thought of another thing to try. Have you tried testing KS resistance at the ECU? It would mean you would have to find which pins are for the KS...FSM should have that? Blah, I get back from Alaska...and here I am racking my brain again!

S

Julio

Posted by Julio - 06-14-2004 at 09:31 PM
Just put a resistor back in. I put the 470k ohm resistor at the ecu, instead of the harness. I checked codes, and got code 55, but it still runs like crap even after i reset the ecu. I just disconnected the battery to see if that would make a difference for any reason. I will try it in the morning again, but i am not getting my hopes up. Only trying this because I have I read an article in Turbo where a turbo supra was putting down bad dyno numbers, so the dyno guy at the tunning shop pulled a couple EFI fuses for 10-15 minutes, and it made 30 more hp and 50 more ft lbs.