I have a kenwood reciever/tape deck & a kenwood graphic eq/cd player, jl audio all the way around the doors, and a 12' mtx 6000 thunder with a 560 watt poweracoustik amp. Everytime i roll the windows up and down (hitting all 4 buttons at the same time) the sound either distorts or goes completely out , then returns when i let go. The music does not stop (such as cd) i know becuase my eq still shows it. And if i am using alot of bass and its night and my lights are on, when i hit my break petal the sound does the same thing. I go cruising the strip and i hate stopping because my sound gets horrible. Can anyone tell me where to start to fix this problem? I'm sure its electrical but i dont know where to start. Dealerships charge an arm and a leg to find the source.http://www.geocities.com/maximumdrop

 

please help someone!!

 

The source is partially the shotty charging system on the Max. You rattled off all this stereo stuff, never did you mention any optima battery, 1f cap, nothing. You need to start by beefing up your power supply and checking your fuses. Check the fuses under the dash because since you've changed the deck, I bet you've not replaced the low amp fuse that was originally for the nonamplified bose headunit? This is a good start, and instalation of the battery and cap are not difficult but will run you about $100 for the cap and about $150 for the battery, maybe more.

 

any more ideas would be appreciated. Last night i turned on my rear defrost with my headlights on and it cut my sound out all together. We laughed at it. Could be i need two diff bateries one for the amp and one for the car. Some also told me my alternator could be going bad. It has been doing this for a while so i doubt that but who knows. Someone has to know the answer to this.

 

I've also got some pretty significant amps in my car, and I experience a similar problem. If I roll the windows up at idle the RPM drop by a few hundred. What's the deal?

 

This is really simple. There is no way to get around beefing up your power supply short of spending even more money on a beefeir alt. or just setting your idle higher, which is really just avioding your real problem, that in having a system, I don't care who you are, you need something to back it up beyond the factory vehicle components which are not designed to perform at the level that you seem to be insisting it to. One other option is getting an Accuvolt from Jacob's, but I'd hate to see the price tag on that puppy! If your alternator's gone, it's simply a symptom, not the cause.

 

last night i was coming home (yes my system was crankin) and my headlights were dimming with the bass and my gauges and everything was dimming, i also noticed only my driver window down button dimmed it also (not any others). I have seen this before in many of my rides(other than the buttons dimming it). But in my max i have never had this problem, now someone told me a new alternator is 150.00 - 300.00 but i doubt that. I am going to have the alternator tested and battery. i just want to make sure i am not going to have a bigger problem on my hands.

 

Even if your alternator is new, it will only put out about 60 amps tops, usually at 5k rpm, not idle (on the max I think it's actually closer to 50-55 amps). Driving at night with lights and everything else on will drain a lot from the alternator, not to mention the power to run the engine. Then, most Stereo amplifiers drain at least 30 amps power and those are the smaller ones, the larger ones for subs pull 60 amps, if you have both amps, that's 90 amps being drained from the charging system that is only producing (let's say) 60 amps of power. You do the math! WAKE UP! < slap, slap > Get an extra battery and a cap before you ruin something if you haven't already. A NEW ALTERNATOR IS NOT GOING TO HELP YOU!!