'92 maxima problem with steering.
#1
'92 maxima problem with steering.
Hello,
I replaced the outer CV joint and boot on driver's side on my '92 GXE. Since then, the car seems to "fight" me for the steering wheel.
When I accelerate, the steering wheel pulls left and right as if someone is holding it and trying to shake it. This isn't vibration of the steering wheel. The oscilation is slow.
Anyway, it felt like something in the suspension was loose or broken, but it bugged me that it happened right after I re-did the CV joint.
I then replaced both side control arms, with new ball joint, and replaced the struts and strut mounts and bearings.
The only think I can guess is that the rack is dead? or outer tie rod ends?
Can anyone help me diagnose this problem please?
So far, I think I've replaced most of the front suspension components (they need replacing anyway), but the problem won't go away (Just had alignment done too, and it didn't help). and it's strange that it occurred after the CV joint work.
One more thing. when I start the car in freezing cold weather, there is loud knocking sound just behind the glovebox. I am suspecting that since the only really moving part I seem to remember is the blower motor, I am guessing the blower motor is dying? It's funny because it makes the sound even when the fan is not on...
I replaced the outer CV joint and boot on driver's side on my '92 GXE. Since then, the car seems to "fight" me for the steering wheel.
When I accelerate, the steering wheel pulls left and right as if someone is holding it and trying to shake it. This isn't vibration of the steering wheel. The oscilation is slow.
Anyway, it felt like something in the suspension was loose or broken, but it bugged me that it happened right after I re-did the CV joint.
I then replaced both side control arms, with new ball joint, and replaced the struts and strut mounts and bearings.
The only think I can guess is that the rack is dead? or outer tie rod ends?
Can anyone help me diagnose this problem please?
So far, I think I've replaced most of the front suspension components (they need replacing anyway), but the problem won't go away (Just had alignment done too, and it didn't help). and it's strange that it occurred after the CV joint work.
One more thing. when I start the car in freezing cold weather, there is loud knocking sound just behind the glovebox. I am suspecting that since the only really moving part I seem to remember is the blower motor, I am guessing the blower motor is dying? It's funny because it makes the sound even when the fan is not on...
#3
Yes, the tires were balanced and the car was aligned.
The problem started right after I refurbished the driver's CV joint. I am wondering if I damaged the joint (inner) while putting it back in the car? Can damaged inner CV joint do that? Other than the wobbling, it drives fine, but it's bit scary, and I am afraid of letting my wife drive it...
I also had a mechanic take a look at my strut, control arm, ball joint job. He said it was done well and saw nothing really wrong with them. He thought it was just out of alignment and thus the re-alignment but it still wobbles...
I really appreciate the help,
The problem started right after I refurbished the driver's CV joint. I am wondering if I damaged the joint (inner) while putting it back in the car? Can damaged inner CV joint do that? Other than the wobbling, it drives fine, but it's bit scary, and I am afraid of letting my wife drive it...
I also had a mechanic take a look at my strut, control arm, ball joint job. He said it was done well and saw nothing really wrong with them. He thought it was just out of alignment and thus the re-alignment but it still wobbles...
I really appreciate the help,
#5
Jeff, what do you mean by right axel?
Only one of the axels were removed at a time and only after I was done did I work on the other side.
I am wondering if I damaged anything while working on the driver's side, because it happened right after I did the driver's side...
I know I didn't bang away at the axel when inserting, but because when I pushed it back in first time and it was so easy, I did push on it with all my might to see if it would "snap" in... But then again, I am not a large person, so I am guessing that couldn't have damaged it...
It's so frustrating, because I spent so much $ on parts and have been resisting going to a mechanic. But then the last mechanic said it might be the tie rod end (although I didn't even remove them from the knuckle when I did the job...
Thanks alot for all your helps guys...
Only one of the axels were removed at a time and only after I was done did I work on the other side.
I am wondering if I damaged anything while working on the driver's side, because it happened right after I did the driver's side...
I know I didn't bang away at the axel when inserting, but because when I pushed it back in first time and it was so easy, I did push on it with all my might to see if it would "snap" in... But then again, I am not a large person, so I am guessing that couldn't have damaged it...
It's so frustrating, because I spent so much $ on parts and have been resisting going to a mechanic. But then the last mechanic said it might be the tie rod end (although I didn't even remove them from the knuckle when I did the job...
Thanks alot for all your helps guys...
#7
Oh I see what you mean.
I re-used the old axel, just replaced the outer CV joint with a brand-new one and new boots. I basically followed Matt Blehm's article, except instead of cleaning out the outerjoint, I got new ones.
I did compare the outer joint and the splines etc looked identical.
As for the tranny end of the axel, it was the identical axel, so I don't think that would do much.
I did replace the axel seal on the driver's side, and I have the car apart and I see that the new seal is bit chewed up (must have happened when I was putting in the new axel? But I am not sure if that would do much.
Does anyone know what damaged inner cv joint acts like? I know that outer joint will click, but I am wondering if I somehow damaged the inner CV joint?
I have spent way too much time and new parts to let this car go... Thanks again for the help,
I re-used the old axel, just replaced the outer CV joint with a brand-new one and new boots. I basically followed Matt Blehm's article, except instead of cleaning out the outerjoint, I got new ones.
I did compare the outer joint and the splines etc looked identical.
As for the tranny end of the axel, it was the identical axel, so I don't think that would do much.
I did replace the axel seal on the driver's side, and I have the car apart and I see that the new seal is bit chewed up (must have happened when I was putting in the new axel? But I am not sure if that would do much.
Does anyone know what damaged inner cv joint acts like? I know that outer joint will click, but I am wondering if I somehow damaged the inner CV joint?
I have spent way too much time and new parts to let this car go... Thanks again for the help,
#8
Originally Posted by Pyrophilus
Oh I see what you mean.
I re-used the old axel, just replaced the outer CV joint with a brand-new one and new boots. I basically followed Matt Blehm's article, except instead of cleaning out the outerjoint, I got new ones.
I did compare the outer joint and the splines etc looked identical.
As for the tranny end of the axel, it was the identical axel, so I don't think that would do much.
I did replace the axel seal on the driver's side, and I have the car apart and I see that the new seal is bit chewed up (must have happened when I was putting in the new axel? But I am not sure if that would do much.
Does anyone know what damaged inner cv joint acts like? I know that outer joint will click, but I am wondering if I somehow damaged the inner CV joint?
I have spent way too much time and new parts to let this car go... Thanks again for the help,
I re-used the old axel, just replaced the outer CV joint with a brand-new one and new boots. I basically followed Matt Blehm's article, except instead of cleaning out the outerjoint, I got new ones.
I did compare the outer joint and the splines etc looked identical.
As for the tranny end of the axel, it was the identical axel, so I don't think that would do much.
I did replace the axel seal on the driver's side, and I have the car apart and I see that the new seal is bit chewed up (must have happened when I was putting in the new axel? But I am not sure if that would do much.
Does anyone know what damaged inner cv joint acts like? I know that outer joint will click, but I am wondering if I somehow damaged the inner CV joint?
I have spent way too much time and new parts to let this car go... Thanks again for the help,
#9
I understand what you guys mean when Jeff said "right axel". I put the new outer CV joint next to the old, oem outer joint, and they looked same, length of the outer shaft, number of splines, etc.
But from Jeff's and nelledge's reply, I am wondering if I screwed up when I tried to replace the driver's side axel seal... I had a hell of a time pulling the old one out, and even hellisher time trying to put the new one in (didn't freeze the seal which I guess could have helped).
Perhaps it's not seated in all the way? then I guess it would keep the end of the axel from going all the way into the tranny? But I thought it was okay because when put the rebuilt axel in, I tugged at it to see if it seemed seated, and it didn't pull out easily...
I wanna let you know that it's people in this forum (Jeff, Matt, DanNY just to name a few) that gives folks like me the nerve to work on our cars (before the axel problem, I have successfully done alot of work: strtus all 4 corners, brake jobs, and interior electrical). Thank you.
But from Jeff's and nelledge's reply, I am wondering if I screwed up when I tried to replace the driver's side axel seal... I had a hell of a time pulling the old one out, and even hellisher time trying to put the new one in (didn't freeze the seal which I guess could have helped).
Perhaps it's not seated in all the way? then I guess it would keep the end of the axel from going all the way into the tranny? But I thought it was okay because when put the rebuilt axel in, I tugged at it to see if it seemed seated, and it didn't pull out easily...
I wanna let you know that it's people in this forum (Jeff, Matt, DanNY just to name a few) that gives folks like me the nerve to work on our cars (before the axel problem, I have successfully done alot of work: strtus all 4 corners, brake jobs, and interior electrical). Thank you.
#10
I'm in the same boat as u bud. I've replaced just about all the same stuff except the struts. I put in the left side axle and am 100% sure it was the right one. The passenger side axle is slightly longer if i remember which is why i checked so much. The only thing I really have left to replace is the steering gear like u said. It sucks cause i wont let anyone else drive it now cause it pulls so much. Also, when the wheel pulls really hard to the right i will sumtimes swerve really hard left and it seems to pull watever is loose back in a little bit so it doesnt pull so harshly.
#13
Jeff we need a sticky on this! I had this problem one time before too. Its the wrong axle! I know I had this problem with napa and advanced axels. I did it three time before I went with a carquest axel. Not sure if they have the wrong part# or what.
#14
Does the FSM tell you to not pull on the axel?
I believe that on-line CV faq's and chilton/haynes manuals say, "the passenger side axel is simply pulled out". Let me tell you, the word "simply" has no business being in that sentence...
Perhaps this means that I should not go get a new axel for the driver's side. I cannot imagine what I would do if this didn't solve it, although I am 90% sure it has something to do with the axel, because I did my repairs in steps with test drives inbetween.
citadel07, I know that struts are NOT the problem of the wobbling (or the torque steer).
I replaced all four struts and after test drive, perfect.
Replaced driver's side CV joint and boot, and had to pull the axel to do it, and WHAM, the steering problem began afterwards. Thinking that it might just be out of alignment,
I went ahead and did both control arms and ball joints,
passenger side CV joint (which was done correctly).
I even replaced the driver's side axel seal...
Anyway citadel07, hold on the strut replacement because I know that is definitely what isn't causing our problems.
I believe that on-line CV faq's and chilton/haynes manuals say, "the passenger side axel is simply pulled out". Let me tell you, the word "simply" has no business being in that sentence...
Perhaps this means that I should not go get a new axel for the driver's side. I cannot imagine what I would do if this didn't solve it, although I am 90% sure it has something to do with the axel, because I did my repairs in steps with test drives inbetween.
citadel07, I know that struts are NOT the problem of the wobbling (or the torque steer).
I replaced all four struts and after test drive, perfect.
Replaced driver's side CV joint and boot, and had to pull the axel to do it, and WHAM, the steering problem began afterwards. Thinking that it might just be out of alignment,
I went ahead and did both control arms and ball joints,
passenger side CV joint (which was done correctly).
I even replaced the driver's side axel seal...
Anyway citadel07, hold on the strut replacement because I know that is definitely what isn't causing our problems.
#15
The common accepted method for both mechanics and technicians is to "pull" the axle out of the case. It may require some prying to facilitate, but I haven't heard of damage being done to the axle by pulling. Unless, of course, the axle needed to be replaced.
Take a breath. Make a checklist. Go through it.... twice. Verify the part # with another distributor and distributor itself, if possible. Measure spindle length on axle. Make sure axle is seated correctly. Check if spindle nut is seated properly. Visually inspect entire suspension. Perhaps there is something you overlooked. Happens all the time to me. Good luck
Take a breath. Make a checklist. Go through it.... twice. Verify the part # with another distributor and distributor itself, if possible. Measure spindle length on axle. Make sure axle is seated correctly. Check if spindle nut is seated properly. Visually inspect entire suspension. Perhaps there is something you overlooked. Happens all the time to me. Good luck
#16
Just one more question guys,
If it is indeed improperly seated axel (I take it that means the transmission end of the axel is not fully inserted?), that is causing my abnormal torque steer, is it dangerous or damaging (to the tranny) to drive this car in this condition? I don't care about the axel, I think I'll end up replacing the whole thing.
As for the wrong part, I can't find the photo I took of the two outer joints, but they looked IDENTICAL as in length of ot he outer shaft and number of splines, etc.
The axel and inner CV joint were the re-used, so I assume that the only problem might be that I didn't properly seat the new axel seal on the driver's side.
One question about that. Does anyone have a good idea on how I could seat driver's side axel seal? the hole is recessed into the tranny case, so I really can't get anything in there, and I tried to put the old seal on top, but couldn't manage to get it in, so I used a piece of round wood piece to drive it in. Maybe I damaged it, or the seal did not fully go in?
Anyway, I'll report on progress when I get the new seal in. Thanks again for all your helps,
-Sage
If it is indeed improperly seated axel (I take it that means the transmission end of the axel is not fully inserted?), that is causing my abnormal torque steer, is it dangerous or damaging (to the tranny) to drive this car in this condition? I don't care about the axel, I think I'll end up replacing the whole thing.
As for the wrong part, I can't find the photo I took of the two outer joints, but they looked IDENTICAL as in length of ot he outer shaft and number of splines, etc.
The axel and inner CV joint were the re-used, so I assume that the only problem might be that I didn't properly seat the new axel seal on the driver's side.
One question about that. Does anyone have a good idea on how I could seat driver's side axel seal? the hole is recessed into the tranny case, so I really can't get anything in there, and I tried to put the old seal on top, but couldn't manage to get it in, so I used a piece of round wood piece to drive it in. Maybe I damaged it, or the seal did not fully go in?
Anyway, I'll report on progress when I get the new seal in. Thanks again for all your helps,
-Sage
#19
buy my axle where?
ehhh not really an option. besides the fact that i took the one that fit correctly back for the core and now i'm stuck with one for a GXE, i cant exactly have it rebuilt. i need to just know where other people got the correct one cause i just picked up my 2nd one from autozone tonite and they ****ed up again. someone mentioned carquest?
#21
yea its already in the works.....brother is taking it in for me since i'm at work. it'll be a special order now which is great cause my car is on stands now. thanks for all the advice...i'll post back here with the part number for the right axle from autozone when i get it for anyone who might need it...
#24
Originally Posted by internetautomar
go back to the store and demand your core back!
and make sure you get the one for DOHC W/VLSD W/ABS
and make sure you get the one for DOHC W/VLSD W/ABS
#25
yea dont worry guys i wont be taken for sumthin as stupid as this. they're not being asses about it or anything....they're just incompetent. Gave them the specific part number from their site and i'm gettin it in in 2-3 days hopefully on special order..
#26
well for anyone who might have this problem it was the wrong axle in there. Had a gxe in there but anywayz dont waste your time going cheap to autozone or sumthin they will give u anything to put in there. go straight to carquest or sumwhere at least decent and avoid the whole mess.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lakersallday24
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
13
03-20-2024 11:22 AM
Lakersallday24
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
10
06-16-2019 01:35 AM
yat70458
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
2
08-03-2015 01:16 PM