I have a leaking head gasket in my VE engine. It is the front head. The # 3 cylinder does not fire some time and i`m getting a white smoke from the exhuast. I`m pretty good with a wrench, I have air tools and a good stocked tool box. I was just wondering if anybody here has done this that could give me a few pointers to make the job go smoother. This is my daughters car, and I will be doing just one head.

 

i got the same problem but i dont know the car as you yet.

 

Anybody??????????????

 

um you might want to do a compresion test on that cylinder to make sure its the head gasket. because thats a big job

 

I've pulled the heads. It's the kinda job I wouldn't recommend unless you have a FSM. I have experience doing head jobs but this one I'm glad I had the FSM. I pulled my heads for other reason (VTC and exhaust studs) but it was a relatively easy to moderate job. I completely strip mine down to the short block while the motor was still in the eng compartment. Intake plenum and manifold, heads, timing covers and chain (all 3 chains) oil pump and pan were all removed. But I dont think you have to go that in depth just to remove one head.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/358672/5

MIKE

 

The only thing that bugs me is since I am pulling only one head,do I need to remove the timing chain completely, or can I remove it from just the head?

 

If you're not aware there's 3 chains on the VE. You definately dont need to remove all 3 chains, just the chain on that head. You can probably get away with loosening the chain tension on that head and slipping the chain thru the head after you remove the VTC and exhaust sprockets. White-out will become your new best friend in order to make sure everything lines back up.

MIKE

 

I sell the gaskets

 

The best way I've heard of to keep the chains and stuff in time is to actually zip-tie the timing chain to the sprockets. remove the sprockets from the cams, then the chain just sits right there. I've seen it done on the SR20s a lot when they're swapping cams and such.


otherwise, the job shouldn't be too bad. you're going to have to pull the whole upper and lower intake manifold, and at that point you might as well change the water pump and knock sensor while you're in there. also you're not far from replacing the rear head gasket too- it's only a couple more hours of work once you get there.

definitely check for head warpage on the one with the bad gasket- very likely.. if so, then it's best to pull both heads and have them milled so the compression will be the same on both sides- but that of course gets to more money..

 

Matt, Thats a excellent idea with the zip ties....Duh, why didnt I think of that??? A
As far as doing both heads....this car has 210,000 miles on it. it looks like some one has allready changed the gaskets before....I can see the aftermarket RTV sealer. I think the person didnt have the heads squared before reinstalling them. Compession test confirms a drop in pressure in the cylinder (80lbs) the others were from 130-145lbs with the engine hot. So I think the rear head gasket is OK. Also, it looks like some one changed the exhaust studs also.

 

New exhaust studs is a bonus- That will save you a 10-12 job. If you do end up pulling the heads, that's the time to check them and make sure, tho.

Sounds like you have the diagnosis, tho. That much difference between cylinders is pretty significant.