hey, on my '89 gxe whenever i try to put it into drive it doesn't engage properly and i have to give it a tap towards 2 gear for it to actually engage fully. has anyone else had this problem? is this a normal transmission needs replacing sign? thanks for your help.

 

it's a normal sign of a bad shifter bushing.

 

a common problem for 3th max, dealer ask for 80$ to fix
but the part only cost several bucks

 

It happens on my '91 also. It has been doing it ever since I got it over 4 years ago. I just got used to it by now and just push it to the back of D when I put it into gear. Once you pass reverse it will only go to N and D with out pressing the button to move it into 2. So just push it to the back of D. The least expensive option.

And no, nothing is wrong with the tranny itself, just the linkage.

 

my tranny does the same thing...its fine, you gotta just learn to deal with it, or like they said already, fix it, its probably the linkage....on mine if its in D but if you rest your hand on it, it will drop into 2nd, so you gotta tap it back up....Ive gotten used to it, so the only time im going to fix it is when I put my 5spd in there =)

 

damn sounds kinda pricey to get it fixed, how long should it last before it actually needs to be replaced? it probably varies but, how long have u guys had to deal with it for?

 

So far 4+ years. It doesnt seem like it has gotten any worse.

 

it's very easy to fix. just look under the car next to and somewhat under the the heat shield for the catalytic converter. you'll see the linkage for the shifter and between washers, either a rotted-up milky white rubber bushing, or none at all. mine was gone the last 2 times i replaced it. just pull the cotter pin, remove the washer from the outer side, push in the new bushing and replace washer and pin.
you could do it in less than 10 minutes if you have done it before.
dont let the dealership you, unless you like that.
the part was 1.50 at my dealer ship.
-M

 

Looking at the FAQ thread at the beginning of the page, and the information for this little problem is on the "Brian91" page, if I remember correctly, though everyone has responded correctly anyhow.

Unless it annoys you, or you wanna sell the car, it's really a pointless fix. It won't get worse, and you shouldn't be slamming these crappy Stanza transmissions in drive anyhow

 

I've had my car for about a year, and I've gotten so used to it, I really don't even notice anymore. Instead of "tapping" just hold it back for about a second.

I should fix it at some point though.

 

anyone have a link to a write-up about htis, or pics on how to do it, and what is the part called at the dealership

 

it's called a shifter bushing.

 

The write up below was taken from Bryan's website in the FAQs section:

http://members.csinet.net/tisch/maxima/

Bryan's website was found in the FAQs section of this 3rd gen forum at the top of the page.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

How do I change my automatic transmission bushing? (Posted by Aaron Kimball)

Repair of the shifter linkage bushing. Aaron Kimball provided the great below write-up of the bushing change. Often times the transmission will not engage in gear, despite being put in the "D" position and one will have to tap it back slightly to have it engage. This cheap new bushing will fix the issue. The repair will tighten the shift selector and linkage. Cost of the bushing at a Nissan dealer is $1.50.

Part #: 34552-D4000 Tools: Jack, jack stands or just ramps, 10mm socket, phillips screwdriver, and needle nose pliers

Make sure your exhaust is cool because your hand will be bumping it during the repair. I just put a fan pointed straight at it and the exhaust was plenty cool enough after 10 minutes. Jack your car up or drive it up on some ramps so you can easily get to the catalytic converter part of underneath your car. Get your Phillips screwdriver, a 10mm socket, and remove the heat shield directly above the catalytic converter. There are 5 10mm/Phillips bolts. You might need a universal joint socket to reach a tight place. Now, try to slide the shield towards the rear of the vehicle so that it will expose the 90 degree joint at the bottom of the linkage. If the shield is still in the way, go ahead and remove the bolts on the heat shield directly above the cat-back resonator. Once this is loosened and/or out of the way, then you will be able to get the catalytic converter heat shield out of the way.

Now, get some needle nose pliers and remove the cotter pin that is holding the linkage arm and washers in place. Once removed, note the way the washers go. For me, there was no bushing up there because it rotted off. But if there is, remove the old bushing and clean the area a bit so the new bushing will easily slide in place. I squirted a little brake cleaner up there and wiped it.

Now, put the new bushing in place and put the thin washer on first and then the thick washer next. Then, put the cotter pin back in the hole. This might be a little struggle, but you'll get it.

Now that your done, go through the gears without turning on the engine. Make sure everything is good. Bolt the heat shields back up and you're done.

 

my car does it too, and based on my research, a lot of maximas wont start unless the shifter is all the way in "P"....sometimes mine wont start and you have to push the shifter up a little to start the car....ive noticed this in several maximas at my work

 

Thia happened to me the day after I bought my car. I though I got screwed but then all of a sudden it started after I played around with a bunch of stuff. I didnt realize till the next time, what made it start.

 

Also, be sure to check your shifter linkage alignment b/c mine was way off also. For instance, make sure P is P instead of being R.