hey guys, I've been reading a lot of hesitation/stalling/lose of power posts lately and recently, I've been a victim of it myself.

Here's what she's been doing when she's all warmed up: (she's a 94 max gxe)
Hesitation: Only below 2,000 rpm, usually between 800-1500 rpm. Very noticable under heavy load. During heavy load, the car can jerk as if she's trying to go but can't. If I floor it, problem goes away. When the car is not under heavy load, hesitation is not so noticable. From a stop, gasing lightly, the car is very very weak, minor hesitation, engine growls loudly, until it reaches 2,000 rpm, then it's nice smooth power from there on. Again, if I floor it from a stop, it's fine.

Stalling: It happens when I'm not gasing. Most of the time it happens at a light or I'm making a slow U turn. Also sometimes when I'm crusing at a low speed (20mph) and the rpm is around 1,100 or so. She stalls with no hesitation/jerks. (As if someone just turned off the car with the keys). She starts back up fine everytime.

That's pretty much the break down of my problem. I hope it helps. I haven't changed out any parts yet. I just want to hear from those who experienced this and actually fixed it or has been trying to. I know A LOT of things can cause these symptoms. I just want to narrow them down before I start replacing unnecessary parts.

Please don't guess. Only experiences please. Maybe this can be a sticky someday.

Thanks guys.

 

94 vg..one cam,check the wires and plugs 1st..post a history of ur last mod/maintenance..auto or stick..look around the maf sensor(see if the tube is loose or the maf conn. is clamped correctly.by heavy load u mean alot of people in the car?get a good multimeter and start tapping into sensors.ever change ur car/o2 sensor?a clogged cat can be a burden cause the only way to check it is to remove it.make sure that all the connections and tight(battery,plugs,distributor,cap)get a manual and search for codes from the ecu.good luck and repost w/ the outcome

 

i say check the same as above and 1st if it hasnt already been done do a tune up, plugs wires cap rotor then move onto MAF, injectors, O2, coil, cat, TPS and so on

 

Hi,

the gxe only got the auto as a option,

the se got the option of auto and manual,

maxmonkey,

can you please tell us how many miles is on the car,

can you please tell us if anything has been change before,

 

i think it's the injectors.. but i ain't an expert on this, so don't take my comment too seriously..

 

Pretty much everything listed can cause the problem. One thing you could do easily is to pull off the wire harness on the MAF, and bend the female connectors inward so they clamp tighter. That's all I needed to stop my stalling problems. Good Luck!

 

maximagxe90 - to fill you guys on my car's info. It has 170K miles, with CAI, Ypipe, 2k Max exhaust, and it's riding on Eibach/KYB with stock rims.

Maintenance record:
Spark Plugs changed at 110,500 miles
New Bosch Ignition wires 117,800
New Fuel Filter 120,000
New distributor 140,000
New Knock Sensor 147,000
New AC Pressue Sensor 158,000
New belts (all) 165,000

Note: The max just passed the NY Emission Inspection (at 165k miles) with flying colors, showing very low emissions in the 3 gas categories. It's not likely that the problem was from the emission system.

Here's what I did to fix my problem. I disconnected the 7 plugs to the distributor and replugged them tightly. I noticed a very loose ground (?) connection right between the ignition coil and the distributor. I made sure that was secured tightly. And replugged a few connectors around the area on top of the belts. I'm guessing some connectors got lose from the work done on changing the belts

Both the problem of hestitation/lost of power and stalling has immediately gone away. I've put around 100 miles on the car since the fix (knock on wood). The car is running exactly how it should be (as far as I know). Learning from this experience, I suggest you should check all electrical connections before replacing anything like what Brad92SE suggested.

I hope this helps. Thanks for the reply guys. Appreciate it. I'll update if this problem or anything similiar surfaces again.


- maxmonkey

 

I had the same exact problem. I tried o2 sensor ,new plugs, plug wires, checked the injectors, new gas filter everything. Finally I took it to a nissan dealership let them run a diagnostics test. They called it an egr valve and some bad relay it had to do with the air and the gas mixture that goes to the motor or something like that. It costed me 150 dollars for parts and labor. So if I was you thats what I would do take it to a nissan dealor and let them run a dyno on it. It will save you time and money.

Good Luck