asaw3157

alright, so my car had been dieng, as some of you may know, and my new mechanic replaced the crank angle sensor which he said was the problem....well it wasn't. So he said that some of the coil packs were bad, and replaced a few of those.....and that wasn't the problem either. So my car has been in the shop for almost a week, my mechanic has no clue what he is doing, he never returns my calls, and I can't take my car anywhere else cause it will die on me....ahhh!!!!!!!! I just felt like complaining. I needed to let off some of my fumes. I can't wait to see what this guy trys and charge me, cause i will shove it back in his face

blacks92seAuto

if it dies on right turns it could possibly either your eccs relay going bad, or the eng cont relay. cost like 18 bucks, buy 1 relay, both are the same, put the new relay in the eccs spot, if that still doesn't help, then put it in the eng cont........need more info to be sure of anything tho. how does it die, driving. idle, turning, coastin....speed...warm, cold..?? we need more info to narrow it down, it really could be a number of things

asaw3157

First tell me this, could a set of platinum champion spark plugs do this if I don't have NGK's in there? I found out recently NGK's are the main spark plug used in these cars, and I believe that I have a set of champions in there right now. Also, it dies only when I'm accellerating, it occured when it was the engine was warm and cold, speed ranged from anywhere between 15-45 miles an hour when it does die, never when Idling, never when turning, and the mechanic workin on it says that its not the fuel system.

Drivin Maxima

iTrader: (7)

well not havin NGKs in there, shouldnt neccessarily make it stall out and all. if anything they would make it not run to its full potential. also i had a problem that kind of sounds similar to yours. i was havin a problem with bucking, stalling (both at idle and acceleration), and when i would start it up after it would stall it would idle absolutely horrible. i went back and forth with people who work on imports and all and i had a mechanic swearin to me it was the fuel pump (cause apparently i was loosin fuel pressure whenever it happened). and i was told fuel pump relay too, and bad grounds, maybe even speed sensor. none of those were the problem. but i finally found out that it was the cam sensor. but unfortunately you cant just change the cam sensors in these cars so i had to get a whole new distributor. the problem hasnt come back yet and that was done around christmas time last year.
maybe this helps man, if not the cam sensor then check fuel pressure when it happens. you might have to drive around the block with a fuel pressure gauge on it so you can see it when it happens. but hopefully one of these helps you out to narrow it down. good luck

asaw3157

Here is what my mechanic has been telling me: due to the way the car dies (almost suddenly), the problem is not within the fuel system because that would be a more gradual shutdown as I lost pressure. He has switched out the crank angle sensor, all new coil packs, new spark plugs, checked voltages throughout the engine components, everything seems to be running ok, he even switched in a new MAF sensor, but still I have the same problems. PLEASE, ANYONE, I NEED SOME HELP. Neither my mechanic nor I know where to go from here.....

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Aux air idle control valve?

asaw3157

any suggestions are welcome, as I will run them through with mey mechanic

asaw3157

and as far as the aux idle control valve, it never dies when idling, so my mechanic said thats probably not the problem

asaw3157

any more suggestions...anything??? IM DESPERATE

Drivin Maxima

iTrader: (7)

well one thing that i was told to do was to look at my cpu and see if there was a light flashing on it and if so that was the computer letting me know that itself was bad. i think it was something along those lines. also ask him about the cam sensor or even the reluctor or something internal on the distributor maybe. another thing i tried on mine was to bypass the egr. you could try that, just plug up the vacuum nipple so that it wont open up the valve. sometimes its the little things that go wrong that drive you to drink, but since you seem to already have the basics operating (air, fuel, spark), then try to eliminate different sensors dont just have your mechanic slap on parts on a wim. try to go down the list yourself of with him/her if need be. again good luck.

asaw3157

well i talked with my mechanic in St. Louis, and he thought it might be a sensor within the cooling system. That is basically my last resort, if thats not it the mechanic I have working on it says he won't do any more diagnostics unless I fork over more money to him, which im not willing to do considering how much he wants......I'm praying to the maxima gods that the sensor is whats wrong

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Learn to fix your car. It save so much money and gives you that tingly feeling inside when you fix it yourself.

asaw3157

I would if i new what was wrong, had the tools, had the space, and had the time.....but I'm in college with no place but a parking lot to work and limited tools and also if a mechanic can't even diagnose it in a week, I don't see how I could. Whatever work I can do to a car myself, I do it. But right now I'm out of options and extremely frustrated. Oh, and I just got a call from the mechanic, and the coolant system is fine, so im f*******

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

You have got to start somewhere. Let me tell you a little story... Back when was about 21 yrs old i had a 85 trans am, i didn't know much about cars. the car went though about 3 fuel pumps before i took it to a mechanic. he charged me $60 to tell me that he didn't know what the problem was!! Well that was the last time any car of mine went to the shop... I LEARNED TO FIX IT MY SELF!!! Started buying tools,fix it manuels,etc. etc.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

And im going to let you in on a little secret....Most repair shops are a big ripoff!!

Drivin Maxima

iTrader: (7)

this is very true. you almost have to shop for a mechanic like you would for a car. and another thing, if your so called mechanic still has no idea of what direction to even look in after a week, hes not a mechanic in my book and if you ask me you should get your car out of there and look for someone else wit the right skills to do the job right. it seems to me from what ive been readin that hes just sayin its this and that and slappin parts on.

NismoChi

iTrader: (4)

Try testing your Throttle Position Sensor or Cam Sensor according to the FSM. Also a bad Ignition Switch could cause it to die, too.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

Did you replace all of your coil packs, or just "some of them?"

My problem was one of my rear coil packs was bad. It stalled out quite a bit. I replaced all three rears and it never did it again.

asaw3157

well im taking my car out of that mechanic's shop, and trying to figure out what I'm going to do with it. You see, I wish I had the time and money to work on this myself, but considering I just came down for my freshman year of college a couple months back I have neither time nor money. I had a mechanic who I knew and trusted in St. Louis, but now here in Springfield, MO there is really no one I can trust, and I realize that most auto repair places will rip me off. What I think I'm going to do is attempt to take this car back up to St. Louis to the mechanic I know (he is also the guy I got this car through), and let him fix it. I'm all about fixing my own car, I have been doing it in the past, but right now there is just no way I can.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I had a car (not a Max) that would die while driving, never happened at idle. Throw it in neutral while rolling down the road and restart the engine, no problem. Finally the MAF unit died and there went my dying out problem.

asaw3157

I'm not sure if its the MAF or not though, because my mechanic claims he tried a new one out, but I really don't know if he did anything he has actually said, and I don't trust him whatsoever. I'm getting the car away from his shop ASAP, and I might try picking up a MAF around here and trying it out. Anyone have a spare MAF in working condition they want to sell me?

asaw3157

Well I picked up my car today, as I planned to take it up to my mechanic in St. Louis this weekend to get it fixed the right way. Well, I got home, and had a idea....what if the battery was causing the problems (I have subs and an amp hooked up to it). Sure enough I unplugged the amp from the battery and it ran fine. All this because my stereo system was draining too much power from my battery....RIDICULOUS. And the fact that the mechanic, after all the testing he claims he did, couldn't realize that the battery was being drained. wow

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Did you get that tingly feeling.

asaw3157

Oh yes, all over....it made me feel all happy inside, until I realized I spent money to have a mechanic try and diagnose this problem, who completely failed

asaw3157

alright, so i took my car out for a test drive (a long one) to see if it was just the amplifier causing the problem...and it still does die, no where near as often, but every once in awhile. Could this be my alternator going out? I just had the battery tested, and it runs great, so I was thinking possibly the alternator

Drivin Maxima

iTrader: (7)

well one thing it may be wit the alternator might be the rectifier, but ask your mechanic if that might be the cause of it.

maximagxe90

Hi,

if there is a autozone near your area,

have them test your alternator for you,

they will test it for you free of charge,

hope this help

asaw3157

I'm going to do that today, thanks for all of the help guys. We will see the results later on

asaw3157

well the battery and alternator tested just fine.....by the way, whats the function of the rectifier and where is it located?

3rdmaxse0

rectifier changes AC to DC and is located in the alternator itself. when ur car dies do u have the brake and battery light go on the same time. I had a alternator going bad and when I had my accessories on the battery was draining and alternator was too weak to charge and under load engine would buck and stall and both warning lights would come together. next check ur battery connections and connections at alternator.

asaw3157

yes thats exactly what happens....so it is the alternator, interesting. You know, you would think a mechanic would be able to figure out a problem after a week of work