Hey Mike/sky Or Matt
#1
MY CAR SEEMS TO REV UP INTO THE 4000 TO 6500 RPM BAND WHEN I GET ON THE GAS FROM A TAKE OFF. I HAVE RACED FOR OVER 13 YEARS SO I KNOW IM NOT RIDING THE CLUTCH AND ITS ONLY GOT ABOUT 12,000 MILES ON IT. ONLY PROPLEMS I HAVE IS A SMALL HOLE IN ONE OF MY EXHAUST MANIFOLD DOWN PIPES BEHIND THE HEAT SHIELD! MY MODS INCLUDE A JWT POPCHARGER, REMOVED INTAKE RESONATOR ON STOCK PIPE, Y PIPE W/HI FLOW CAT AND B PIPE, FLOWMASTER 2 CHMBR MUFFLER W/A ICHIBAHN TIP AND A CENTERFORCE STAGE 1 CLUTCH. i BELIEVE MY ENGINE IS SUCKING A LOT OF HOT AIR CAUSING MY AIR SENSOR TO CAUSE MY ECU TO SPAZ. IF THIS IS THE PROBLEM HOW CAN I FIX THIS I ALREADY ORDERED A NEW DOWN PIPE. I'M THINKING ABOUT GETTING A 300ZX
HOOD SCOOP AND AIR CHANNEL TO FEED AIR TO MY FILTER, I ALREADY TRIED THE CAI AND I DIDNT LIKE THE PERFORMANCE. ANY IDEAS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
RON
HOOD SCOOP AND AIR CHANNEL TO FEED AIR TO MY FILTER, I ALREADY TRIED THE CAI AND I DIDNT LIKE THE PERFORMANCE. ANY IDEAS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
RON
#3
1. please don't use your caps lock key. it's very annoying.
2. you mean you floor it and the engine goes to 4000+ rpm, and the clutch is slipping, or the engine just revs to 4000+ rpm on it's own without you hitting the gas?
if the clutch is slipping, does it do it only when it's cold? I've heard of the centerforce clutches slipping pretty bad when they're cold, then get better when they warm up. you should be able to get it replaced under warranty.
or the engine just revs on it's own to 4000+ rpm? if that's the case, I'd say something in your throttle cable or throttle body is hanging up, causing the throttle to stick open. with your engine off, disconnect your throttle cable from your throttle body and play with the throttle position on it. it should move freely, then spring closed again. if not, you need to fix whatever's wrong with your throttle body.
if that's good, then check your throttle cable itself. make sure there's no kinks in it anywhere and that it slides freely. you should be able to easily slide the cable back and forth from under the hood. if that's the problem, figure out where the problem is and clean or replace your throttle cable as necessary.
those are my only ideas.. other than that, I dunno. good luck and let us know what you figure out!
2. you mean you floor it and the engine goes to 4000+ rpm, and the clutch is slipping, or the engine just revs to 4000+ rpm on it's own without you hitting the gas?
if the clutch is slipping, does it do it only when it's cold? I've heard of the centerforce clutches slipping pretty bad when they're cold, then get better when they warm up. you should be able to get it replaced under warranty.
or the engine just revs on it's own to 4000+ rpm? if that's the case, I'd say something in your throttle cable or throttle body is hanging up, causing the throttle to stick open. with your engine off, disconnect your throttle cable from your throttle body and play with the throttle position on it. it should move freely, then spring closed again. if not, you need to fix whatever's wrong with your throttle body.
if that's good, then check your throttle cable itself. make sure there's no kinks in it anywhere and that it slides freely. you should be able to easily slide the cable back and forth from under the hood. if that's the problem, figure out where the problem is and clean or replace your throttle cable as necessary.
those are my only ideas.. other than that, I dunno. good luck and let us know what you figure out!
#4
NO, I HAVE THE CLUTCH WERE MY MECHANIC ADJUSTED IT WHEN HE PUT IN THE CLUTCH. ITS FINE THERE IS A NOTCHY FEELING IN FIRST AND SECOND THOUGH BUT I DONT THINK THATS THE PROBLEM EVERYTHING WAS FINE UNTIL I TOOK OF THE LITTLE RESONATE ON MY INTAKE PIPE!
#5
No its not the clutch its real bad when its about 90 degrees outside and the engine is warmed up, like i said before it started after i took out the litttle resonater on my stock intake pipe after the air sensor. i sealed the hole with a piece of plastic by heating the two together with plastic seal no leaks and you cant even tell the hole was there but i will check that out for good measure though thanks, ill give you a update on those cables tomorrow!
#6
ohhhhh, you didn't say anything about the intake resonator being removed..
I'll bet you money you've got an air leak in it somewhere between the MAF and the engine.. maybe it's not lined up correctly so air's leaking through the gap, or the plastic piece you melted into place has fallen off or cracked or something, but I'm anout 90% sure you've got an air leak.
I'll bet you money you've got an air leak in it somewhere between the MAF and the engine.. maybe it's not lined up correctly so air's leaking through the gap, or the plastic piece you melted into place has fallen off or cracked or something, but I'm anout 90% sure you've got an air leak.
#7
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I removed my intake resonator and ended up having what sounds like the problem you are having.It was fine for a few days then a leak developed around the plug I used. I didn't notice any performance gain or sound gain from removing the resonator so I put it back on. Problem solved.
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