when you guys talk about our engines "hesitating"; are you talking about when you first put your foot on the gas to leave a stop light, and the car kinda "hesitates", the rpms drop a little, and then everything goes back to normal?
If this is hesitation, what was determined to be the problem?

 

damn squirrels in the manifolds again...BACK I SAY BACK<<<SCRAM !!!!!!

check your coil packs and injectors and any vaccum leaks...

 

yea, i've gotten just about sick enough with this problem that i'm considering taking it to the dealer...

 

probably gonna get screwed on cost...their gonna replace everything before they find the problem

 

where exactly are the coil packs and what do they llok like and how can i tell if they are cracked i am 19 please dont flame me....

 

No, a pressure plate has the little fingers on it, it bolts to the flywheel on a manual transmission car, it is what the throw out bearing makes contact with.

Auto's have a Flex Plate which is what the torque converter bolts to.


<- winnar!

 

Well the dealer will just diagnose and if they can't find anything broken, I see it hard for them to start changing parts randomly. They don't want to deal with customers saying "if you changed it and it didn't fix it, why should I pay for it?" Dealers don't like to guess but they do like to charge for diagnose time. Just because it goes to the dealer doesn't mean that they are going to fix it. They have a greater change to finding what it is because they have machines that are our car specific. There have been people I have spoken to who went to the dealer for this problem and their solution is either "replace the motor" or "replace the harness" and some have gone through with replacing the harness only to find that it didn't work and the problem was still there.

 

Check this site out for trouble shooting http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesi...esitation.html

 

Well, I after I installed my ASP pulley we fired her up...ran fine, was cold so it was idling about 1500rpm, then all of a sudden it was like an intake leak occured or soemthin choked the engine temporaily, then it went back to idle at about 1200rpm(still warming up)....then about 1 minute later it happened again, and it almost died, but then somehow got back up to 900-1000rpm(almost warm)...and then 1 more time, about 30 secs later it did it again, but it only dipped about 150rpms, and got back to normal quick...during this time we did a few quick hard taps to the maf , nothing really happened as we were tapping. I left his house and headed home....I got maybe 5 blocks away, and my car was probably at 1500-2000rpm(slight throttle) and it started humping like it just got out of prison....let go of gas and then tried to re-apply same throttle to get it to do it again...and it hasn't done it since...but this was only earlier today....gonna be a long going problem until it gets worse...Im pointing my finger at the MAF i think it is slowly going bad...or maybe a bad knock sensor, replaced alot of other tune up stuff already....anyone have similar case to mine and find a solution??? im desperate

 

Thats the same problem I always had. If it does it at warm up then its going to happen when you drive for sure. My car doesn't do that anymore at warm up and it hasn't acted up for a long time after I did the knock sensor and sub harness. Its a weird problem and there is nothing at this point where we can say to fix this problem you have to replace this. Hope it doesn't do it anymore.

 

I had hesitation blues also but mine was the Mafs. It would just stall and start right back up and run perfect for days and then stall. I checked everything and was sure it was my TPS or KS because a master nissan mech said if it was NOT the MAF it would run bad all the time and will not go over 2000 rpm. Mine code was a 12 but didn't believe it. Check out this site on hesitation zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html

 

You responded to my taping of my coil packs like maybe you do that too? The last time I re-did it on myown black92se auto I first filled the cracks as best I could with some hi-temp silicone sealant and then taped them really tightly with electrical tape. It only bucks or hesitates once in a great while now. That is why I want some new packs with no cracks at all and I plan to switch MAF's with one of my triplets that run fine.

 

can anyone help me?

 

was curious....I taped all mine up today pretty tight with electrical tape. I inspected them all closely and saw zero cracking at all. taped them up anyways, car felt like it wanted to start bucking and then it just didn't...kinda hard to explain, it stumbled lightly like it does right when it starts bucking, then just drove normal without having to let go of gas or floor it. Im still thinking my problem is MAF, but if it dont buck ever again, maybe taping coil packs reduces them from leaking voltage?. Im going to junkyard in next couple of weeks to look for decent-somewhat new black leather seats, gonna try to find fog lights, maf, coil packs, TPS, for my max

 

...and this morning got in car, drove it 1 mile, got to my house, parked, and right when i stopped, the car stalled, but didn't die, dropped to 100rpms, then ran normal again....hmmmm...damn intermitent problems. cant wait till i get money for a junkyard maf, coil packs and hopefully some leather

 

You have an 1989? Then don't worry, you don't have them.

 

I think we're discribing different symtoms. The original problem that Jeff was refering to is pretty much how he explained it, you're cruising along about 2000rpm with a steady pedal, all of a sudden the throttle cuts out, then back on, then off again kinda like someone is turning the key off and on, off and on. All of this is happening with a steady pedal. Someone mentioned he tried increasing or decreasing the pedal position while it's acting up and it made no difference, it still was acting up. Those two symtoms sound exactly like the problems I was having, I also tried increasing and decreasing the pedal position and nothing happen. Just like Jeff mentioned, mine started acting up on the same road about tha same time going the same mph, now that bug me out at first untill it started acting up more frequently.

This is not a stalling problem, even though it seemed as if someone was turning the key off/on the engine never stalled or died. It only acted up while cruising about 2000 rpm with a steady pedal, it never acted up when at a idle, while at a idle the rpm never drop to 200-400 rpm then back up to normal idle. I think all you guys who are having stalling or idle fluctuation problem it's a different problem that what Jeff was refering to, those problems could be due to something else, then again it could all be related.

Through out the years I've collected a few TPS, every time I go to the bone yards I usually grab one for that just in case and when it was time to diagnose this problem I check some of the TPS I had and 1-2 didn't test ok. Finally I came across one that test ok. When I installed mine I adjusted it properly and i've been trouble free for about a year.

Just my $0.02
MIKE

 

Thanks Mike. I'll have to check that out. I have 1-2 spares I can try. Never tested one though
Odd thing is this happened EXACTLY like mine did. Same rpm, at the same place, time etc.. very interesting.

 

ive been able to test the resitance on all my injectors and coil packs and knock sensor, all are ok...how can you test your TPS while the car is running? where do you stick the needles on the red and black things from the ohmeter or whatever its called... also can you test the maf?

 

im thinking my dropping low rpms and almost dieing is due to an intake leak? but it only does it like, once a week. car runs fine otherwise, besides bucking it does every few days. currently i am swapping 1 coil pack at a time with spares i have around, gonna drive on each one for a week or so to thoroughly give the coil packs a chance

 

i'm cutting out and stalling everyday!! but once i've driven it for a good distance it goes away. then it comes back the next morning... i'm gonna visit a junk yard and pull out a maf, intake pipe, and other ignition stuff and swap them out one by one to see if it goes away...

 

Hey.

I was having the same problems with my max.. I replaced the engine control relay (i read this on an earlier post) it only cost me $35 ($25ish US) but i haven't had the probalem ever again (knock on wood) for 4 months
Hope all your probalems can be fixed as easy as mine

Good Luck

Matt

 

What is your car and where is your engine control relay located. We tried to look for that in the VE motor, I think it was easy to find on the VG motor Maxima's. Please share!!!

 

did your car cut out while idling at a stop, or coming to a stop, on right turns, left turns? just curious of the symptoms you had

 

there is a skinny black box with 4 or so relays in it by the battery, should be the engine control relay, it might be the eccs, if it is, then on the otherside, by the radiator fill bottle there is another black box with relays in it, check there. ive heard this problem can occur due to either eccs or engine control relay

 

I've tried looking for it and couldn't find, none of those relays are labeled ECCS on my 1992 Maxima VE 5-speed. Please if someone could tell me where it is.

 

are you guys talking about this, the "main" relays/fuses


edit: i found where it should be, +1 with Dsta, i dont have "ECCS" either

mine goes: blank - corner lamp - ign coil - FICD

 

NO. Those are fuses and fuse links. The relays are near the hood on either side. They are green usually and marked eng cont, eccs, or ignition coil.

 

I have 94 ve and i have not had this "cutting out" problem. this engine has over 267,000 miles on it, and not a single buck. I am wondering if nissan changed something between the 92 and 94 year models to fix this problem

 

Count yourself lucky, I guess!

My '94 VE doesn't necessarily "buck", but definitely dies when coming to a stop or slowing down. When it is "in it's mood" (which is very intermittent) it will also show signs of unstable engine rpm's at about the 1500-2000K range, both when I'm driving with a constant pressure on the accelerator and when coasting. Mine is an automatic by the way. Not sure what everyone else is driving that experiences this problem.

It always restarts just fine, but will not idle properly...seems to want to idle too high and also seems to be searching for the proper idle speed. Then dies again when I put it into gear.

This morning I stopped when it was doing this and tapped the MAF. The idle would increase momentarily and then decrease when I stopped tapping it. Is this the appropriate "tapping test" that is referred to?

 

I think the idle problems point to the Aux Air Idle Control Valve more than anything else. If the tapping the maf solved it, then it's either the maf or the connections.

 

Have you checked your ecu for any codes?

 

Only thing I ever get is the Knock Sensor - 34.

 

that sounds like MAF going bad. MAF will cause that idle jumping shiat too

try checking connector for corrision and cleaning if necesarry

 

91 SE model

I had (note the past tense) this same problem. I was fortunate enough to locate a road that would consistently cause this failure, so I could troubleshoot it easily.

In the end, it was the O2 sensor. The dealer thought it was MAF, but was wrong. The dealer said that I had no error codes stored in the computer - but when I checked it, I had code 33.

Some people think that the O2 sensor lives forever - others think they last 50K km. Mine was never changed - and that was about 200K km.

To troubleshoot - disconnect the O2 sensor - I undid the connector at the back of the engine next to the firewall - and see if the problem goes away. If it does, that's your problem.

 

well...about 1 week ago I started my actualy troubleshooting with this stalling and bucking problem i had at least 1 time a day or 1 time every 2 days. So I decided to swap out my coil packs 1 by 1 with my old jdm ones. I switched 1 so far, the back left one on passenger side. Since I have put the jdm coil pack in its spot...I have not got a single hicup from my car. But it has only been 1 week, knock on wood. I hope I got lucky and solved this problem for me

 

I had the problem this morning, wasnt expecting it, but it was around in 4th gear @ 105mph, i think it was around 3-4k rpm. It wasnt as bad as I have normally experienced it, but it was still the loss of accelerating power for a second or two.

Brian

 

well, if you tap the maf with a wrench and you get the same problem that means maf is no good correct ?

 

no if thers no change at all that doesnt mean anything

 

if a knock sensor is bad or isn't functioning correctly, will you always get the code?