i followed a tutorial on CraigB's site on by-passing non-bose amp for the rear speakers..
http://www.geocities.com/bracecraig/maxima/stereo.html

I connected the
Yellow L+
Yel/Grn L-
Green R+
Lg Orange R-
wires to my JL Audio 6*9 speakers, but the sound is REALLY distorted like listening to AM radio that isn't tuned in correctly.. but the front speakers sounds good. doesn't these wires come directly from my deck speaker outs? i don't think it's my deck giving out crappy sound on the rear channel only..

my deck pushes 200W total, so 50W per channel. these speakers are rated at 60W RMS power handling.. plz help...

edit: i took the speakers inside and hooked it up to a stereo and they sounded good. so the speakers are all right too. am i connecting something wrong?

 

your +/- are crossed or there's a loose connection somewhere.

 

hmm.. i thought it was polarity too, but i checked it many times to make sure it was correct... and the connections are soldered together

 

unfortunately, your speakers are really seeing about 20 watts, if that. 50 watts per channel is max, but you won't see that power from your head unit. i'd go back and double check all the connections to make sure they're secure.

btw, you might want to check out the audio forum.

 

eh, my premier 50x4 makes my 5 year old jbl 6x9's scream and pound. but yeah, double check your connections. and what are you doing soldering the wires to your terminals? probably just a bad joint on 1 or 2, i'd desolder those and crimp the proper connectors on each wire. good luck.

 

Is is me or do aftermarket speakers dont fit to well in the back window. I can get my 4x6s in there if i stick them below the panel the panel sticks up if i put them though the hole in the panel then they stick up like 1-2inches. Anyone have tips on getting aftermarket speakers to fit better in the back. I looked a craigs thing but it doesnt make sense how his are put in to me.

 

yeah, but if you look in the manual, it's putting out RMS power that's a lot lower than 50x4. My kenwood puts out 22 watts a channel continuous, 50 max.

 

damn, turnes out Yel/Grn L- Green R+ Lg Orange R- aren't the correct colors.. i had to pull out my head unit to check the color of the wires vs. pin outs to find out which one was which... so the signal problem is solved..

the new problem is, i don't think my head unit is getting enuf power fed to it... i put "Loud" mode on and the lights in the car were dimming with the beat.. and the mp3 would skip i think because of unstable power.

 

charge your battery, a low amt of current isn't going to make your cd skip

 

The rear speakers are supposed to be 6x9, not 4x6. If you had the Bose system originally, they should fit perfectly. If you don't have the Bose, I think 6.5s fit in the back.

 

Yep. I just ripped out those Bose 6x9 bracket and put in 6.5" component set back there.

 

u sure? the battery is less than 1 year old... it's an mp3 CD btw....

 

his alternator should keep it charged when the engine's on...taking into consideration its still good.

 

all is good when the loud mode is off.. but when i turn it on, it drinks a LOT of current from the battery... and the disc skips. so i have to keep loud off for now.

battery and alternator is all good, both were changed 1 or less than 1 year ago..

 

hi.. putting LOUD on.. could be a problem on your deck.. i strongly think that it is the manufacturer defect on the head unit.. other wise, it shouldn't skip.. perhaps it could be the lens? does the mp3 skip all the time even when it's not on LOUD? if so.. it is the system itself..

 

Maybe when you use the loud function it increases the bass and your stereo might not have that great a anti-skip mechanism and at the same time the stereo draws too much current from the electrical system, possibly due to incorrect polarity.

 

try using regular CDs or CD-Rs instead of MP3 CDs. I used to have that problem, then as soon as I played CDs or CD-Rs, I wouldn't get anymore skipping

 

doesn't make any sense why putting it to 'loud' would cause the cd to skip. i can rattle the hell out of my car with my ported sub, and everything still plays fine. how good is the connection for the power on the head unit?