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Testing Spark Plug Wires

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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 01:39 PM
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Testing Spark Plug Wires

Hi, I replaced my spark plugs in hope to stop engine from missing. Is still does it. Next thing I would like to check are the wires. I heard somewhere that you can check them with a multi meter is this true? How much resistence should there be on the stock wires? Thanks.
Old Jul 8, 2004 | 04:09 PM
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just change them
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 03:18 AM
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I would like to find out if they are what is causing the miss before I get new ones.
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 05:49 AM
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just make sure the wires are all within 1 ohm of each other
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
just make sure the wires are all within 1 ohm of each other
All the wires on the front bank of cylinders all read around 13.5 ohms on the rear bank they read 7, 8.5 and 10 ohms. Would this be the reason for the missing? The boots on the rear bank of cylinders seem to be shorter could this be the cause of the lower resistance? Thanks.
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 08:57 AM
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yes. they will vary because of length. though I think that variaton is abit high I may be wrong though
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 09:09 AM
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With the car running, unplug one wire at a time:
1) If the car runs worse, wire is okay
2) Runs the same, that wire might be bad.

Add: Stumbling could be a faulty egr or pvc valve also. Cracked dist cap would do it also.
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 09:49 AM
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@Jeff92se...

Would you unplug the wires in sequence, and would you unplug the wires from the distributor or from the engine? My car had the Bosch 7mm spark plug wires installed when I purchased it, so I'd like to find out if I should be looking to replace them or not. I'm sure it's about time for another major tune-up (just passed 200K about a week ago!) and will be searching for the NGK V-Power plugs again, unless there's something better out there for a VG.

Thanks!

peace2u
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
With the car running, unplug one wire at a time:
1) If the car runs worse, wire is okay
2) Runs the same, that wire might be bad.
not quite jeff.
if the car runs worse the wires could still be bad. even wires with very high resistance will still transmit some voltage to the plug and possibly light it off.
if it runs the same then you've only begun to start checking, but at least you know a cylinder to start with
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 11:11 AM
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At least you could track it down to the cylinder. Especially if it's stumbling while idling or neutral reving.

I'd unhook them at the plug

Originally Posted by internetautomar
not quite jeff.
if the car runs worse the wires could still be bad. even wires with very high resistance will still transmit some voltage to the plug and possibly light it off.
if it runs the same then you've only begun to start checking, but at least you know a cylinder to start with
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
At least you could track it down to the cylinder. Especially if it's stumbling while idling or neutral reving.

I'd unhook them at the plug
true enough.
I just didn't want them to think they were completely eliminating a possible cause when they aren't
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 04:45 PM
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I found the cylinder that is not firing. Its #4 but the spark its making it through as it arcs when it gets close to the intake. So.. Iam thinking fuel injector or valve . What do you think?
Old Jul 10, 2004 | 05:12 AM
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check the injector 1st
Old Jul 10, 2004 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 90Maxximus
I found the cylinder that is not firing. Its #4 but the spark its making it through as it arcs when it gets close to the intake. So.. Iam thinking fuel injector or valve . What do you think?
Not necessarily so. Try swaping the spark plug from #4 to another cylinder and see if the problem follows to that cylinder. Could be an internally damage spark plug.

MIKE
Old Jul 10, 2004 | 05:52 AM
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Is there a way I can check the fuel injector without a NOID light or anything else like that. Thanks for the replys.
Old Jul 10, 2004 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 90Maxximus
Is there a way I can check the fuel injector without a NOID light or anything else like that. Thanks for the replys.
A noid light only test the signal going to the injector and not the injector then selves. But if you got the signal and the injector still no workie it's safe to assume it's the injector. Besides use a ohm meter on the injector you can try using a automotive stethoscope (or long extention) and listen to see if it's ticking.

MIKE
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