Next on the agenda of fixes...

After I had a friend replace my shocks/struts/springs, I've been hearing a grinding noise that's coming from the rear brakes. He initially told me that it's the dust shield and that its nothing to worry about because the noise was barely noticeable, but it has since gotten to the point that it's embarrasingly loud. The weird thing is that it only happens when I'm nearly coming to a complete stop (under 10mph).

I'm looking to install stainless steel brake lines soon, and would like to find out if a brake job is something I should try to tackle myself, or should I take it back to Midas who did my brakes in the first place? At the very least, is there a website or a book that explains how the brake system works and what to look for in case of a problem? I'm trying to learn as much as I can about my car as problems arise so I can be more knowledgeable about what's really going on.

As always, your assistance is appreciated!!!

peace2u

 

You say you had a friend replace the struts and springs on your car? Check the dust shields. Just like your friend said. When replacing the struts, he may have bent that dust shield so it's touching the rotor. Check that and feel free to bend it slightly out of the way of the rotor. Just bend it a little. It should be very close to the rotor, but not touching it.

If it's not touching the rotor, then check to see if your brake pads are still there. Sometimes they can break off and that grinding noise would be metal to metal contact.

Also, I've had a grinding noise in my front caliper once. Sounded REALLY bad. I take the caliper off, inspect everything and found nothing. I put it all back together and I fixed it. Wierd! I am guessing a little rock got lodged in the caliper some how and it fell out when I removed everything.

 

I agree with Aaron about the stone or the slightly bent dust shield. Also, check how much lining is left on the brake pad, might just be time to replace them.

 

might be uneven worn pads..or the shield around the brakes.

 

I just fixed the grinding noise coming from the rear brakes. The pad that gets pushed by the piston had worn down to the metal. Swapping the pads and rotors from the parts car solved that problem.

 

i have the same grinding noice, cept that it comes from my front brakes! i've had the guys that installed them fix it, then it came back again after a bit of driving...

i think i'm gonna take a look at it myself when i have time...

 

Midas. 'Nuff said. I'm having the same problem when slowing and just starting from a stop. My fronts squeel, and my rears grind. I hope they last another two weeks!

 

you all just need to go to autozone and spen 40$ on new lifetime breakpads. although for some of you its to late for that because now your gona need rotors also so another 25$ per rotor

 

I've put it off for so long because i need new lines too. I was going to do the lines, then the pad's, but this whole wedding thing is killing me! That's why I hope it holds for another 2 weeks. Then I should be able to do everything.

 

Thanks for the advice, guys! I'll get out there today and check the dust shields... he mentioned that that was the problem, and I looked at the rotors and they don't appear to be damaged by any lack of brake pads (I've experienced that problem once before too). Will report back to let y'all know if that was the problem or not...

peace2u

 

Midas looks like it's the answer...

I had the brakes done there before, so since I got the lifetime brake pad warranty, I'll take it there. The noise looks like its coming from the passenger side rear rotor... Looks and sounds like the pad needs replacing since the rear drivers side pads have more meat on them.

Thanks for all of your help, guys!

peace2u

 

sounds like a caliper sticking so midas will nail you for that. nad all of the labor.
The Pads are the only free part and they sure as he!! ain't free by the time they're done

 

if you take it there they find whats stated above prepare for a 400$ woopin MIDAS style

 

@subs100w & internetautomar...

I already feel it coming. I think you're right internetautomar - the calipers may be sticking because the pads are touching the rotor, although not as bad on the drivers side as the passenger side. I wonder what causes uneven wear like that? I just wish I knew enough about the brakes to feel confident to do it myself, though. $400 would kick my tail right about now...

peace2u

 

If you know how to do a brake job, then you can remove the pads and then make sure the caliper is sliding easily back and forth on those 2 rods. It's probably sticking. So add some grease to those parts like the FSM shows. Make sure the caliper is sliding very smoothly. If it sticks, then it will cause the car to pull to one side while braking and causing terrible uneven wear on the pads.

 

@Aaron92SE...

Thanks for the advice, but I've never done a brake job before. Would love to learn, though... Would I have to bleed the brakes in order to check the travel on the caliper? I'd also need a c-clamp in order to put the caliper back together, wouldn't I? I have the Chilton's manual, but I didn't see where it discusses doing your own brake job, so if it's in there, I missed it. I'd like to learn to do this myself because I want to get the stainless steel brake lines next week, and I really don't feel like hearing what replacing the brake lines is going to cost me...

peace2u

 

If you remove your calipers, you do not need to remove the brake lines. So, you won't have to deal with any fluids if you're just going to replace the pads and check the caliper.

It explains it in your Chilton's manual. Look again.

For the rear calipers, you'll need some needle nose pliers and NOT a C clamp to retract the caliper piston. In your Chilton's, it will show some hand using the "appropriate tool"... needle nose pliers. haha You put the pliers in those slots on the caliper and turn it one way to retract it and turn it the other way to bring it out. The first time you do this, it will not be easy. But you have to push the pliers and turn the piston to get it to move in. It sometimes can be hard.

For the fronts, you just get your C-clamp and situate it in a fashion where the screw part of the clamp is inside the piston. OR, if you are replacing the pads, just use the old pad to brace the C-clamp in position.

If you've never done a brake job before, I don't think I would recommend you jumping in this. I mean, it's EASY for me. But if you've never done it before, you will have a BILLION questions during the project and might mess something up. I would recommend having one of your mechanic friends somewhat supervise you while you do this job. That is how I learned most of my basic beginners auto mechanics projects.