i ordered my warpseed ypipe for my ve today. and i decided to get started on loosening nuts so it wouldn't be so hard when it gets here. i sprayed pb blaster on there earlier today. well tonight i was able to break the front manifold nuts loose with the breaker bar(it does wonders) with ease. but when I got to the rear manifold nut, one of them is gay. when i get the socket on it with my hand it has full regular grip. but when i put the breaker on it it slides on the nut like its stripped. but the nut nor the socket is stripped. it just spins, so whats a different alternative for the nut. also its a 15mm deep socket. and its only one nut thats being gay.i dont want to pay a shop so they can break a stud and charge me to get in a new one.

 

u need to borrow some air tools or try calling up a local muffler shop they should break them loose for free if its a good shop

 

Can someone own themselves any more on a thread title?? I seriously thought someone edited his thread.

 

it doesn't help that you were the last reply. I though there was going to be drama/ownage +++ hehehehehe


the problem is the socket, all of the bolts are 14mm (except the cat, which is 17mm).

 

does it spin the opposite way too. try pulling on the pipe when you spin to see if the threads will catch


oh btw, too much lubricant on you nuts makes them hard to grab. couldn't help it.

 

u could also try buying a tourch and heat it up.

 

The nut is 14mm. Thats why you are stripping it. Try using the 14 mm.

 

it being a 14mm sounds like the solution.the prob wasn't the nut just spinning on the thread. it was the socket spinning on the nut, but when i put in on there with my hand it caught like it was the proper socket. i probaly could have thought about it last night, but it was too cold outside, so i gave up and posted. Ill go buy a 17 & 14mm deep and see what happens. Thanks Guys.

 

Just make sure to use a lot of the Rust blaster. It would suck to break the bolt.

 

rookie...

it feels loose...but when you put the 14mm on it'll be a lot tighter.

also don't blame the nuts when it's the person working on it that's the dum-dum.

 

I thought you were the one that did that, Jeff?

 

Be nice now....We were all rookies at one time.

 

when the pipe gets here will it be a basic bolt on or would i have to modify something. also does it come with new nuts or do i need to use the old ones. so far this has been relatively easy and I most definately didnt need to spend 80-100 bucks to take off the old one and put on the new one. i spent 25 bucks on supplies from harbor freight, and now i also have some new tools. I never had a breaker barbut now i got one, and boy do i love that thing. i never thought that it was that useful for 10 bucks.

 

one of the funniest thread titles i've ever seen...

 

I couldn't have made that up myself

 

lol...are you sure you really want to do this yourself? : get a full socket set instead of just what you need for the job. (10mm - 24mm)

 

^^^^yeap^^^^^


all you really need for his car is a 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 27(iirc), and 36mm
but having a full set is good.

 

I don't want anything to do with you and your nuts

 

true...but i don't blame the hardware for being "ghey" because i can't move the nut.

 

sounds like a personal problem to me

 

now that i think about it, it does sound kind of gay