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Exhaust Manifold Replacment

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Old 08-24-2004 | 04:44 AM
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rimmer1's Avatar
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Exhaust Manifold Replacment

Hi,
I have a cracked exhaust manifold can anybody tell how long this will take to do $$ ? Is it worth it to it bring to the shop ? How much does a manifold cost (new? used ?) Or do I just put on headers ?
thanks so much for your help
Old 08-24-2004 | 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by rimmer1
Hi,
I have a cracked exhaust manifold can anybody tell how long this will take to do $$ ? Is it worth it to it bring to the shop ? How much does a manifold cost (new? used ?) Or do I just put on headers ?
thanks so much for your help
You can get a used exhaust manifold for about $40-50 dollars
Old 08-24-2004 | 09:42 AM
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which manifold?
Old 08-24-2004 | 10:26 AM
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The back one facing the fire wall is the one that is leaking. Has anybody had this changed before? looking for a dollar figure ? is it absolutly neccassrey to get it done right away?
thanks again
Old 08-24-2004 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by rimmer1
The back one facing the fire wall is the one that is leaking. Has anybody had this changed before? looking for a dollar figure ? is it absolutly neccassrey to get it done right away?
thanks again


The front manifold was that much
Old 08-24-2004 | 12:52 PM
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-sure it isnt a broken stud
-its not a life and death problem
-if you find a junk yard, probably get it there cheap
Old 08-24-2004 | 12:52 PM
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if you're interested i might have an used manifold for sale.
Old 08-25-2004 | 09:46 AM
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Make sure that whatever you get is not already warped. Then you will still run into problems. I had to replace front and back... Courtesy was like $600 a piece... shop around... but at least you know what you are getting with new parts... also be sure to get new studs!
Old 08-25-2004 | 12:18 PM
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Thanks,
Would headers be the better and cheapier way ?
has anybody done this job ? and how labour intensive is it ?
Old 08-25-2004 | 02:55 PM
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It's definitely labor intensive, but not impossible. Budget a full day for it at least, if you've never done it before.
Old 08-25-2004 | 10:55 PM
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Well i have same problem right now as well, i know its a pain in the but to fix, and plus my car has 245k on it, soo just do what i did, go buy a VG30ET to replace it with.
Old 08-26-2004 | 06:40 PM
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Does the sound of air escaping coming from the rear
when I step on the gas mean I have a cracked manifold?
Will headers make a difference, what are they anyway?
Old 08-26-2004 | 07:00 PM
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headers are your exhaust manifold. you can tell that your exhaust manifold (headers) are cracked by opening up the hood and rev it and you ll be able to hear the exhaust louder than usual right by the engine.
Old 08-29-2004 | 09:54 AM
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hisssss sound?

No exhaust sound from engine bay, but sound of air escaping from what sounds like
the rear of the car. Help!
Old 08-30-2004 | 04:45 PM
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Listen I though I had a cracked manifold, and it ended up being a blown gasket from the firewall side, I went to a meineke and they charged me $110.00 to replace the gasket which the part was almost $35.00 So its worth checking out what the problem is first. Because I know stuff about my car and the mechanic tried telling me the whole thing needs to be replaced but i told him to replace the gaskets and it runs real nice right now. You can tell if the whole area between the manifold and the engine is black. Also the diffrence between headers and a manifold is imports have manifolds most sport domestic cars have headers
Old 08-30-2004 | 05:40 PM
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I have the same problem that dmax1 has. air sounds like its leaking from the back of the car. like around teh spare tire area?
Old 08-31-2004 | 04:07 AM
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just had it checked out, and it seems that I have a broken exhaust stud. Is the manifold craked or bent out of shape who knows untill you take it off. But I was quoted $800-$1000cdn to fix. Lot of money for something that just sounds bad, ah back pressure......hmmm
Old 08-31-2004 | 05:41 AM
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It's quite possible that the manifold ios warped, but you should be able to get it machined flat.

The studs are cheap, but a complete pain in the *** to fix. For the rear manifold, you have to either drop the engine/tranny or pull the cylinder head with the manifold attached. I'm probably going to pull mine over thanksgiving break.

The front studs would be easier, you would just have to move the AC compressor and take out the grill and radiator.

Basically you would need to take off all the nuts and then take out the studs that have broken off in the head with an EZout. If you decided to get it done, make sure they replace ALL the exhaust studs with higher quality VG30ET studs so you dont have to worry about them breaking.
Old 08-31-2004 | 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 4dscPat
It's quite possible that the manifold ios warped, but you should be able to get it machined flat.

The studs are cheap, but a complete pain in the *** to fix. For the rear manifold, you have to either drop the engine/tranny or pull the cylinder head with the manifold attached. I'm probably going to pull mine over thanksgiving break.

The front studs would be easier, you would just have to move the AC compressor and take out the grill and radiator.

Basically you would need to take off all the nuts and then take out the studs that have broken off in the head with an EZout. If you decided to get it done, make sure they replace ALL the exhaust studs with higher quality VG30ET studs so you dont have to worry about them breaking.
some incorrect info to point out...
- you don't have to drop the motor or remove the rear head for the rear studs. you can do it on the car.

- remove AC compressor...removing the radiator give u a little more room..removing the grill does nothing. remember you have an AC condensor between them

- EZ out may not be the best method since well...they tend to snap and break if you torque them down hard. the "upgraded" studs are from VG30DETT..but Nissan has superceded the maxima part number w/ the higher quality studs...even if you ask for the maxima studs you will get the better ones.
Old 08-31-2004 | 09:20 AM
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Yeah, please don't remove the heads- totally not necessary. I just did mine a couple months ago, and you can get to everything you need from underneath if you remove the crossmember and a couple brackets.
Old 08-31-2004 | 10:57 AM
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You said
"I just did mine a couple months ago, and you can get to everything you need from underneath if you remove the crossmember and a couple brackets."

well did you need special tools to remove the crossmember and the bracketts, is this procedure written down anywhere, because I have the same problem......
Old 08-31-2004 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by red00maima
You said
"I just did mine a couple months ago, and you can get to everything you need from underneath if you remove the crossmember and a couple brackets."

well did you need special tools to remove the crossmember and the bracketts, is this procedure written down anywhere, because I have the same problem......
the crossmember is just bolted down.

getting a right angle drill helps a lot.

if you have to ask how to replace the studs then i recommend seeking professional help. i don't want a motor to fall on your head or something.
Old 08-31-2004 | 03:15 PM
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"if you have to ask how to replace the studs then i recommend seeking professional help. i don't want a motor to fall on your head or something."
funny guy,,, I can do the job, I just am too lazy to look at it. I figured if someone else did a step by step on removing the parts (the crossmember and a couple brackets that are in the way before starting the job) then I wouldn't have to figure it out myself.
why should I waste my brain cells trying to do something someone else has already spent time figuring out .

that way more time for beer.........
Old 09-01-2004 | 06:37 AM
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Search on 4dsc.com, there is a write-up on it there, I believe. Don't think there is a sticky here anywhere, but probably should be.

Anyway, you probably aren't going to find a bolt-by-bolt procedure. Get the basics from 4dsc.com, and then ask specific questions if you get stuck. It's pretty straight forward once you get under there and look. Things that have to come off, as I remember are AC compressor (just move it out of the way), lower crossmember, both the engine mounts that are attached, both the brackets that they bolt to on the block. Obviously, you'll be removing the y-pipe, and the EGR pipe that goes to the front manifold.

Again, just the basics, from what I remember. Unfortunately, you're probably going to have to "waste some brain cells" looking at it closer in case I have forgotten something.
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