Exhaust Manifold Replacment
#1
Exhaust Manifold Replacment
Hi,
I have a cracked exhaust manifold can anybody tell how long this will take to do $$ ? Is it worth it to it bring to the shop ? How much does a manifold cost (new? used ?) Or do I just put on headers ?
thanks so much for your help
I have a cracked exhaust manifold can anybody tell how long this will take to do $$ ? Is it worth it to it bring to the shop ? How much does a manifold cost (new? used ?) Or do I just put on headers ?
thanks so much for your help
#2
Originally Posted by rimmer1
Hi,
I have a cracked exhaust manifold can anybody tell how long this will take to do $$ ? Is it worth it to it bring to the shop ? How much does a manifold cost (new? used ?) Or do I just put on headers ?
thanks so much for your help
I have a cracked exhaust manifold can anybody tell how long this will take to do $$ ? Is it worth it to it bring to the shop ? How much does a manifold cost (new? used ?) Or do I just put on headers ?
thanks so much for your help
#5
Originally Posted by rimmer1
The back one facing the fire wall is the one that is leaking. Has anybody had this changed before? looking for a dollar figure ? is it absolutly neccassrey to get it done right away?
thanks again
thanks again
The front manifold was that much
#8
Make sure that whatever you get is not already warped. Then you will still run into problems. I had to replace front and back... Courtesy was like $600 a piece... shop around... but at least you know what you are getting with new parts... also be sure to get new studs!
#13
headers are your exhaust manifold. you can tell that your exhaust manifold (headers) are cracked by opening up the hood and rev it and you ll be able to hear the exhaust louder than usual right by the engine.
#15
Listen I though I had a cracked manifold, and it ended up being a blown gasket from the firewall side, I went to a meineke and they charged me $110.00 to replace the gasket which the part was almost $35.00 So its worth checking out what the problem is first. Because I know stuff about my car and the mechanic tried telling me the whole thing needs to be replaced but i told him to replace the gaskets and it runs real nice right now. You can tell if the whole area between the manifold and the engine is black. Also the diffrence between headers and a manifold is imports have manifolds most sport domestic cars have headers
#17
just had it checked out, and it seems that I have a broken exhaust stud. Is the manifold craked or bent out of shape who knows untill you take it off. But I was quoted $800-$1000cdn to fix. Lot of money for something that just sounds bad, ah back pressure......hmmm
#18
It's quite possible that the manifold ios warped, but you should be able to get it machined flat.
The studs are cheap, but a complete pain in the *** to fix. For the rear manifold, you have to either drop the engine/tranny or pull the cylinder head with the manifold attached. I'm probably going to pull mine over thanksgiving break.
The front studs would be easier, you would just have to move the AC compressor and take out the grill and radiator.
Basically you would need to take off all the nuts and then take out the studs that have broken off in the head with an EZout. If you decided to get it done, make sure they replace ALL the exhaust studs with higher quality VG30ET studs so you dont have to worry about them breaking.
The studs are cheap, but a complete pain in the *** to fix. For the rear manifold, you have to either drop the engine/tranny or pull the cylinder head with the manifold attached. I'm probably going to pull mine over thanksgiving break.
The front studs would be easier, you would just have to move the AC compressor and take out the grill and radiator.
Basically you would need to take off all the nuts and then take out the studs that have broken off in the head with an EZout. If you decided to get it done, make sure they replace ALL the exhaust studs with higher quality VG30ET studs so you dont have to worry about them breaking.
#19
Originally Posted by 4dscPat
It's quite possible that the manifold ios warped, but you should be able to get it machined flat.
The studs are cheap, but a complete pain in the *** to fix. For the rear manifold, you have to either drop the engine/tranny or pull the cylinder head with the manifold attached. I'm probably going to pull mine over thanksgiving break.
The front studs would be easier, you would just have to move the AC compressor and take out the grill and radiator.
Basically you would need to take off all the nuts and then take out the studs that have broken off in the head with an EZout. If you decided to get it done, make sure they replace ALL the exhaust studs with higher quality VG30ET studs so you dont have to worry about them breaking.
The studs are cheap, but a complete pain in the *** to fix. For the rear manifold, you have to either drop the engine/tranny or pull the cylinder head with the manifold attached. I'm probably going to pull mine over thanksgiving break.
The front studs would be easier, you would just have to move the AC compressor and take out the grill and radiator.
Basically you would need to take off all the nuts and then take out the studs that have broken off in the head with an EZout. If you decided to get it done, make sure they replace ALL the exhaust studs with higher quality VG30ET studs so you dont have to worry about them breaking.
- you don't have to drop the motor or remove the rear head for the rear studs. you can do it on the car.
- remove AC compressor...removing the radiator give u a little more room..removing the grill does nothing. remember you have an AC condensor between them
- EZ out may not be the best method since well...they tend to snap and break if you torque them down hard. the "upgraded" studs are from VG30DETT..but Nissan has superceded the maxima part number w/ the higher quality studs...even if you ask for the maxima studs you will get the better ones.
#21
You said
"I just did mine a couple months ago, and you can get to everything you need from underneath if you remove the crossmember and a couple brackets."
well did you need special tools to remove the crossmember and the bracketts, is this procedure written down anywhere, because I have the same problem......
"I just did mine a couple months ago, and you can get to everything you need from underneath if you remove the crossmember and a couple brackets."
well did you need special tools to remove the crossmember and the bracketts, is this procedure written down anywhere, because I have the same problem......
#22
Originally Posted by red00maima
You said
"I just did mine a couple months ago, and you can get to everything you need from underneath if you remove the crossmember and a couple brackets."
well did you need special tools to remove the crossmember and the bracketts, is this procedure written down anywhere, because I have the same problem......
"I just did mine a couple months ago, and you can get to everything you need from underneath if you remove the crossmember and a couple brackets."
well did you need special tools to remove the crossmember and the bracketts, is this procedure written down anywhere, because I have the same problem......
getting a right angle drill helps a lot.
if you have to ask how to replace the studs then i recommend seeking professional help. i don't want a motor to fall on your head or something.
#23
"if you have to ask how to replace the studs then i recommend seeking professional help. i don't want a motor to fall on your head or something."
why should I waste my brain cells trying to do something someone else has already spent time figuring out .
that way more time for beer.........
#24
Search on 4dsc.com, there is a write-up on it there, I believe. Don't think there is a sticky here anywhere, but probably should be.
Anyway, you probably aren't going to find a bolt-by-bolt procedure. Get the basics from 4dsc.com, and then ask specific questions if you get stuck. It's pretty straight forward once you get under there and look. Things that have to come off, as I remember are AC compressor (just move it out of the way), lower crossmember, both the engine mounts that are attached, both the brackets that they bolt to on the block. Obviously, you'll be removing the y-pipe, and the EGR pipe that goes to the front manifold.
Again, just the basics, from what I remember. Unfortunately, you're probably going to have to "waste some brain cells" looking at it closer in case I have forgotten something.
Anyway, you probably aren't going to find a bolt-by-bolt procedure. Get the basics from 4dsc.com, and then ask specific questions if you get stuck. It's pretty straight forward once you get under there and look. Things that have to come off, as I remember are AC compressor (just move it out of the way), lower crossmember, both the engine mounts that are attached, both the brackets that they bolt to on the block. Obviously, you'll be removing the y-pipe, and the EGR pipe that goes to the front manifold.
Again, just the basics, from what I remember. Unfortunately, you're probably going to have to "waste some brain cells" looking at it closer in case I have forgotten something.
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