shock/strut question
shock/strut question
I drive a 92 SE. It handles like crap, lots of what i guess to be body roll/pitch. Basicly when going around curves it feels as though i could easily loose control of the car, dosn't feel stable, even when driving at a moderate speed. Took it to the local Nissan dealership and they said i need new struts, "all the fluid is gone". So here's the question(s). Shock, Strut, are they the same thing? I want new ones but i dont know exactly where is the best place to get them, and which ones to get. I understand 'gas' filled are better than 'fluid' filled. I want some that will not only restore the orginal handling, but go slightly better. i'm not saying i want to spend a ton of money and buy racing autocross stuff, i just want some decent ones and i dont want to buy them from Nissan. So please help me understand what to get and where. THANKS
Its shocking where this line is drawn: strut-shock...
Google: 50-80$ depending where u buy. I did use nissan bluebirds shock cartridges at rear because ½ price here, (needs one extra spacer), stanzas cartridges will work also.
On cold days gas shocks work better from beginning.
Google: 50-80$ depending where u buy. I did use nissan bluebirds shock cartridges at rear because ½ price here, (needs one extra spacer), stanzas cartridges will work also.
On cold days gas shocks work better from beginning.
all struts have some oil in them.
and for just a set of stock replacements I'd suggest KYBs, which I sell at a reasonable price.
they will be better than stock in terms of ride , handling and braking.
Shocks and struts perform the same function, but they are not the same thing. however they are used interchangably
and for just a set of stock replacements I'd suggest KYBs, which I sell at a reasonable price.
they will be better than stock in terms of ride , handling and braking.
Shocks and struts perform the same function, but they are not the same thing. however they are used interchangably
KYB replacements are usually the choice for low cost, mild upgrades if you don't want "normal" replacement shock absorbers. Check internetautomar's page for some prices and options.
The whole assemblies are "struts", and the thingies inside them are still "shocks" (shock absorbers).
The whole assemblies are "struts", and the thingies inside them are still "shocks" (shock absorbers).
I would agree so far with the rest about the kyb.....I suggest replacing your strut mounts, and dust boots too...Also you may want to think about a new set of springs. They are only around 200.00 and will help you out with the body roll, nose dives...just dont get an extreme drop with kybs.
Of course the best setup we can buy are konis,you'll pay out the nose but I think they are well worth it.
Of course the best setup we can buy are konis,you'll pay out the nose but I think they are well worth it.
My struts were worn completely out and never affected how the car steered..did they check the tire rod ends??? I replaced my struts and I didnt feel any difference in how the car handled.Oh and your struts are your shocks..they are mounted inside the coil springs.
Originally Posted by Governor
My struts were worn completely out and never affected how the car steered..did they check the tire rod ends??? I replaced my struts and I didnt feel any difference in how the car handled.Oh and your struts are your shocks..they are mounted inside the coil springs.
And I have a two stroke engine maxima...
Originally Posted by Wiking
And I have a two stroke engine maxima...
actually I was refering to holding the strut up right and compressing the strut and letting it go back up (pull it back up if neccessary) a few times until it comes back up fully by itself.
when struts are stocked they are normally stocked on their side so some fluid will go past the piston you need to get all the fluid back on the side it belongs, hence the priming I'm refering too.
and on the rears you need to add fluid to the housing where the cartridge goes.
when struts are stocked they are normally stocked on their side so some fluid will go past the piston you need to get all the fluid back on the side it belongs, hence the priming I'm refering too.
and on the rears you need to add fluid to the housing where the cartridge goes.
Originally Posted by internetautomar
actually I was refering to holding the strut up right and compressing the strut and letting it go back up (pull it back up if neccessary) a few times until it comes back up fully by itself.
when struts are stocked they are normally stocked on their side so some fluid will go past the piston you need to get all the fluid back on the side it belongs, hence the priming I'm refering too.
and on the rears you need to add fluid to the housing where the cartridge goes.
when struts are stocked they are normally stocked on their side so some fluid will go past the piston you need to get all the fluid back on the side it belongs, hence the priming I'm refering too.
and on the rears you need to add fluid to the housing where the cartridge goes.
I bet most shops install them dry, why bother hehe? Nobody knows the difference, there proof stands on this page... I had to fight (?) once I went to a shop for installation: "weelll, we have never added oil..." - I had to insist: ...on my car u do!
Originally Posted by internetautomar
actually I was refering to holding the strut up right and compressing the strut and letting it go back up (pull it back up if neccessary) a few times until it comes back up fully by itself.
when struts are stocked they are normally stocked on their side so some fluid will go past the piston you need to get all the fluid back on the side it belongs, hence the priming I'm refering too.
and on the rears you need to add fluid to the housing where the cartridge goes.
when struts are stocked they are normally stocked on their side so some fluid will go past the piston you need to get all the fluid back on the side it belongs, hence the priming I'm refering too.
and on the rears you need to add fluid to the housing where the cartridge goes.
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