:w00t: finally got it!
I thought the UPS truck was bringing me Blehmco toys 2 days earily (Fedex would ) but instead I got my pulley finally!






I'm not going to install it until I can drive my car again, I wanna really feel the difference

the timing marks spacing is kind of off though

 

Good. YOu can give me this one until mine comes back.

 

knowing you it will sit 3 months before you touch it again

 

Oh nice one. But mine's already fast. Actually while it was summer time, I liked the colder AC. I noticed it wasn't as cold when the UDP was one.

 

Forget it. I got mine today too. When did you send yours back shawn? My turn around was about 1.5 weeks. Not bad when 90% of that is shipping to/from

 

mine is red which makes mine > shawn's

 

since its an underdrive pulley wouldn't they need to mess with the timing marks due to the decreased size?

 

I'll have to remember that

 

Well I bought it brand new from "Philip" alittle over a month ago, but he forgot to sent it, so I emailed him after a few weeks went buy I would assume it was just a week or two. I was actually just thinking about calling ASP again today but then it came a few hours later

Mine was brand new, which makes it > klowns


ricer

 

well yes, but thats not what I meant.
The space between 5-10* is alot wider than the space between say 0-5* and esp. between 15-20*.

Doesn't really matter, I marked 15 and 20 degrees on my CPS so I can retard my timing on a moments notice incase it starts pinging or I get a sudden urge to fill up with 87 , hasn't happened yet, but atleast its there.

 

What is this sleeve? Why is it needed? My ASP UDP works just fine the way it is.

 

the oil seal on the crank will eventually wear down the aluminum and develop a leak, as per others experiences

mine has been sitting in my room since i got it and i sent it out while i was building the motor and got one back with the steel sleeve on it

hope my A/C doesnt suck in the summer now...

 

That's what I was thinking, is there anyone with a ASP and no leakage from the seal? I've had my ASP for over 4 years and my seal in not leaking.

Appearantely with a ASP pulley being aluminum, over time the seal will wear a groove into the pulley. This sleeve (which I think is steal) will help prevent premature wear of the pulley.

They really need to enlarge the inner diameter of the pulley. How many of you had to force the pulley on? (very carefully of course)

MIKE

 

yeah i did, and this was with my engine sitting right in front of me on an engine stand

 

ya I had to hit mine in not really hard though, but it fit tight and snug with a few wacks of the hammer

 

Yeah, but I got mine for 30 cheaper and you still have to buy belts

 

where did you got your part MRGONE. I think mrgone got it for $25

 

No I dont
I bought mine from a guy who got it off the group deal a year ago or so. Then I had him send it to ASP instead of to me so they could install the collar then send it to me

 

Oh ok. I've had my ASP UDP for 3 years exactly and I am not leaking. But, if you look REALLY closely, I think I see a little seapage. But, it takes a few months to even notice any seapage.

 

I've had to hammer mine in and I replaced the seal also when I installed and its been about 2 years and no leaks.

A/C does not get affected at all, mine still works and it has the same crap in there since factory, never had to charge it.

 

In theory the AC should be affected. The compressor turns slower. You can't really get around that fact. Maybe mine is not in tip top shape but the above fact still holds true.

BTW. I just tapped mine on until I could get the bolt/washer on. Then just pressed it on by tightening the bolt

 

I still have the prototype UR UDP on my max and have had zero leak issues, I think its almost three years now, definitly over two. I have to goto UR and swap it for a production model, after my experience with them I'd be a lot happier buying an ASP UDP and taking a hammer to the UR.

 

I've had my pulley for probably a year and a half, and I haven't noticed any leakage (knocks on wood). Yeah the size was a bit of a problem, but nothing that a little love from a hammer and 2x4 couldn't solve.

 

It's no secret we all had to use some sorta hammer or 2x4 to get the pulley on. The same way you gonna have to use a puller or pry bar to get it off, that's just the way it is. Couple of things I've notice since installing my UDP

1) When I installed my UDP I was curious to see if it would effect my charging system. So I did a complete alternator voltage and amp rating test before and after the UDP. I was happy to see there was absolutely no difference in the numbers. Even with the acessories turning slower the alternator was still performing the same.

2) My AC also doesn't seem to have been effected either. Since I've owned this car my windows have never been tinted, but yet there are times I find myself turning a AC blower down to the #1 position because it was gotten cool enough in the cabin. It doesn't matter if I'm in bumper to bumper, cruising the hwy, northern or southern Cali, south Florida the blower speed button is usually in the #1 position. Maybe my AC system has been that efficient over the years.

3) When I did my VTC rebuild I was curious to see how accurate the timing marks were on the UDP. Using my OEM crank pulley I set my timing to 15*, stop the motor, removed the OEM pulley, installed the UDP and started the motor. The timing mark was dead on 15* with the UDP. At that point i was convinced the graduation marks on the UDP were correct, but i didn't look close enough to see if there were evenly spaced. so I'll just leave it at that.

4) I also didn't feel any noticeable gains with the butt dyno like some others were posting. I got mine in hopes of helping the auto VE bottom end but since I'm a auto maybe that's the reason the butt dyno didn't feel anything.

MIKE

 

I felt something. I easily noticed my tach needle moving MUCH faster. Throttle response got much better. And it was hard to notice, but my car launched faster from 0-10 mph. This is all in the butt dyno.

When I finally hit the track to compare times, my 60' dropped exactly one tenth from 2.55 to 2.45. Yes, 2.55 is bad, but I was in some high altitude at the time. My 1/4 mile decreased by slightly over 2 tenths. So it's not a monster gain, but well worth the money IMO.

 

You guys stop all of this pulley talk, mine hasn't arrived yet

Plus, I probably won't be able to install it until after Christmas

 

unacceptable

 

never had a problem here either...i dont see a need for this sleeve. my pulley was on for 2 years before i had the motor rebuilt, it looked brand new when taken off. as far as installation goes i didnt have any trouble taking the old pulley off, i just whacked it with a rubber mallet once and it popped loose then i just wiggled it off the crank.

joining klown and mrgone,
my specific pulley > both of yours

 

AC > no AC

 

i'm quite happy you agree with me

 

did ASP produce pullies without the sleeve and then fix it after problems occured? Or is this a part someone else cale up with? I have a differnt brand pully without a sleeve and would like to have one installed. Of course I have a differnt engine too....

 

Olds = no sleeve. New ones = w/ sleeve. You can send the olds ones in for the sleeve install. And for n/c other than shipping to them. They even cover the cost of shipping to you. Pretty good service. If you talk to them, they might do it. Probably not for free either.

 

Well RPM do it? or did you guys go directly to ASP? I will have to do this when I swap my motor. How long did it take? and does it feel heavier at all?

 

doubt it, they are just the retailer, ASP is the manufacture

I did, Jeff did, KLoWns did, Matt did

week or two?

 

regarding the A/C difference, i did some calculations..

using v = w x r, where v = velocity of the belt on the pulley, w = angular velocity of the pulley, and r = radius of the pulley

stock pulley diameter (where the A/C belt sits) is about 6 7/16" --> r = d/2 = 3.22"
ASP pulley diameter (where the A/C belt sits) is about 5 7/16" --> r = d/2 = 2.72"
A/C pulley diameter is about 5 7/16" --> r = 2.72 (~same as ASP)

so we have a simple 2 pulley system, i eliminated the tensioner pulley in the calculation since it is not a variable factor in the experiment



say the motor is at idle, ~750rpm --> 78.5 rad/s

STOCK PULLEY & A/C:

v(belt) = w(stock pulley) x r(stock pulley)
v(belt) = 78.5 rad/s x 3.22 in
v(belt) = 252.77 in/s


w(A/C) = v(belt) / r(A/C)
w(A/C) = 252.77 in/s / 2.72 in
w(A/C) = 92.9 rad/s --> 887rpm


ASP PULLEY & A/C:

v(belt) = w(ASP pulley) x r(ASP pulley)
v(belt) = 78.5 rad/s x 2.72 in
v(belt) = 213.52 in/s

w(A/C) = v(belt) / r(A/C)
w(A/C) = 213.52 in/s / 2.72 in
w(A/C) = 78.5 rad/s --> 750 rpm (same as ASP since theyre approx equal radius)



(100-%)/100 = 750rpm/887rpm

% = 15.45, so the A/C is turning approx 15% slower with the ASP pulley versus the stock pulley

 

sounds like I need a smaller clutch pulley to bring the RPMs back up

 

sounds like you need to get a UDP first

 

nope, other cars come first.
this car tried to kill me this morning.

 

You did alot of calculating to figure that out when it says "15% reduction" on ASP's site

 

i know, but i like figuring things out for myself