TheGreat

Okay my ecu is gicing me these codes 12, 34, 51, 23, 45.

12 is the air flow meter
34 Knock sensor
51 fuel injector circuit open
23 Idle switch
45 Injector fuel leak

okay what would make my car not start I just need to make it run again please help

90pearlSE

Well, if the fuel injector circuit is open, then the injectors don't inject and there's nothing to combust. That would definately make it hard to start.....

TheGreat

okay what do I do to close the circuit I've been workin on this car for 3 months now and it was running fine now it just stopped so any help is great help thanks

subs1000w

check to make sure none of the injector wires are grounded out

Wiking

Your story is so vague, that getting helicopter fly would be easier to remote diag. Tell the whole story, start from your engine model, waht happened, what is now, noises, measured voltages...

At the moment forget the ECU. Do the basic, spark, gas, air:

- Spark present [take a spare plug, attatch and ground it, crank: see spark?
- Ign on, loosen gas tube: if starts to leak, u know if some pressurre is on... careful.
- listen to injector click: they do produce noise, use screwdriver as a stetoschope

Next step is deeper depending on results, ...check all sensors

Go through the stickies, I've some trouble spots illustrated on my page.

TheGreat

okay I have a 1991 nissan maxima vg30e sohc okay I started my car it started fine left for work drove approx 3 miles everything working fine I crossed the railroad tracks and the car died so I put it into nutral tryed to start it would'nt start it would turn over just would'nt start so I towed it home my dad told me it was the fuel pump so I changed the fuel pump and nothing happend all it does now is turn over but won't start the only odd noise is a clicking under neath the hood close to the fire wall

Wiking

"died"
- expand this: how, noises? sputtering, drop dead, loss pwr first...

Drop dead: you lost some electrical device and/or connection. Ign key gives ECU +12V signal of its position. Worn ign sw may drop that, and ECU 'drops dead'.

Next give answers to the tests:

At the moment forget the ECU. Do the basic, spark, gas, air:

- Spark present [take a spare plug, attatch and ground it, crank: see spark?
- Ign on, loosen gas tube: if starts to leak, u know if some presure is on... careful.
- listen to injector click: they do produce noise, use screwdriver as a stetoschope. DO THEY click, individually, all?

Next step is deeper depending on results, ...check all sensors

Go through the stickies, I've some trouble spots illustrated on my page.
Today 09:06 AM

TheGreat

okay yea it just droped dead but I still had electrical power but it was weird one sec i would have power the next no electrical power okay I checked for spark and yes I have spark also when I was out there checking that I turned the key over trying to start it and it made a screeching sound so I stoped waited and the tryed again and it turned over but still would'nt start also what would be the closest gas line to use to check pressure also I don't understand about the injectors

Wiking

"would have power the next no electrical power"
- There's something loose, cut or oxidized. Check groundings, and justabout all cablings for lose oxidized connections. What u now need is a systemical search, clean through all wirings. (see also http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/10)

"just droped dead but I still had electrical power"
- figure out where the +12V electrical power is, where not: dash lights do not ensure that spark is present. Must check from end of spark wire with a plug or with timing light. IS THE SPARK now present?
- ECU controls everything, complicatin troubleshooting.

- Fuel pressure should be metered with a gauge. Just to give idea if any pressure is present, one could -carefully- loosen the fuel filter and see if it starts to squirt. Splashing gas around is not ? dangerous -if no sparks, cigarettes around.

- Each injection makes a click. Take long screwdriver, place it on injector, put ear on handle, crank. If it clicks, it means injector nozzle mechanically moves ok up to a point, also that ECU is functionally giving electrical pulses to it (=electronics function up to a point, ign key sw ok etc.)

- Check out distributor tachometer with a digital multimeter or scope, that can kill an engine, most other sensors individually cannot but cause errant run.

- BTW. Its all mental: figure out what one single thing can kill, which do (if dead) only harm: single injector, spark, mose sensors cannot kill, ECU (whatelse?) can.

Crap chilton Online manual:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/Ui...&Parameters=004

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I'd start by checking the resistance on the injectors.
chances are one or more is dead, and they may have caused such severe problems as to set off the knock code (too lean) and the MAF (backfire at some point?)
if you can lay your hands on a "Noid" light you can also check to be sure that the injector id getting the signal to pulse from the ECM.

TheGreat

where can I get a noid light at and if I do what am I supposed to do with it also how do I check the resistance in the injectors?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-3054C.html

you measure it with an ohm meter across the terminals

maximagxe90

Hi,

that clicking sound is coming from your starter,

if there is no power to the battery then the starter will make that noises,

i experience that same problem as you,

my alternator was gone so when i try to start the car, it would turn over but not run because there was not power in the battery,

so i had to get a jump from somebody in order for the car to run,

if i try to drive the car the car would stop,

so check to make sure your alternator and battery is ok in order for the car to run,

those are the most important compontant of the system,

TheGreat

WELL its was a real dumb problem and now its fixed all it was just the rotor some how the screw holding it in place came lose and fell out causing it to throw the fireing time off and also I have a fuel injector that is bad thank god I got friends at nissan got 6 new injectors for 75 dollars

lalo

75 dollars for 6 injectors so how much would shiping for Houston be??

sara92max

I`ll give 85.00 for`em

TheGreat

sorry they go in my car on monday

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

theft is wrong no matter how much you save

TheGreat

its not theft when they are paid for and nissan is putting them in for me I don't call that theft only thing I need now is a new hood for my car then I will be happy anyone know where I can get a hood for a good deal

Magnifico

may be wrong but damn i wouldnt mind being wrong for 12 dollar injectors shiiiiit thats too good

Wiking

True: if you get six with price of HALF! (nissanprice?), youre sure somebody drives (happily?) with her car with old injectors thinking she's got new...

Now is that nice? Here we see I-SCREAM! example why I'll never let nissan or whatever serviceman under my hood without surveillance.

Just yesterday was wondering my opel brakes, they really should be fine: happens the serviceman who changed the rubbers four years ago, did (lazily) not use any brake 'grease', and so now they stick as it has been standing under snow because of maxima... And there went my 'trusted' mech... Now is there even one good on this planet?

[I am not speaking of errors, I am veery capable of stupidity, but intentional negligence, thievery]

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Provide a reciept mark paid for the injectors from the dealer and I'll gladly delete that post.
otherwise there was a theft somewhere along the way and that is not right no matter how much you save or think you're saving.
of course now the very real possibilty of you missunderstanding them also exists