Got my Max back from the shop (power steering pump replaced) then noticed a loss of power & resistance when pressing the gas pedal it was as if all gas stopped flowing to the engine-then it started working again.
Didn't happen for a day and then it got so bad I couldn't drive it. I changed the fuel filter and air filter and that seemed to work until 1/2 hr later. I looked under the hood & noticed a hose from the head was disconnected-found it had come loose from some kinda double nipple thingy on the fire wall-replaced it & it worked for an hour.
Now it is doing it again but only every once and a while. I'm not sure if the mechanic knocked something else loose or if maybe my fuel pump is going out or what. Is there a fuel pump reset switch? Any ideas would be welcome.

 

my gas pedal is also starting to get some resistance..did u try adjusting ur throttle cable?

 

no, it feels more like the fuel is getting resistance. the pedal feels normal but there is no acceleration when i push the pedal and if I push harder it kinda just stalls...

 

I changed the rotor and the idle went south so I changed the distributor cap then the plugs (found one that was only half seated because of carbon build up cleaned it out & replaced it properly) found corrosion on all the connections for the fuel injectors-covered with bulb grease and replaced wires on the back three only- I couldn't remove the injectors from the front at all.
I used a bottle of injector cleaner and a bottle of gas treatment.

When I was moving stuff around I hit the air flow meter connection & it affected the idle in a good way so I cleaned the corrosion off & added bulb grease. I checked the error codes & one of them was the Exhaust sensor - the other said something about another model 1989 or something. Anyway the codes were 3 green & 3 red and the other was 3 green & 4 red. When I was moving the selector switch on the ECU the idle changed. Is that normal? I am still getting the original problem-hesitation - as well as hard idle & slight lack of power in lower gears.

Please help my Maxima is using up all my money and my patience I forgot what free time is!

 

if your getting code 34 your detonation sensor could be bad or the plug it really corroded

 

AKA knock sensor

 

What is a knock sensor & is it expensive? What about the Exhaust/Gas Sensor? Is that the same thing as an Oxegyn Sensor?
Is the detonation sensor expaensive/difficult to r & r?

 

easy job to replace, on a VG, which you appear to have
it's on the side of the block

 

Thanks!
I just got a call from the mechanic, he said one of the plugs wasn't seated (idle problem) properly & I have a leak in the exhaust manifold (lack of power).
So we'll see if it does the hesitation thing again.

 

I just had a similiar problem
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=324903

I fixed the hesitation/stalling on my '94 gxe. Even though we have similiar symptons, the cause can be anything but. I suggest checking other electrical connections that relates to Ignition and Timing or MAF. I highly doubt that a leak in the manifold will give you noticable lost of power. The knock sensor can be working but the wire might be loose. Check it before you replace the sensor.

Good luck dude.

 

I appreciate the reply. I got my Max back last night and it ran great until I parked it and when I started it the problem was back again. The mechanic thought it was just a sparkpug problem-it wasn't.

Is the knock sensor anywhere near the power steering pump? This problem was non-existant prior to the mechanic installing one.


I couldn't get the Max above 25 MPH for the 1st 8 min of my drive this morning then BAM like a bat out of hell it ran sweet the rest of the way. ..

 

My 89 maxima started to hesitate and not be able to idle unless I kept it up to 1200 rpms. When statring off the car would stall and I noticed black smoke coming out of the exhaust. I thought it might be the injectors so, I put in some Lucas fuel injection cleaner with a tankful of gas. It worked fine till half a tank of gas then the problem aorse again. I changed the fuel filter, that helped for a while. I filled the old filter up with water and blew through it to see if there was any restriction or foriegn matter in it. Well, not much but some fine powdery grey dust came out??? Next I changed the plugs, rotor, and distributor cap, and again it ran well for a while, in went another bottle of fuel injection cleaner, it ran good for about another quarter tank of gas than it hesitated again. At this point I was very irate and opened the gas cap to throw in another bottle of fuel injection cleaner, but when I removed the cap, gas came gushing out, like there was alot of pressure in the gas tank that it was forcing the gas out. I know there should be some pressure but not that much. A new gas cap was purchased, that didnt help, still built up pressure and the hesitation was still noticeable. Frustrated I made an appointment with the Nissan dealer to run a diagnostic test for the following week. Till that time I left the gas cap slightly loose so as not to build up too much pressure in the tank. Dealer said nothing was wrong, just that it was taking in too much air because of the aftermarket air cleaner. Well a mechanic was walking by and overheard my conversation with the service tech and said the problem could be my Evac Canister, it's a filter located at the back of the car that contains charcoal (remember the gas filter). That could be my problem, I never found out, believe it or not the car has been running smooth since then. Have talked to other mechanics and they agree that could of been my problem and it cleared itself. Hope my escapade will give you another avenue, and my Maxima cotinues to run smooth, if not will look into the Evac Canister route ($150.00). Hmmm maybe all that fuel injection cleaners helped. LOL

 

Thanks for the reply. I am wondering if the regular gas I have been using could be the culprit. There are so many possible causes.

When the Nissan dealership does a diagnostic do they simply read the ECU error codes?

If the error code is 34 - detonation sensor - could it be that the sensor is functioning and there is a cause for the knocking that a few gas treatments won't fix?

I am hesistant (no pun intened) to change out the sensor until I find out how to test the sensor. I don't know how or where the heck it is.

Any feedback definately welcome.

 

Try your o2 sensor. I had a hesistation/stalling problem and I changed the o2 sensor and the car has been running fine since.

 

yes but he has a trouble code telling him the knock sensor is bad.
but he doesn't want to spend the money to fix it

 

No actually I wouldn't mind spending the money to fix it. I want to make sure that is the problem before I spend another $150 and still have the same problem. I found one for $100 bucks but I might be able to find a used one?
If the sensor is the only thing thats bad I will drop $175 in a heartbeat!

How do I know it's just a sensor needing replacing? i.e. if the O2 & knock sensors are performing their function (by telling me there is a problem with the engine) then changing them out wouldn't clear the problem up.

I just want to make sure it's the sensors that need replacing and not something more serious. I am averaging $200-$300 every two months or so repairing this car and I am going broke!

 

The o2 is a regular maintenance item. so if you haven't replaced it I would,

 

Are there two? Should I replace the o2 BEFORE the knock Sensor?
What is a good manual for locating these sensors? I've got a Haynes & can't find it in the book. I have been told the knock sensor is on the side of the engine by the oil filter & the o2(s) are at the exhaust manifold near the Y in the front and then there is one in the rear.
Should I try resetting the ECU?

 

only 1,
it's right in front of the catalytiv converter, on the front pipe.
I'd replace it before the knock sensor. because it is possible, not likely though, that the o2 is causing the motor to run lean and thereby knocking

 

Thanks! I will have to wait until after Monday (payday) and will post my progress.

5{tautomar]only 1,
it's right in front of the catalytiv converter, on the front pipe.
I'd replace it before the knock sensor. because it is possible, not likely though, that the o2 is causing the motor to run lean and thereby knocking[/QUOTE]

 

I was going to reset my ECU & then decide if I should change any sensors. Thursday I noticed that may Max didn't give me any trouble! I looked at the gas gauge & noticed I was on empty. That was the first premium tank I bought in 2 years and that must have helped.
It's been four days and I think the problem went away. The only thing I did was run premium gas ( 1 full tank) and some gas treatment & fuel injector cleaner - after the full tuneup w/ fuel & gas filter didn't fix the problem.
I think I will alternate mid grade to super & see if that keeps the problem from returning.

 

I have a 98 maxima it was running fine now when I press on the gas it starts to jump! But if I let off and push the gas again it will stop! If I down shift it jumps also! But it doesn't jump all the time! Any ideas

 

er... :

 

I reiterate the above in unison.

 

TPS or MAF....... disconnect your maf sensor.........and see if it runs smoother, check those injectors as well