Anybody have modded maximas that have some rust or plenty of dents/ scratches?
Anybody have modded maximas that have some rust or plenty of dents/ scratches?
Well, I have a white 1993 maxima. All good. nice engine, still running stron. But the bottom doory has a bit of rust, and on the door under the mirror. I fixed it with a bottle of spray paint but, It came back.(I knew that it'll come back but wanted it to look better.) My spoiler isn't sticking correctly as well. I love the car and I love how it has so much power and the interior is black with leather and like new. the rust came as we were in illinois with so much snow and salt. Btw, I want to mod it but don't want to seem like one of those idiots with a crappy body but be lowerd , new wheels, clear corners, and exhaust. What do you think? Should I do this? BTW, I'm not going to spend $1000+ for a paint job. just a poor college student.
If you are not willing to spend $1000+ to ge tthe body fixed correctly and rather spend the money on mods liek wheels and lowering springs theny ou might as well sell the car.That small spot of rust is goign to turn into a hole and then it will be harder to fix.
Personaly I think modding a car and not spending the money on necessary repairs is like buying a turbo kit for a blown motor. only my 2 cents thgouh
BJ White
Personaly I think modding a car and not spending the money on necessary repairs is like buying a turbo kit for a blown motor. only my 2 cents thgouh

BJ White
once you have rust the chances of eliminating all of it are 0.
Unless you want to cut and weld, at which point you're better off starting with a better body.
The car I'm selling didn't have ANY rust I could find.
Unless you want to cut and weld, at which point you're better off starting with a better body.
The car I'm selling didn't have ANY rust I could find.
As was stated, definately get the rust fixed. If it's minor, you can probably get away with just grinding it down, then primer and paint it. I agree with you on the full paint job though. If it were me, I would be paranoid with a fresh paint job, and any small scratch or ding would really get to me. My 15 foot paint job is fine with me right now, it's just one less thing to worry about.
I have a few spots on my 92 gxe and i'm just going to get some color match and repair those spots rather then paint the whole car. If i could afford i would get the whole car shot, but i can't, so i'll spenda $100 and fix it up. after a clear coat, some wetsanding and polishing you wouldn't be able to see it anyway. White will be easy to hide. On a side note does anyone know the color code so he could get the right white ( boy does that sound wierd reading that) and for my 92. The color is sort of a charcol grey/gunmetal color.
Cheers
Cliff
Cheers
Cliff
Originally Posted by Cruzr
White will be easy to hide.
the code is 326 if its super white (plain bright white) or CH0 if its pearl white (oatmeal color).
KH2 for the charcoal pearl (grey) color.
for future reference the color code is on the metal plate on the firewall in the engine compartment.
FYI... there are several shades to "Aztec Red"...
my Maxima and 240 are both Axtec red, but they have different paint codes on the firewall. the Max is HJ2 I believe, and the 240 is HJ4.. or something like that. one ends in 2, the other 4.
my Maxima and 240 are both Axtec red, but they have different paint codes on the firewall. the Max is HJ2 I believe, and the 240 is HJ4.. or something like that. one ends in 2, the other 4.
Originally Posted by Brad92SE
. . . My 15 foot paint job is fine with me right now, it's just one less thing to worry about.
quite a bit of rust, broken grill, misaligned headlights... but i still turbocharged it. makes it a nice sleeper... 
i need to get some body work done to it pretty badly. i really need to get it in for the recall because i'm pretty sure its rusting back there...

i need to get some body work done to it pretty badly. i really need to get it in for the recall because i'm pretty sure its rusting back there...
So MACCO just sucks at the painting process or is it thier paint??
even if I take my own paint (KH2). and pay for extra clear coats their workmanship sucks? (they dont fix dents and digs properly?) Because my car needs a serious paint job, and I dont know any one in town that would do a quality paint job.
Their comercials state they leave a seemless repair/paint job?.....seemless...
If i had to rate my paint job it would be 30ft one eye closed squinting paint job.
even if I take my own paint (KH2). and pay for extra clear coats their workmanship sucks? (they dont fix dents and digs properly?) Because my car needs a serious paint job, and I dont know any one in town that would do a quality paint job.
Their comercials state they leave a seemless repair/paint job?.....seemless...
If i had to rate my paint job it would be 30ft one eye closed squinting paint job.
Your car has low mileage and the coveted 5-speed. I would definitely try to keep the car if you can.
Is the rust only on the door? You could probably find a new door at a junkyard and then save up the money to have it painted. If you do all of the prep work yourself, it shouldn't be that much money, maybe $300-$500. A good shop can color match.
As for the spoiler, you can get an aftermarket one for about $100 on ebay, but painting it can be a few hundred more. Or, you could go the spoilerless route. Either take off the spoiler and fill the holes (still have to repaint that) or buy a GXE trunk from a car the same color and swap out the tail lights.
When you have good weather or if you have a garage, I would go over the underside of the car with a fine tooth comb and try to scrape/grind any rust you have under there. The spot you can see usually is just a hint of what is underneath the car. Hopefully, you won't have any really bad spots. You can buy spray on undercoating and I would use that once you grind off any of the other rust.
My first car was a 1972 Datsun 510 that was in pretty sorry shape. It sat in a backyard for 4-5 years with a bad tranny before I got it for $200. After putting in a new tranny, my uncle and I took the whole thing apart and ground down all of the rust (mostly surface rust, luckily). We sprayed rattle can undercoating on it and then he filled the door dings (bondo) and repainted the car. We did hours of prep work, mostly grinding, sanding and scraping, along with masking stuff off to paint it. The whole thing cost me under $200 and the car looked awesome, minus a few dirt flecks and a couple of small runs because we had to paint it outside. The labor was several nights and a full weekend, though. What I am saying is, all is not lost with your car as long as you are willing to put in some work.
Is the rust only on the door? You could probably find a new door at a junkyard and then save up the money to have it painted. If you do all of the prep work yourself, it shouldn't be that much money, maybe $300-$500. A good shop can color match.
As for the spoiler, you can get an aftermarket one for about $100 on ebay, but painting it can be a few hundred more. Or, you could go the spoilerless route. Either take off the spoiler and fill the holes (still have to repaint that) or buy a GXE trunk from a car the same color and swap out the tail lights.
When you have good weather or if you have a garage, I would go over the underside of the car with a fine tooth comb and try to scrape/grind any rust you have under there. The spot you can see usually is just a hint of what is underneath the car. Hopefully, you won't have any really bad spots. You can buy spray on undercoating and I would use that once you grind off any of the other rust.
My first car was a 1972 Datsun 510 that was in pretty sorry shape. It sat in a backyard for 4-5 years with a bad tranny before I got it for $200. After putting in a new tranny, my uncle and I took the whole thing apart and ground down all of the rust (mostly surface rust, luckily). We sprayed rattle can undercoating on it and then he filled the door dings (bondo) and repainted the car. We did hours of prep work, mostly grinding, sanding and scraping, along with masking stuff off to paint it. The whole thing cost me under $200 and the car looked awesome, minus a few dirt flecks and a couple of small runs because we had to paint it outside. The labor was several nights and a full weekend, though. What I am saying is, all is not lost with your car as long as you are willing to put in some work.
If you think yr max is rustfree, check the rear wheel wells behind the C pillar and near the backrest of the rear seat. Found some advanced cancer there on my car that looks totally rustfree from the outside and underside.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MAXSE5SPD
Other For Sale/Wanted
2
Aug 23, 2015 12:06 PM




