A little while back someone was talking about how they had tweaked there auto tranny, and got good results. I was wondering who it was and how they did it?

 

On the pass. side strut tower, just next to your vaccum canister, there's a wire harness that has two wires. It leads to a 3" x .5" or so silver box that says JECS on it below your stock air box. Disconnect the harness. What you've done is disabled the transmission drop-down resistor. Now, when you shift, you'll have 100% line pressure and you'll see how fast the tranny will shift. However, do not leave it like that for an extended period of time.

 

i got a valve body recalibration. what it does, is it pushes the fluids in the tranny faster creating a faster shift. this mod is "supposidly" suppose to make the tranny last longer. however a tranny oil cooler is highly recomended.

 

Yup.. that was me.. since the temp dropped WAY low today (low 50s this morning), I unplugged it again and I could routinely chirp 2nd gear shifts and downshifts into 1st at 15+mph.

The drawback to this.. high speed driving will NOT work well. at above 95mph, the tranny line pressure builds up so much that the car will shift itself out of OD and back into 3rd. it will shift back and forth between 3rd and 4th gears from anywhere between 95 and 110. if you turn OD off and levae it in 3rd, the clutch band will start slipping above 105mph and the rpm will skyrocket and you won't go any faster- thus burning your clutch band to bits in no time at all.

Sooo, what I'm gonna do is install a switch so I can disconnect the thing from the dash when I want to.

 

How much would it cost for a tranny cooler and valve body recalibration? Where can you get performance patrs for an automatic Max transmission?







92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.

 

i heard that don in texas and some third genner(cant remember who) were working on a vb mod for third gens. i dont think its done yet though. ask around about it.

and matt> let me know about that dash switch thing. i wanna try to do that also. so basically i could wire in a switch for when i want to race or whatever and then plug it back in for normal driving. right?

 

don in texas is the person that recalibrated my vb. he goes for around 450. the tranny oil cooler u gotta buy on your own. it's available at your local auto supply store. i got the hayden 405 tranny oil cooler for rv's it's over sized. i dont' knwo anyone running one as big as mine. the largest i heard a person go was 404. ppl usually use much smaller. just look at my sig. don's emmail is dgcoop@swbell.net

 

tranny cooler....try http://www.carparts.com ...thats where i got mine and matt93gxe and many others...range from 40 - 60 bucks

vb mod...currently available through http://www.levelten.com (not sure on price)...yes don is working on a 3rd gener (maximamike?) so its not available to us yet..he charges $450...

 

*Raises hand* Guilty as charged

 

I try it out. The trany feels better, but I cant chirp em in 2nd. Probably the fact that I am Living at 6000ft. If you come up with a switch for it, let me know.

 

i tried this and i must say i like the way it feels, but is it going to do any damage? Like, motor mounts and stuff are under more stress arnt they? Im probably going to get a switch for it, or maybe wire up a relay so when i turn it to 'Power' on the a/t swith it turns off the resistor

 

How about a variable resistor control from the dash? I'd like to do that Matt. We just need to see if we can find the correct ohmage and wattage variable resistor. May not be possible though, in which case the switch is the best.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bryan91SE
[I]How about a variable resistor control from the dash? I'd like to do that Matt. We just need to see if we can find the correct ohmage and wattage variable resistor. May not be possible though, in which case the switch is the best.

But it won't be a reality. The dropping resistor is nearly 15W. But that's at its rating of 12 ohms (nominal). Now, if you reduce the resistance in the potentiometer, you will actually be increasing the amount of power flowing through the pot as such (V^2 / R). In essence, if we reduce the resistance to half that, we've doubled the wattage, effectively making it nearly 30W now!

Thus, the potentiometer required will be quite chunky indeed in size - if anything, it will be ridiculously large.

So no, that's not a good idea. I can see that you want to control the pressure linearly, but this is not a feasible idea. Don't mean to shoot you down, but it's best to stick to the idea of just a switch to give yourself 100% pressure, or none at all.

Personally, I say just get the valve body modified instead (be it by Level 10, like I did, or Don in Texas).